Airsoft Canada - View Single Post - Year Of The GBBR....or just a stinky smell that's passing through...

m102404 · September 4th, 2009, 10:12

Question. Has anyone had any issues with shaking their clone aimpoints/RDS to death with these GBBRs?

So I've been fiddling with the WE AWSS for the past week or so...and here's a couple of observations.

1. Propane torch makes short work out of the glue/paint/red-loctite that they use here and there.

2. Soft jaw (UHMW) pliers are too "slippery" to grab the nozzle rod. Cotton rag and regular channel locks (with fine "teeth" if possible) works fine. Kill the loctite first and it comes off like butter.

3. This thing really shakes after 30-40 mags....tighten and loctite anything you don't want falling off. I "lost" full auto and semi was kind of wonky...the screw holding the nozzle assembly to the carrier had lossened and was causing the nozzle to go off track.

4. The forward assist button flying off is retarded (I've counted myself extremely luck to have found it and the spring all 3 times)...I've put a touch of CA glue in the button to see if that holds better. If it doesn't I'm going to cross drill and pin it.

5. The AOE of the bolt release arm and the little nub on the magazine doesn't seem right. Too square/flat an angle so bolt catch doesn't always engage. Probably a good thing since unless the arm is made out of steel it's going to break after a while from the forces.

6. It's really hard to clean out chopped bb fragments. A couple of q-tips in the kit bag are a must. So is a cleaning rod. The worst jams I've had have been to wedge a double feed bb beside the nozzle, jammed between the nozzle and the brass cylinder. Small pick/screwdriver to convince it to come out is a must.

7. Hopup assembly is simple. Simple in that a cromagnon can't break it. Simple, not elegant, but works...like an AK. However, I'm not sure how effective it is. Getting a couple of spare hopup rubber "rings" is on the list of to-dos.

8. Slippery grease on the bearing surfaces is great. Superlube has worked like a charm. A little more oil in the gas is not a bad thing. If your gas is properly lubed, the silicone oil will disperse nicely all over the internals of the hammer/selector assemblies (not sure if it's getting into the knocker assembly...but it looks fine so far).

9. "regular" AEG delta rings/RAS collar threads do not fit right out of the box. However...rethreading mine with a MadBull Tool was really easy (unlike the last G&P body I tried to do). With cutting fluid, it's just a minute or 5 worth of work.

- also...my magpul CRT stock went on the stock stock tube just fine. The CRT endcap plug fit fine. There's a little play...but not much.

10. The front sight cross pin spacing is further apart than "regular" AEG barrels.

11. The threading OD of the barrel is just a bit bigger than the ID hole of a KA flash hider ring (the nice shiney collar that sits behind a flash hider). Some AEG flashhiders are "tight" to get on. TM Tracer V2 and MB Firepig's work.

12. A 3.74mm brass spacer (turned OD to just a bit smaller than the floating valve diameter), threaded (M3...I think, I'll have to check) onto the rod in the nozzle will reduce the FPS with 0.2g to 347fps. This pushed the nozzle forward so that the front flange that holds the valve o-ring is just behind the front lip of the nozzle body cutout. AT LEAST IT DID ON MINE. I made another one for the spare valve. It was probably just a bit bigger/longer than the other one and it shot 220fps with intermittent failure to fire. SO...I have a bad feeling that there's enough "slop" in things that there isn't a magic size that can be simply dropped into any nozzle...every nozzle will have to be tuned individually. That said...with the right tools it's not hard. The WE SCAR NPAS system looks nice...but I wonder how so many thin/treaded/joined parts are going to hold up long term. It seems easy to dial in/out to the extremes...I wonder how easy it is to dial to a specific setting and have it stay there. Loctite is key.

* that was all at 21c in my workshop...I haven't cranked up the space heater yet...I'll do that later.

13. The stock mag valves suck ass. I've swapped out 3/5 so far. One with a KJW 226 mag valve and 2 others with MB 40mm replacement fill valves. They seem to fill better. I suspect that the spring inside the stock valve is not moving free enough in the valve assembly to close the valve stem reliably when you remove the fill nozzle. No leaks from the rest of the mag yet...but I lubed up (overly so) and let them sit with gas when I first got them (they were dry as a bone). The knocker valves were sticky too...but lubing them specifically and working them got them moving freely.

Neat little thing...still puts a smile on my face shooting it so I'll keep it.

September 4th, 2009, 10:12	#66
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	Question. Has anyone had any issues with shaking their clone aimpoints/RDS to death with these GBBRs? So I've been fiddling with the WE AWSS for the past week or so...and here's a couple of observations. 1. Propane torch makes short work out of the glue/paint/red-loctite that they use here and there. 2. Soft jaw (UHMW) pliers are too "slippery" to grab the nozzle rod. Cotton rag and regular channel locks (with fine "teeth" if possible) works fine. Kill the loctite first and it comes off like butter. 3. This thing really shakes after 30-40 mags....tighten and loctite anything you don't want falling off. I "lost" full auto and semi was kind of wonky...the screw holding the nozzle assembly to the carrier had lossened and was causing the nozzle to go off track. 4. The forward assist button flying off is retarded (I've counted myself extremely luck to have found it and the spring all 3 times)...I've put a touch of CA glue in the button to see if that holds better. If it doesn't I'm going to cross drill and pin it. 5. The AOE of the bolt release arm and the little nub on the magazine doesn't seem right. Too square/flat an angle so bolt catch doesn't always engage. Probably a good thing since unless the arm is made out of steel it's going to break after a while from the forces. 6. It's really hard to clean out chopped bb fragments. A couple of q-tips in the kit bag are a must. So is a cleaning rod. The worst jams I've had have been to wedge a double feed bb beside the nozzle, jammed between the nozzle and the brass cylinder. Small pick/screwdriver to convince it to come out is a must. 7. Hopup assembly is simple. Simple in that a cromagnon can't break it. Simple, not elegant, but works...like an AK. However, I'm not sure how effective it is. Getting a couple of spare hopup rubber "rings" is on the list of to-dos. 8. Slippery grease on the bearing surfaces is great. Superlube has worked like a charm. A little more oil in the gas is not a bad thing. If your gas is properly lubed, the silicone oil will disperse nicely all over the internals of the hammer/selector assemblies (not sure if it's getting into the knocker assembly...but it looks fine so far). 9. "regular" AEG delta rings/RAS collar threads do not fit right out of the box. However...rethreading mine with a MadBull Tool was really easy (unlike the last G&P body I tried to do). With cutting fluid, it's just a minute or 5 worth of work. - also...my magpul CRT stock went on the stock stock tube just fine. The CRT endcap plug fit fine. There's a little play...but not much. 10. The front sight cross pin spacing is further apart than "regular" AEG barrels. 11. The threading OD of the barrel is just a bit bigger than the ID hole of a KA flash hider ring (the nice shiney collar that sits behind a flash hider). Some AEG flashhiders are "tight" to get on. TM Tracer V2 and MB Firepig's work. 12. A 3.74mm brass spacer (turned OD to just a bit smaller than the floating valve diameter), threaded (M3...I think, I'll have to check) onto the rod in the nozzle will reduce the FPS with 0.2g to 347fps. This pushed the nozzle forward so that the front flange that holds the valve o-ring is just behind the front lip of the nozzle body cutout. AT LEAST IT DID ON MINE. I made another one for the spare valve. It was probably just a bit bigger/longer than the other one and it shot 220fps with intermittent failure to fire. SO...I have a bad feeling that there's enough "slop" in things that there isn't a magic size that can be simply dropped into any nozzle...every nozzle will have to be tuned individually. That said...with the right tools it's not hard. The WE SCAR NPAS system looks nice...but I wonder how so many thin/treaded/joined parts are going to hold up long term. It seems easy to dial in/out to the extremes...I wonder how easy it is to dial to a specific setting and have it stay there. Loctite is key. * that was all at 21c in my workshop...I haven't cranked up the space heater yet...I'll do that later. 13. The stock mag valves suck ass. I've swapped out 3/5 so far. One with a KJW 226 mag valve and 2 others with MB 40mm replacement fill valves. They seem to fill better. I suspect that the spring inside the stock valve is not moving free enough in the valve assembly to close the valve stem reliably when you remove the fill nozzle. No leaks from the rest of the mag yet...but I lubed up (overly so) and let them sit with gas when I first got them (they were dry as a bone). The knocker valves were sticky too...but lubing them specifically and working them got them moving freely. Neat little thing...still puts a smile on my face shooting it so I'll keep it.