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WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock


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Old May 13th, 2012, 09:49   #1
e-luder's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Question WIP: Upgrading Your Tokyo Marui Glock

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Upgrading airsoft guns is a lot like playing that computer game World of Warcraft. In the game, you have to pick a tech tree or character build to learn abilities useful for the role you are planning to fill in the game. Likewise, in airsoft you have to choose which ‘tech tree’ or ‘build’ you want for your platform.

Having a ton of aftermarket parts to choose from can be daunting. I’ve received numerous requests on which part to upgrade for range, for accuracy, for power, for longevity, etc. More importantly, I’ve gotten a lot of questions on fitting.

So for the newbies out there, here is a little guide that will include everything you need know to about most of the aftermarket parts catered to the Tokyo Marui Glock 17, Glock 18c and Glock 26/Glock 26 Advance platform.

***I will keep updating this thread as i find more parts in my parts locker or purchase new ones. So i apologize in advance for all the revisions.***

DISCLAIMER: Please note that this is the culmination of hours and hours of ordering, fitting, swapping, experimenting to determine the effects of each aftermarket part, diagnosing broken Marui Glocks and fixing them accordingly, ETC. And YES, I have bought all of the parts and tried them. So take what you want from it. Please also note that this is catered to the new guys on the forum who might have a few questions about their Tokyo Marui Glocks. Veterans, please don’t flame me

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post
The Glock series of pistols have been around since 1982, created in response to an Austrian military request for a new service sidearm. The magnitude of Glock’s achievement cannot be understated - the requirements were seen as impossible, the industry heavyweights already had guns ready to go, and Glock’s factories had never produced anything more complicated than a curtain rod. But Gaston Glock’s outsider approach was exactly what the industry needed, and the Glock 17, named for the 17th patent filed by Gaston Glock, would soon become a household name. Through some excellent marketing, and sneaky strategy, Glock pistols soon became the predominant pistol used by militaries and law enforcement agencies worldwide. I highly suggest reading Paul M. Barrett’s Glock: The Rise of America’s Gun. It reads like something out of a soap opera, but it’s a fairly comprehensive account of the Glock’s (and Gaston Glock himself) rise from obscurity to the mantle it holds today.

Glock pistols come in several different sizes and calibers, all numbered by a non-sensical system that has no logic in it whatsoever. The important thing you need to know is that the overwhelming majority of Glocks come in three, double stack sizes: Full-Sized, Compact, and Sub-Compact. This will translate out in airsoft to Glock 17, Glock 19/23, and Glock 26 respectively.


A lot of people get confused when someone refers to a generation of a Glock pistol. This does not have anything to do with airsoft. Glock pistols have gone through four distinct variations.

First Generation

Introduced as part of Austrian Army contract.

Second Generation

Introduced in 1988, moved serial number from polymer to embedded steel plate, added grip checkering and serrations to grip, and minor recoil spring assembly and magazine changes.

Third Generation

Accessory rail added, thumb relief and finger grooves added, locking block has additional pinning after 1998.

Fourth Generation

Dual recoil spring, new grip texture, adjustable backstraps with smaller frame, ambidextrous magazine release.

In short, unless you have an electric pistol or spring gun, you’ll never seen the first or second generation guns in airsoft. The majority of guns will be of the third generation, while the newest guns will be from the fourth generation. Unless you’re deadset on the third generation, try and find yourself a fourth generation frame for a build. Tokyo Marui Glocks will be of the third generation by default. The adjustable grip, texture, and new magazine release are reason enough to swap over.
The Tokyo Marui Family Of Glocks:

There is three models of Glocks from Tokyo Marui: The Glock 17 (G17), Glock 18c (G18c), Glock 26 (G26). Here’s how they look like:

The Glock 17 (G17):

The Glock 17 is the most customizable of the Marui Glock pistols. This Glock version is known for its reliability and accuracy. What sets it apart from the other two Marui Glock is the standard size frame with no select fire.

The Glock 18c (G18c):

The select fire version of the Glock 17. The 18c offers a full auto function as opposed to the single, semi-auto of the Glock 17. As such, with the added select-fire function, the Glock 18c has a different internal set up. Contrary to what I’ve seen on this forum, the internals of a G17 and G18c are not 100% interchangeable. So parts you can and some parts you can’t. Externally, the Glock 18c has a ported slide and outer barrel while the Glock 17 does not.

The Glock 26 (G26) and Glock 26 Advance:

This the precursor to the other two Marui Glocks. This was the first Glock TM has ever made. The G17 is modeled after the G26a. What sets this Marui Glock apart from the other two platforms is its size. This is a compact Glock, meaning, for concealed carry, the G26 has a much smaller EVERYTHING. Some call this the “Baby Glock”.

The Glock 26 Advance is the Glock 26 beefed up to make a standard size pistol. The G26 Advance has a compensator attached with an extended under rail and lengthened magazine. The rear sights are also different from the standard Glock sights as the G26 Advance uses a Bomar style rear sight.

NOTE:[I] Some retailers sell their Glocks with a designation of which Generation Glock it is. Ie, 3rd Generation Tokyo Marui Glock 17 (or something like that). This NOT the third version of the same Tokyo Marui Glock (it’s not a revision of the product) but it’s the designation from the Glock generations of the real steel counter parts.[/I]

The Upgrades

From this point on, you have to pick an upgrade tree. That is, you have to consider how you want your Glock to function (what strengths would you like to enhance, what weaknesses would you like to improve) and what scenario you’ll be using it for. Thus, pick an upgrade tree that will maximize that specific attribute or characteristic. I can’t atone for range, accuracy or power because I don’t know which ‘tech tree’ you are going after. I can only give you options.

SO here we go…

External Upgrade Parts:

Slide (+1 durability, grants the wielder the ability to use Green Gas):

PGC: The PGC slide probably the most drop-in ready slide on the market for ALL MARUI GLOCKs. It seems to have been made with the exact same dimensions as Marui’s stock slide. It’s such a perfect fit with no sanding or modifying necessary. It is made of aluminum so it is lightweight for crisp kick but still provides good heft for weight balance distribution. The BBU drops straight in without you having to do anything but to make sure that the return nozzle spring is in place.

Shooter’s Design: Shooter’s Design offers the second most options for slide replacement. Shooter’s Design offers a Caspian slide, a custom ported slide making the slide a bit lighter, a silver and black color scheme of the original slide and so forth. The fitting on most Shooter’s Design kits, most recently, are on par with PGC Kits. The only real difference in this respect is that the Shooter’s Design slide kits tend to have more of a wobble than its PGC counterpart.

Guarder: Guarder is probably one of the most problematic slides in terms of fitting. Though having a stronger(?) 7075 aluminum material, the BBU needs some modifications to fit perfectly. On some of the slides that I’ve tested, the rear sight didn’t line up with the BBU properly and the screw was in a slight angle. This was due to the fact the slide didn’t accommodate the sides of the BBU properly. So expect to make modifications if you choose a Guarder slide.

Even with that said, it’s important to note that these slides are pretty good quality. The trades on these things are simply amazing. The TF 141 and Desert Storm slides are very well detailed and fabricated. These slides are also the most polish friendly of all the slides on the market. The CNC Machined steel slide is probably the best steel slide I’ve seen for the Glock 17 in terms of trademarks and finish.

Airsoft Surgeon: The Airsoft Surgeon slides is one of the most expensive slide kits out on the market. These are meant for the airsofter with deep pockets. The finish on their two tone slides are very well made and very well polished. Fitting wise, they are identical to the Shooter’s Design slides where you would need some lubrication for a good cycle and to get the BBU to drop in place.

BoomArms: I’ve only experimented with one of these so my perspective might be a bit ‘off’. The BoomArms slides are on par with the Airsoft Surgeon slides in terms of quality but with a more budget friendly cost. They offer a SHUEY Custom slide for the G17. And they are beautiful.

Detonator: This is the most expensive slide to date. There are three types that I used on my G17: The Bowie Tactical Hybrid slide, a Glock 22 and a Glock 34 slide. The quality on these slides are superb. Very detailed and no problems with fitting.

GunsModify Slide RMR Slide Kit- This kit comes with EVERYTHING you need to make a Salient Arms International slide with the melted optic. It has the BBU, the Trigger, the Lightweight Aluminum Blowback housing and more! It’s expensive for this reason. Quality wise, I was very happy with the way mine fit on. It wasn’t as as easy as I had hoped but it wasn’t terribly hard.

5KU: These slides are for the players with a budget (sorry). They will function as a replacement for the plastic slide but often require fitting modification to get the gun to cycle properly. Particularly, the slide guide rail is way too tight and is off by a decimeter. Thus, the slide tends to get ‘stuck’ .

Outer Barrels: (+1 Durability, Grants the wielder the ability use Green Gas and grants equal weight distribution)

NOTE: Outer Barrels come with the slide and are sold as sets.

Guarder: There are two versions of the outer barrels available from Guarder that are sold separately from the slide/barrel set: the older one piece outer barrels and the newer two piece steel outer barrel and chamber combination where the barrel is screwed on to the chamber. Both are available in both aluminum and steel materials. Due note that the steel version of the new version is much heavier and requires much more time to break in. Also, Guarder does limited runs for screw barrels in silver for the G17. Most Guarder screw barrels are black with limited runs in stainless steel versions.

The barrel that comes with the slide set is made of aluminum. And should be the ‘default’ outer barrel when using a Guarder slide.

Shooter’s Design: Shooter’s Design makes separate outer barrels from the slide sets but they do limited runs of the product. If you can find one, the fit on them is a bit tight around the hop-up unit. Be prepared to lube your hop-up assembly to drop in.

PGC: As I mentioned before, the PGC Slide/Barrel set is probably the most drop in friendly set on the market for the Marui Glocks. They don’t make aftermarket barrels, but if you can find a separate outer barrel from them, I highly recommend you buy it much more than the latter products.

Detonator: The Detonator “Lone Wolf” Custom outer barrel is primarily for the G17, though most retailers will advertise it being useable with the Glock 18c. It’s threaded in 14mm +/- depending on which one you’re after. These are beautiful but are only available overseas and are limited run parts.

Barrel and Slide Cross-compatibility: (-1 Smoothness of cycle rate, +1 Headaches, Grants the ability to use Green Gas and Headache Ability)

It is important to note that you should NEVER mix and match the slide and barrel between two different brands. One brand has different tolerances than the other. Even being off by a millimeter can set in motion imminent failure for your gun.


But should you be inclined to use a specific barrel with a specific slide, you should be mindful of the type of material you are mixing. Steel vs Aluminum, 6061 vs. 7075, Die Cast vs Aluminum/Steel, and the list of possible combinations can go on. Steel is heavier than aluminum, aluminum is much better quality than die cast metals.

Steel will withstand more wearing than aluminum since it is much stronger and heavier. If you’re barrel is steel made, look forward for that barrel to eat away your aluminum slide. If you’re after steel slide but have an aluminum outer barrel, look forward to tolerance of the ejection port being off by a few decimeters.


One might be inclined to purchase, install and use different aftermarket parts to attain a specific look or function. Thus, here is the barrel/slide compatibility with the best fittings (apart from the original slide/barrel OEM sets). Though this may seem like conjecture and is open to debate, I have tested these fittings myself and have noted some of the behavior of the gun while running these set ups.

PGC Slide: (+1 Durability, +1 Rate of Fire, +1 Cycling)
-Compatible with ALL ALUMINUM barrels with no modifications needed.
-Not recommended to use with steel barrels (wear much quicker than the latter aftermarket slides) like Guarder’s 2011 version

PGC Outer Barrel: (+1 Durability, +1 Smoothness)

-Compatible with all aluminum slides only.
-Perfect drop in for the hop-up
-Works extremely well with Shooter’s Design, Guarder and Detonator aluminum slides

Shooter’s Design Slide: (+1 Durability)
-Perfect with PGC and Guarder Aluminum outer barrels
-7075 Strong and durable able to withstand steel barrels

Shooter’s Design Barrel: (+1 Durability)
-Perfect for the Guarder steel slide
-Even with a SD Slide, it’s not a perfect drop in needs minor adjustments for smooth operation

Guarder Slide Aluminum: (+1 Durability)
-Troublesome with outer barrels other than Shooter’s Design
-Airsoft Surgeon barrels are either too tight or too loose around the ejection port

Guarder Slide Steel: (+1 Weight, -1 Rate of Fire)
-Steel slide needs proper combination upgrades for a smoother cycle
-Should only be used with steel barrels

Guarder Outer Barrel: (-1 Smoothness (steel), +1 Weight)
-Not recommended to use with PGC slide (will eat away the ejection port much quicker as the dimension of the chamber are off)
-Shooter’s Design 7075 slide is perfect
-The hop unit is very tight fitting. If not lubed properly, it will eat away a layer
-Some are aluminum but now are primarily made out of steel

Airsoft Surgeon Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Quality)
-Best use in conjunction with Guarder, Shooter’s Design and PGC Outer Barrel

Airsoft Surgeon Barrel: (+1 Quality, +1 Durability)
-Best use in conjunction with all aluminum slides

BoomArms Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability)
-Best use ONLY WITH BOON ARMS Barrel and PGC Barrel

BoomArms Barrel: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability)
-Best use in conjunction with BoonArms Slide and PGC Slide

Detonator Slide: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability)
-Suitable for all aluminum barrels
-Accommodates all tolerances from different barrels

Detonator Barrel: (+1 Durability)
-Best use with all aluminum slides

5KU Slide: (-1 Quality, +1 Durability)
-Only use with Aluminum barrels
-Not Recommended for Guarder Barrels
-Internals may need modification to drop in

5KU Barrel: (-1 Quality, +1 Durability)
-Best use in conjunction with aluminum slides
-Not recommended for Guarder steel slides

Ruggedized Miniature Reflex Sight System (RMR) Slide Kits : (+1 Aesthetics, Grant the ability to use a red dot sight system)

These slide kits normally use a Glock 18c blowback unit because the mini-red dot is "melted" onto the slide rather than using a specialized mounting bracket that would normally replace the rear sight. This why these kits are predominantly made for the Glock 18c rather than the G17.

Aesthetically, they are usually modelled after the Salient Arms International slide models. But you can find the ZEV Tech RMR slide kits.

But buyer beware. Depending on where you buy these kits from or who makes them, the reflex sight is very brittle. One client of mine said that the lens on his reflex sight popped out. Another said that while mounting the sight, he lost a protective rubber ring and the a bit of moisture got into the circuit thereby destroying the sight system.

Because these are slide mounted optics, make sure you either buy a decent mini optic system that is shock resistant if you are planning on using it during your endeavors.


So this kit is very made. The slide itself does not need any real modification made to fit the BBH. It marries well to the frame assembly and with ease. The tilt on the barrel was not too bad.

The PPT reflex sight it comes with require slight modification to fit. Otherwise, the sight is not usable with this kit.

ACE 1 Arms:
So this kit is not as choice as other alternatives. The fit is terrible. One a few of the ones that I worked on, I the slide doesn't actually allow the slide to travel far enough to engage the slide lock.

The quality is not bad but it's not the greatest either. The paint on the gold barrels are terribly soft and so easy to rub off.

Ok choice. At best.

I like these but I believe that the Prime ones are much better in terms of their fit and quality.
Good quality on the barrel in terms of surface finishing. It's the most durable finish of them all I think.

Nebula ZEV Style RMR Slide and Barrel Kit:
OEM'ed by NOVA, this kit is one of my favs.
Although not visually appealing, this kit was compatible with all almost every Aftermarket slide rail and blowback unit I had in stock. The action was so fluent that a stock recoil spring was enough to carry the slide with the reflex sight installed and was able to chamber a round with ease.

SIGHTS: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Sight Picture, MAY Grant the ability to use sight system in dark areas)

Sights may or may not be important to the wielder. But nevertheless, it still receives a fair amount of attention from many manufacturers. It’s important to note that even if a seller states that a sight system is compatible with two models, it may not simply be true. You MUST nit pick the picture of the sight you’re after and compare it with the stock sights you are trying to replace to prevent modifications.

Note that the rear sights of the G17 are different from the G18c. Thus, you will need to heavily modify the rear sight post in order to fit a G17 rear sight on a G18c. G26’s are the same as G17 rear sights.

-Medium expense
-Durable night settings
-Drop in perfectly for any slide
-Not Cross compatible with G18c and G17

Guarder Steel Night sights:
-Perfect drop in for all slides (front and rear)
-Steel slides may need slight sanding for a snug fit
-Decent glowing power with a medium lifespan

NINE Ball Tritium Sight:
-Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c
-Careful you don’t damage the 3h vial when installing
-Be prepared to modify the front sight

5KU Metal Night Set:
-Glow Sights are pure crap
-Even though advertised in use with ALL Marui Glocks, Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c

SA Glow Sights:
-Not Cross compatible with G17 and G18c
-Fiber rods are cheap quality and do not glow well

AIP International Fiber Optic GLO Sights:

-Only for G17
-Fiber rods do not fit into sight

-Very good sights
-Has cut outs on the mount base so that the BBU does not need to be modified to accommodate it.

Thunder Airsoft:
-Weird looking sights
-Integrated rail for attaching slide mounted optics
-Not the greatest sight in the world
-Its weight will add more to the total slide weight

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post



Let’s start with the good. It’s a tritium sight that is finished and machined well. In the dark, the red front sight makes aiming a bit easier. Some will complain that these sights are not bright enough - I would argue that with adjusted eyes, they are bright enough to work with, but to each their own. As a basic iron sight - fabulous. Easy to line up, the black paint is easier to contrast compared to the Guarder’s dark grey. The downsides, and the reason these sights are rated satisfactory… is the material. Easily a winner in steel, these sights are made of aluminium, with a steel M2.5 screw. They will strip after repeated use. They are fixable by tapping the resultant hole for M3 threads, which solves the issue somewhat… but still, easily avoidable. Seeing this makes me wary of using the sights to rack the slide. Get the Detonator GL-01 instead. Of note is that G18C sights will work in a G17, but not vice versa.



The good thing - it’s durable as heck. No fears of this thing breaking when I rack the slide off a table. The item also drops in without much fuss, which is perfect for most users. The downsides - the glow in the dark dots are painted on poorly, so they flake off over time. Second - the dots are way too large, to the point of being distracting when trying to use the ironsights traditionally. I would argue my dissatisfaction with the sights, apart from the dots falling off, are purely personal. For the cost of these items though, it’s not a bad idea to try them at all.



It's a steel sight, near perfect replica of the Trijicon GL-01 found on most factory upgraded Glocks. Unlike the real thing, these dots are only glow in the dark. The dots are surrounded by white plastic for daytime use, and the front dot is slightly larger for speed of acquisition. Unless you can get a GunsModify Tritium night sight, these are what I'd suggest.
There’s probably tons more, but these are the sets that I’ve gotten my hands on.

Magazine Catch: (+1 Ergonomics, Grants the ability to speed reload)

Guarder Steel Magazine Catch: This is one of the four magazine catches available on the market. It feels nice on the fingers. Fits best.

Airsoft Surgeon Diamond Extended Magazine Catch: This is for the IPSC based Glock gun. It is intended for faster reloads by increasing the raise on the magazine catch. Good quality.

AIP Aluminum Magazine Catch:
Affordable magazine catch but it wears much faster than the latter.

Shooter’s Design Magazine Catch:
Like Guarder’s.

SAPH Stainless Steel Magazine Catch
Good drop in fit. Require a bit of wearing for the magazine to mate properly.

Thunder Airsoft:
-Good but not great
-The paddle prevented mine from releasing the magazine fluently

Slide Catch: (+1 Ergonomics)

This part is very easy to install and drops right in. No need to sand things

AIP Extended Slide Catch:
Again, No modification required. However, it seems a bit more brittle than the GunsModify one

Guarder Extended Slide Catch:
Fairly Easy to install. You MIGHT have to modify the rounded edged. Some of the ones I installed were sooo tight that the part didn't actuate properly. Guarder what's going one!!??

Trigger: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Ergonomics, Grants shorter trigger pulls)

GunsModify Version 1:

They sell two different colors: silver and black. Both have 3 interchangeable colors for safety triggers: red, black and silver. This trigger is adjustable but the trigger bar negates this feature as the cut on the trigger is not exact. Thus, if you want to use this feature, you need to sand your trigger lever.

GunsModify Version 2 "Salient Arms":

There is a slight difference from version 1. The most notable one is the design. It looks like an RS version of Salient Arms trigger. THe second is that the design of this version is much more drop in friendly. It still negates the trigger safety if you adjust it but I find that you don't have to modify it to fit the Marui Trigger bar.

Beware though, this version does not come with the very thin plastic disk for the G17 trigger bar. Thus, if you’re using a G17 trigger bar, it will rattle around.

Airsoft Surgeon Salient Arms Trigger:

This is almost the same as the GunsModify Version 2 trigger. However it can not be manipulated as easy as the GUnsModify one. For one, I think it's primarily made for the G17. When I tried to fit a G18c trigger bar on, it as a bit tight because the width of the trigger bar itself was bigger.

The Frame: (+1 Aesthetics, +1 Durability)

Now, if you have spec’ed your Glock to use Green Gas with a metal slide and stronger recoil springs, depending, on how well you take care of your pistol, you may need to change your frame altogether. At some point or another, your front screw post on the stock frame may give out. You can try to fix it by JB Welding it back together and get some shock buffers to absorb some of the recoil.

Guarder makes a replacement frame with a reinforced front screw post. The post has been packed and uses a different screw casing altogether. The plastic is durable and has less flex than the stock Tokyo Marui frame. Plus it contains all the proper trademarks in all the right places if you’re that type of guy.

This frame can accommodate all internal parts very well. The magazine catch is a bit of fight but no modification is needed.

The other frame alternative you can have on your Glock is the clear, transparent lower frame. These are not upgrade frames but rather serve as a temporary replacement. You should only use these in conjunction with duster as they are very weak and tend to crack all over the place after a few hundred rounds with green gas. My first Glock was a cansoft TM G17 and the frame cracked after plinking a few rounds on Green Gas. They may be useful for emergency purposes but not ideal for permanent use.

Internal Upgrades: (+1 Durability, +1 Cycling, +1 Functionality)

Before we go on, it is important to note that the more aftermarket parts you add on to your gun, the more it tends to break down. This is solely based on parts having a hard time marrying to OEM components. SO, you have to be precise in what it is you are trying to upgrade on your gun.

Also, the more you take your gun apart, the more it becomes prone to failure. Half the guns that I’ve had to fix are things that the owner did wrong when he put the gun back together. Look at it this way: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

150% Recoil Springs and Spring Guides: (+1 Cycling)

Upgraded recoil springs are designed move the heavier aftermarket slides as opposed to the lighter plastic stock slide. Do note that the heavier the slide assembly, a stronger recoil spring is required to carry that slide. And vice versa. Improper usage of springs can damage your Glock. Using a high power spring on a lighter slide brings a lot of stress on your front screw post and thus will destroy it. A heavy slide with a light powered spring won’t cycle your gun properly.

Also, note that the stronger you make your recoil spring, the less recoil you’re going to feel. This is because the spring will resist the rear slide stroke even more reducing the slides velocity as it travels to the rear.

Stronger spring = lesser felt recoil

Most springs come with an enhanced recoil guide rod. I’m not going to list all of the different brands as there are just simply too many manufacturers that make these but here are a few of the well known brands that I used:

Guarder makes both the spring and guide rods. You can buy them together or separately. These are perfect for use with Guarder slides. They are generally a bit stronger than the latter Shooter’s Design springs of the same power.

Shooter’s Design:
The spring is a bit stronger than Guarder’s even though they boast the same power (150%). It usually comes with a stainless steel recoil rod. Can carry all aluminum slides just fine. However, the top spring plug tends to unscrew itself so make sure you check regularly to make sure it’s still properly seated.

It’s decent quality. It’s steel but the guide rod has more components than the average SD or Guarder spring kits available, which means it needs a little bit more attention than the latter.

This is again a two-stage spring set. Comes with a buffer spring to help with the recoil. Not recommended for steel slides.

This is the only spring/guide rod set that has shock buffers preinstalled for the G18c. This has a weaker spring because of the buffers. It was designed for use with the stock slide. This will short stroke your pistol. Alternatively, NineBall also makes the non-buffer enhanced set so you can still have a slide lock on empty. Your choice.

It's ok. A little stiff. It will short stroke the gun a little bit. The spring guide it come with best.

Those are just a few. I have experimented with a lot of different brands and I’ve found these to be the best of the best.

Hammer Springs: (+1 Power)

Hammer springs are not necessarily a must have upgrade. You only need stronger hammer springs for the summer as the gasses tends cook and expand inside the magazine in hotter weather. Thus, the pressure from inside the magazine pushing unto the blow off valve is heavier and requires a good strike from the valve knocker to achieve optimal gas output. Hence, the need for a stronger spring. It has also been noted in the past that the newer Glock versions do not need a hammer spring upgrade as they have already been fitted with one that can handle hi-flow valves.

Again there are many manufacturers of this part so I’ll only stick to a few:

This spring usually comes with the recoil spring upgrade. This is probably the best fitting of all the brands.

Shooter’s Design:
This needs slight modification for ALL the Glocks. You may need to cut the ends a bit to fit. This is much more reliant than Guarder’s spring and is my choice as far as hammer springs go.

SA Enhanced Hammer Spring:

"Enhanced “doesn't neccesarily mean a strengthened spring. This one seems to be weaker than Guarder's and SD's spring but stronger than the stock one. It doesn't really work on a hot magazine and will continually give you light strikes.

Same as SA's spring. They both act the same way.

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post


The Guarder spring breaks, the UAC spring is untested, and the TM spring is too weak. By virtue of actually working, this item earns an excellent rating. You may find that this item is not a necessary upgrade. But, if you’re having issues with light strikes in warm weather, or you want a bit of a velocity boost, then it’s an excellent purchase.
Precision Inner Barrels: (+1 Accuracy, +1 Power)

Inner barrels are the case-by-case basis. It really depends on what you are doing with your Glock. For regular skirmishes and CQB scenarios, a 6.01 tight bore inner barrel isn’t necessarily a compulsory upgrade since you’ll have a primary weapon. Whereas, If you are using Glock for some type of shooting competition (NOTE: the G18c is not a competition gun and is not allowed in most shooting competitions) where accuracy is a must, then a 6.01 inner barrel is feasible. Due note that because the G26 is a sub-compact pistol, you won’t be able to interchange the inner barrel with the G17 or G18c. Also note that the tighter the bore, you will be required to use very high quality BB’s (Bastards FTW) to prevent damage.

Here are some but not all inner barrels to consider:

A+ 6.01 Precision 97mm Inner Barrel for Marui GBB Pistols (5.1/Glock/P226):
This isn't the best TB out there but it does a decent job. It behaves in the same manner as PDI's regular barrel (the silver one, not the Palsonite version). Sometimes, I got a jam using this barrel.

PDI: Available in 6.04, 6.03, 6.01 bore for G17/G18c
PDI’s inner barrel is probably the most common. Even though it is of decent quality and decent price range, it very has a tendency to become a bit of a pain in the long run. They somehow tend to eat up your hop-up rubber.

Energy: Available in 6.01-6.04 bore
This is probably the lower quality brand of inner barrels. Made out of Aluminum, you’ll need to add a layer of tape to stop it from wiggling around.

First 6.03 Inner Barrel:
This a good replacement barrel for the skirmish/CQB scenarios. It’s relatively inexpensive and can easily marry to all the outer barrels on the market.

Falcon: Available in 6.01-6.03 bore

Good quality. Some come with hop up rubber. Some are a bit tight fitting on the hop up assembly.

Tanio Koba:
This is probably the best bang for your buck inner barrel on the market. The Hop Twist inner barrel is quite unique and found to increase accuracy greater than the other products.


KM is the only inner barrel that I’ve comes across that gives you both a power and accuracy upgrade for your G26. It’s a mid range product. Good but you can probably do a lot better.

Airsoft Surgeon:

Fits right in and has no trouble marrying with all the different outer barrels on the market. It’s pricey but worth it. Note that these were limited runs with different barrel lengths: 6in, 7in, 8in.

Airsoft Surgeon Non-Hop inner barrel for Glock:

This version of the AS inner barrel has an inner bore of 6.02mm. It has no hop up. This barrel will increase your FPS by a bit.

There is more but I have so many out of their packages that I don’t know what brand they are. So I’ll just leave it that for now.

Floating Valves: (+1 Durability, +1 Gas Efficiency, +1 Power)

For the most part, you don’t really need to worry about floating valves breaking in your stock Marui Glock. They are a very well made OEM parts and will handle green gas just fine. But if you’re looking for a bit of an upgrade of gas efficiency, the floating valve is a good place to start to make the changes.


Firefly rocket valves are probably the most ideal floating valve systems for the G18c. Having a full auto pistol means that you will expel a lot of gas thus gas efficiency is a must. Firefly does a very good job of filling in for the stock system.

This is a whole replacement set for the loading nozzle assembly. This is made from plastic. Its not recommended as this is made from non-reinforced plastic. This one broke on me after a couple a couple magazines.

Action Aluminum Floating Valve for Glock:
This is good enough to run in your Glock. It’s lightweight and easy to install.

Same as AABB.

This is a heavy floating valve. The holes are bigger allowing for more airflow. However the floating valve head has no cone to direct the airflow traffic. I like it though. It functions well.

High Output Blowoff valves (High Flow Valves): (+1 Power)

-Gain about 20-30 FPS depending on weather
-Fits tightly and seals much better than the competition

-Dont buy it!

-Gain about 20-25 FPS depending on temperature
-Inexpensive but good performer
-O-Ring tends to dislodge

-Gain about 28-31 FPS
-Good performer

Loading Muzzles: (+1 Durability)
Note that this part is not cross compatible. An G18c loading nozzle is different from a G17 and G26

Airsoft Surgeon Enhanced Muzzle set:
I like it. I like it alot!!

As mentioned above, this is not an ideal replacement part. Made out of plastic, it still flexes like the stock loading assembly.

Requires little to none modifications to fit and gets along with the internal components very well. But some operators have been reporting problems with breakage after a few mags worth. see the thread posts.

AIP Enhanced Loading muzzle
It's ok. It's not the greatest. IT comes in a set that includes a floating valve + FV Spring. THe floating valve sux!

Belongs with AABB in the lower tier upgrades. The fitting on these sets are horrible and doesn’t glide smoothly even with lubrication.

I'm still testing these on how durable they are. So I can't speak for how long they will last.
BUT the good news is that they are pretty good in terms of fitting. They will move in and out freely and little force.
It also fits with very with the hop up unit.

UAC Glock 17/18c Aluminum Loading Muzzle:
Careful when using this. I have seen these freeze in cold weathers.
Also, metal muzzles tend to ruin hop up rubbers.

Future Energy:
Cheap. Stay awaaaayyy!Mine broke in the first hundred rounds....

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post


Little to say about this item. Made of a better polymer than the stock nozzle, it drops in, slides freely, and works well with the Nineball Dyna Piston head. Easily the best nozzle I’ve used, short of the Airsoft Surgeon nozzle. You will need to transplant the internals of your original nozzle into the new nozzle. It also fits very well into the TM hopup chamber, and the AIP hopup chamber. Avoid the first generation - they had a reputation for breaking, but the second generation items are solid. There are TM and WE Glock versions, so make sure you get the right one for your needs.
Hop-Up Rubber (Hop Up Bucking): (+1 Accuracy)

Hop Up rubbers increase the air seal around the the inner barrel. Thus, improves the airflow on you Glock. The effects of a good hop up rubber is evident through increased accuracy, range and a slight power increase. If your hop-up is not tuning properly, check to see if your bucking is still good shape. You don't want this part wearing down.

Note that the harder buckings are made for higher velocity guns. But since the Glock won't reach any higher than 310-325 FPS, you will be dealing with mostly soft buckings as they tend to work better with lower velocity guns. Harder buckings are more for your standard rifle than a pistol.

Here are some that are worth noting.

RA Tech Hop-Up Bucking:
-Good use with the PDI TB Inner Barrel
-Produces a tight seal

Falcon Hop-up Bucking (sold with inner barrel):
-Good for use with Falcon inner barrels
-Harder than RA-Tech

Firefly VSR-10 Hop-Up Bucking:

-Good fit

AIP Reinforced Hop-Up Bucking:
-medium softness
-wears quickly

A+ Devil Hop Up Bucking (or something like that)
-Only works if the clamp on the hop-up base is tight
-Hop up has to be turned to maximum tightness to produce the results that the youtube videos showed
-Best used in conjunction with an 01 inner barrel

NineBall Hop-Up Bucking
-I found these to be one of the best buckings for the Glock on the market
-Produces a good seal on the BB
-Gives good accuracy output with the TK Twist inner barrel

PDI W-Hold Hop Up Bucking
This is a very good alternative to the NineBall bucking. While the NineBall one gives you power, you'll get more accuracy with the PDI one. Note though that my experience with this bucking: it swelled after several hundred rounds.

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post



It’s a good idea having a notch in the middle to align the BB pellet, but I’m amazed at just how quickly this item absorbs oil. Within a thousand rounds it was near useless, and had to be discarded. While it lasted, it worked very well, allowing me to hit a pie plate at 100 feet.



So far, it seems to hop consistently, and it’ll hop the heavier rounds. Maple Leaf advertises that this bucking will decrease range, but increase accuracy. I haven’t had the time to really evaluate this claim, but the bucking has given me results I’m comfortable with up to 100 feet. Be advised that you will need a barrel with an open bucking window, as the patch is larger than a closed window can provide.
BlowBack Units (BBU): (+1 Durability)

AIP TM Glock 17 BBU Housing

The AIP Glock 17 BBU housing was a perfect fit for my Guarder slides. THe don't need any modifications or lubrication to get into place. Rear sights were easy to align with the screw. The only thing I disliked about this casing is that it comes with an integrated piston head which doesn't provide a good airseal because the o-ring was a bit small. If you want to maximize the airseal using this thing, install a better o-ring than what it comes with.

GunsModify Lightweight Aluminum BBU

This was 50/50 for me. On one hand, it’s quite light and has a modular piston head mount. This meant that you could buy other piston heads and put them inside this thing and it will work. This ability is something that other BBUs currently on the market lacks. On the other hand, it required a TON of modification.

Nineball Featherweight BBU casing/piston for G18c:

This is a lightweight piston/BBU casing. It made of plastic so it weighs like...a feather amount.

AKA Lightweight Aluminum BBU
This is the exact same design as AIP’s. It has the same integrated piston head. All you can really do to create a good seal from this system is to shim the O-ring section on the piston head with the some duct tape or something.

The difference between this one and the AIP one is that this thing fits like shit. A ton of modifications were made to make mine work right.

Angel Custom Lightweight Aluminum BBU
Once again, this mimic’s the AIP design. The finish on it is smoother than the GunsModify one. I don’t recommend this one though.

Guarder Blowback Unit v1/v2
These are nothing special. As with typical guarder products, these blowback units are very inconsistent with measurements. Some of the ones that I've received did not line up with the slide rail guides. Another one had the bump for the hammer protrude waay too much.

There are two versions of this unit. One is the lightweight one and the other is the alloy one with the stock weight.
Both can fit real steel back plates.

Get which ever you need.

Hop-Up Casing/Base: (+1 Durability)

The AIP hop-up base is an aluminum replacement for the stock hop-up base. It's much lighter than the stock one so it will lighten your internal assembly a bit.

UAC Aluminum Hop Up unit
It's ok. Aluminum means greater durability over the stock Marui unit.
The screws threading on these sometimes break if you try to use some other screw. So Just watch out for that.

The other thing is that this unit tries accomodate the Marui clone receivers as well. Thus you may encounter some issues during the action. Most notable if your outerbarrel doesn't tilt properly.

TSC Aluminum Hop Up uni
Ok Choice.
I like the screws better from this unit. It has less potential of stripping when taking it apart as it uses the hex key instead.
Front Chasis: (+1 Durability)

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post


Does what it needs to. Good replacement for the TM unit when the pin on the left side goes, causing issues with a rough action or delaying cycling. Not a fan of the loose nuts that interface with the screws in the clamshell, but for avoiding stripping, I’ll take it. Sits fairly well in the PGC outer barrel. For those of you who like to shim your inner barrel inside of the outer, this hopup chamber isn’t quite tolerant of that for some reason. I had a couple of failure to feeds as a result of shimming, so once that as removed, the gun ran smoothly. Lockup between the nozzle and unit seems quite good - once the gun returns to battery, the inner barrel does not budge at all.
For the most part, this does not changing. However, if your slide wobbles waaayyy to much it may be ideal for you to proccure a new set of slide rails. Be advised though, the slide rails are a two part rail system. The first part is the front chasis that houses the trigger and the other set of rails is the rear chasis that houses your internal hammer system.

As a general overview, the most awkward part of installing this part on the Marui is the alignement of the slide lock. Make sure that your slide lock can freely move up and down so you can take the slide apart. Some of the front chasis don't accommodate this function too well in conjunction to aftermarket frames.

Guarder Steel Front Chasis For Marui G26
So. This steel replacement is designed for durability. It's ok. But your running a stock frame, make sure you protect that front screw casing.

Guarder Steel Front Chasis For Marui G17/G18c
Once again, this part is an ok part to have. It's not the greatest. As once again Guarder's inconsistancies really take the center stage on this one.

Tried with most slide types. Some were loose and some were uber TIGHT! The Guarder Steel Slides are won't even move with this rail system installed.

So Buyer Beware!

Creation Steel Front Chasis For Marui G26
So this one is a steel upgrade as well.
It works waaaay better than the Guarder ones. Slide action is not the smoothest on these but it's much more consistent fitting with different brand slides.

UAC Aluminum Front Rail Chasis
This is a two piece set up.
It fits most slides out there. You may need to work at it to get the manaul safety moving fluently but nobody really activates that part safety anyways. :P

Rear Chasis: (+1 Durability)

Be Very careful when investing in this part. Make sure you buy a MARUI SPECIFIC hammer housing.

There is one key difference that the Marui hammer housing has that others don't. This difference is key because without it, it can make your hammer unit go on full auto if it's missing. Essentially, the slide will be spaced out far enough that when the slide travels above the hammer, it won't clamp enough to lock the hammer to the sear. Thus, full auto.

UAC Aluminum Hammer Housing
All the hammer parts fit nicely in here.
All holes line up and they are very accomodating in terms of different slide manufacturers.

Guarder Steel hammer Housing
So this is comes in 4 different variations.

Make sure you buy the MARUI Specific version not the KJW version or whatever stupid crap. Again, this one works exactly the Guarder front chasis described above.

Valve Knockers: (+1 Durability)

Shooter’s Design G17 Valve Knocker:
Again, the valve knocker is a very high stress part. So will need to replace this part at some point or another. Steel made. Just like the hi-capa version though, you may need to shorten the strike face to get a fluent operation. Otherwise the valve knocker will be too long and won't slip behind the blowoff valve resulting in the dreaded light strike.

Guarder Glock Steel Valve Knocker
This the WORST fitting valve knocker I've ever had to deal with. It jams the hammer completely and will not fire the pistol. I suggest you look for alternatives.

Gunsmodify Steel Valve Knocker
So this part is weird. It's not compatible with some hammers. Particularly, some of the G18c hammers.

I worked with millions of these. And they all have a the same flaw: it blocks the disconnector from dropping.

AIP Steel Valve Knocker
Needs modification. Look carefully on where you need to make the adjustments. These produce lightstrikes on their own.

Hammers and Sear Sets: (+1 Durability)

Guarder Steel Hammer:
It fits very tightly on the trigger bar pin. Lube it lots and lots if this is the case for your gun.

The hammer rotor also needs to be either modified to fit or lossened up with lube.

Guarder Steel Sear:
It's best to use this with the Guarder Hammer.
The hammer hooks are a bit proud and you will need to have a longer trigger pull to release the hammer.
At least, this was the case with my Guarder sear. lol.

Guarder Hammer Rotor:
This is non sense. You don't need to buy this part. The one that I got was too big and caused some slide action issues.

GunsModify Zero Hammer:
For the most part you don't need this replacement. The reason why this replacement came to market was because of the hammer tends to get caught and prevents the slide from fully cycling. SOmetimes, the slide won't fully return to battery because of this one part. The newer versions of the TM G17 have a much better hammer assembly and does not get stuck anymore. But I got one anyways. FOr the most part it does work. Taking the G17 down is much easier with this installed than the latter stock part.

AIP Hammer Parts (for G17 and G18c)

There was some trouble with the sear on the Glock 17 set. As Turok_T mentioned below, the tab that the trigger bar interacts with isn't cut properly. So you'll need to sand it down a bit for it to function properly. Other than that, I found that it mated perfectly with the Shooter's Design Hammer spring and valve knocker. The hammer spring it comes with seems to be prone to light strikes. Also, the stock hammer bearing doesn't work with this thing. It's too small. That's why it comes with its own hammer bearing that is a bit bigger than the stock. With the stock one installed, the hammer couldn't lock onto the sear hence the hammer was staying in the uncocked position.

The Glock 18c version was somewhat equally troublesome for me. The fullauto sear's tab (the part that interacts with the slide) seemed to protrude quite proudly and was causing some friction. I've had to sand it down a bit and polish it to remove the unwanted friction.

KM Stainless steel hammer w/ Bearing for Marui Glock 18c:
This hammer set fits right in to your Glock 18c Hammer housing. It's made of steel which means it's pretty strong but it also means that it will wear out the BBU much quicker than the stock counter part.

KM Stainless Steel Sear and Valve Knocker Set:
Again, it's made of steel but because of this material, it will wear the contact point of the stock hammer much quicker than the stock sear. It is recommended that you purchase a hammer that is made of steel for longevity. As well, you may need to shorten the valve knocker a little bit as sometimes, it may protrude further than it needs to.

UAC Glock 17/Glock 18c steel hammer Set:
It's ok. I like the Glock 17 hammer but the new Glock 18c hammer is a bit troublesome marrying to the BBU interaction point.

Other Internal Upgrades:

Shooter’s Design Glock 18c Full-Auto Sear:
For the most part you don’t need to worry about the sear until it wears thin. The Shooter’s Design sear is the only alternative. It’s steel so it will last you for a long time. Good for shooting Full auto.

Guarder Trigger Bar:
This is not a necessary upgrade. It is mainly used as a reinforced part for extended use with green gas. Note that this is only useable with the G17.

Add-Ons: (+1 Aesthetics)

There are a myriad of weapon attachments you can add to your light. Some serve functional purpose and others serve nothing more than mere eye candy.

Flashlights: (+1 Ergonomics, +1 Aesthetics, Grants the ability to light your darkest hour)
The best light you can possibly get for your Glock is a good old M3 tactical light. When you talk about tactical Glocks, the M3 lights is easy to attach and easy to operate.

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post


E-Luder, in his original post, recommended the M3X weaponlight as an effective light for a Glock platform. While I believe the M3X has several things going for it, I would suggest that times have changed, and the TLR-1 has become the better value. Available for around $150, it offers several variants, such as a high lumen model, and a strobe model. Adapters allow it to fit most firearms, and its metal construction makes it more durable than the M3X. The rotating paddle switch in the back allows for momentary activation, or steady activation. The TLR-1 mounts from the side, with a spring loaded rail mount. A screw tightens down the mount to ensure the light stays on the gun. I have had this light on a GBB rifle, a GBB pistol, underwater, and it has survived without issue. If you get one, you’ll get great value out of it. If you feel like it’s asking for a lot… well, it’s the price of two knockoff Surefire X300 lights, which will break eventually. Long-term savings for short-term investment.
Lasers: (+1 Aesthetics, Grants the ability to permanently destroy a targets retina)
There are essentially three types of lasers that you can mount on your Glock: a rail mounted laser, a trigger mounted laser and the Silverback grip laser. Any under rail laser will fit on your Glock provided they’re of the same dimensions. The trigger-mounted lasers may need you to modify their mount, as the Glock trigger guard is a bit thicker than most pistols.

The Silverback grip laser isn’t bad to use but their fitting isn’t consistent. Some fit well while others not so well. I have three of these and they all seem to be different in terms of their cut and snugness. Plus, zeroing these things isn’t as easy as they seem.

Army Force G17 IPSC Kit: (+1 Aesthetics, -1 Functionality, Grants the ability to mount a MRDS and compensator)
This kit includes a threaded barrel, thumb rest, scope mount, cocking handle, compensator and a mag well. This is kit is not great. The scope mount and its subsequent screws do not fit properly onto the G17. The scope prevents a smooth cycle because it touches a little bit with the moving slide. SO no…just…no.

Suppressors: (+1 Aesthetics, -1 Cycle)
You need a lightweight suppressor if you want a full cycling gun. I have an ACM HK marked metal with foam brick 155mm suppressor on mine. It's heavy and pulls the outer barrel down preventing a smooth cycle. Sometimes, it gets the slide stuck. If you want to effectively use a suppressor, get an extended inner barrel.

Now, for non threaded outerbarrels, you can add an adapter. Pro arms sells these specifically for both KSC and TM Glocks in CCW and CW threads but you need an extended inner barrel to mount it.

Mini Red Dot Scopes (MRDS): (+1 Accuracy)
It is possible to mount a mini red dot on your Glock. There are scores of mini red dots available. Get one that you feel comfortable in terms of how it functions and weight. You’ll need a mount for it. Silverback makes ones for the G17 but won’t fit the other Glock models without heavy modifications. You need to sand the post down to fit the other two models.

Face-strike Kits: (+1 Face-hitting Power)
This fits as an under rail attachment. There are strike kits available from 5KU and Nineball. It just slides right in place.

Freedom Art Accu’comp Set: (+1 Colorfulness)
I was fortunate to have found one these on ebay. The fitting on Freedom Art compensator set is a case-by-case give or take. While the fit was immaculate on the G17, on the G18c it was tighter. This boggles my mind.

The trigger pin for example was super tight to get on and through to the other side.

Carbine Kits: (+1 Ergonomics, -1 Recoil, Grants to ability to wield a Glock as a SMG type weapon)
There are few carbine kits you can purchase to turn your Glock into a SMG. AABB and EA just to name a few.

Magazine: (+1 Ammo Capacity)

There is only one magazine that I have tested in for Tokyo Marui G17 and G18c. AABB makes a high capacity, long magazine. This is a horrible magazine. Though its price range may attract you, this magazine has a tendency to leak after a few hundred rounds. Which is...whatever. I bought three of these at once and even fitted with good valve kits, they still leak.

Alternatively, you can buy the more expensive TM brand magazines. While the cost may be double that of AABB's, it is rightly justified by the the quality and longevity you are receiving.

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post

Needs Improvement

All of the three I bought leak, the plug that holds the CO2 in strips, and none of these magazines function. I’m not sure if I got a bad batch, but given how well green gas works in these guns, definitely avoid these magazines.
Magwells/Magazine Baseplates:
Magazine wells help enhance the ergonomics of your grip on the Glock by providing a resting area for pinky side of your hand. Though you may not feel this with the full size Glocks, you will definitely feel it in the baby G26. The magazine well also improves your reload speed as it gives you a wider surface to 'feel' for insertion of the magazine into the magazine chamber. Though this may or may not specifically be important for skirmish type situations, the use of magazine wells definitely favors players playing in professional shooting stadiums like CAPS.

Shooter's Design Magwell:

The Shooter's Design magwell is one of the best fitting magwells on the market. It is very comfortable to have on your Glock and feels lighter than the latter products. Some of them have the lanyard plug at the bottom.

SA Aluminum Magwell:
This one is a typical magwell in comparison the Shooter's Design magwell. The fitting is is catered to the G17 magazine chamber as it tends to be harder to fit on the G18c. It's made out of aluminum and weighs a bit more than the SD well.

5KU Magwell:
This one mimics Shooter's Design style magwell where it has a break in the rear of the gun and doesn't completely cover the magazine chamber. Again, this one is more catered to the contours of the G17 rather than the G18c. It doesn't sit flat on your gun because the mount screw hole doesn't line up properly with the G17's.

T.S.C. 7075 MagWell:
This one is weighty because of the material stronger material and fits very well into your Gun. Good Quality too.

AIP Magwell:
I found this to be the most comfortable out of the magwells on the market. It's not as high a grade as Shooter's Design fit as it doesn't fit snuggly around your gun and can wiggle just a little bit. But again it is comfortable because of the contours are ergonomically friendly.

Shooter's Design Magbase:
These replace the baseplate on your stock magazine. They are both available for the long magazine and the standard size magazine. It doesn't have any real function per se other than providing you with authentic trademarks on your magazine. I find these to be cumbersome to have on your magazine as it covers the fill valve. The plate locks into place at the BB follower's spring base. For guys who like to fill up on gas on the field, having this is not ideal because you have to slide the plate of to reveal the fill valve while simultaneously holing the locking mechanism in the unlock position. And let me tell me you, these things fit very tightly around your mag base. Your gloved hands won't be able to accommodate the push you need to slide the plate off. At least in my experience.

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post



These plates fit snugly and hide the fact that your magazines belong to an airsoft gun. The downside is they will not take abuse well - a drop or two onto a hard surface from 4 feet and they’ll need replacing, typically due to a split at the edge where it rides onto the rails provided by the magazine. Then again, I don’t expect any airsoft baseplate to survive that harsh of a drop… so for what they’re meant for, they work, I guess. A downside is you will have to slide them forwards to refill on gas, but I got used to that quickly.



If there is one purchase you must make for a Glock, it is a ported piston head. You can choose between the Nineball option, the Speed option (Support a Canadian company!) or the Element option. I have had good success with both the Nineball and Speed piston heads, though the Speed piston head went into a Glock 19 I was working on, and the Nineball went into my own personal gun. A ported piston head works by tapping some of the gasses in the nozzle during the recoil phase of the action, and redirecting it underneath an o-ring that runs around the edge of the head, sealing it against the nozzle, but not creating excess friction. My efficiency went up to the point where I was able to get 52 shots out of a gun that had fired 24 previously. Not a bad change at all, and considering the cost of the item, well worth the money to combat the most common complaint about GBB pistols.

With a Glock, you generally will want to run the smaller o-ring provided by Nineball, as the larger o-ring will freeze and jam the gun under rapid fire. Every setup is different, so experiment. Signs that your fit is too loose include liquid propellent coming out of the ejection port during firing, or under the slide. Signs that your fit is too tight is your nozzle not moving freely, experiencing jams where the gun fails to feed after rapid fire, or requiring lubrication to keep firing. Lastly - don’t use the spring they provide you - your gun’s floating valve spring is more than sufficient and the Nineball one tends to waste gas.



The part drops in without an issue, so that’s good. Much less rigid than the stock slide stop, so it starts warping and distorting after heavy use. By the end of its lifespan on my gun (Approximately six months, 1000 rounds) the item was routinely causing the slide to not lock back. On this basis alone, there’s an issue. However, another issue may result from the way one holds the gun during firing. In my case, at least, I was routinely bumping into the slide release, causing an accidental slide stop when there were still rounds in the magazine. Modifying my grip resolved this issue, though I now prefer the stock slide stop for locking the slide back, and I resolve the lack of “purchase” on this item by racking the slide to load a new round from a new magazine. Now if only an airsoft version of the Vickers release was available…



A common description of this item is “It’s ugly and uncomfortable as hell… but it works.” Make sure you grab the version intended for your generation of pistol - The Generation 4 pistols have a differing adapter. It goes on with one pin, and drastically improves the grip in my case. Comfort wise, it’s pretty uncomfortable. But the pistol comes onto target faster, the sights line up all the time, and I don’t have to worry about slide bite. if you’re having troubles with the Glock grip, this might be worth a look. The item is made pretty well, it fits pretty tightly, and you can modify it to your liking. What’s not to like?



These plates fit snugly and hide the fact that your magazines belong to an airsoft gun. The downside is they will not take abuse well - a drop or two onto a hard surface from 4 feet and they’ll need replacing, typically due to a split at the edge where it rides onto the rails provided by the magazine. Then again, I don’t expect any airsoft baseplate to survive that harsh of a drop… so for what they’re meant for, they work, I guess. A downside is you will have to slide them forwards to refill on gas, but I got used to that quickly.

Gear: +1 Munitions, +1 Mobility

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post

Needs Improvement

It works as well as a SERPA does in theory, however the plastic is so poor that the pin holding the release paddle on backs out without a problem, and the release paddle itself is so poor that it flexes when pushed, meaning you can push in to release, and the gun will still be locked into the holster. Would not recommend, as the real holster is not much more and is durable.



You won’t see these often in airsoft, but they are fairly common as a law enforcement holster. The idea behind the Level III holster is that apart from the trigger finger release, there is also a thumb activated hood that holds the gun in, offering two levels of retention outside of friction. Apart from this, the holster is amazingly well built, the polymer doesn’t flex, the releases work without hesitation, and Blackhawk includes spacers to move the holster out from the body to accommodate body armour. As well, you can change the angle of draw, though I left it without a cant. If you want a weaponlight, however, look elsewhere.



It’s like a Blackhawk SERPA, but not really. Very minimalistic, with a trigger finger operated release paddle. Of note is that the paddle on this holster has more generous tolerances, so the issues that plague the SERPA, such as debris behind the release, should be less problematic here. The holster is highly adjustable for cant, however, it is attached to the mount with only one screw… not exactly a failsafe design. On the plus side, it comes available for mounting on a paddle, a belt loop, a MOLLE adapter, or a dropleg rig. It’s a cheap and easy way to get a decent holster, and it’s very lightweight. Worth looking into, though make sure you thread lock the mounting screw when you find the angle you want.



I have never had a bad Safariland holster, and now that R. Nichol’s exclusivity contract has ended, these holsters are now commonly available in Canada. The SLS uses a rotating hood to retain the firearm in the holster. Holsters are made of Kydex, and are lined with suede to protect the gun. Friction fit can be adjusted with hex keys, and the SLS can be modified with several attachments to increase retention, such as the sentry, which is a tab that locks the retention hood, requiring that it be unlocked before use. Another device would be the SLS hood, which protects the hood from attempts to unlock from the front, such as an attacker. Obviously, if someone is physically attacking you in airsoft… something is not right. Anyways, the 6280 is their base duty holster model, and comes in models that support a weaponlight, or models that support the bare basics. When I received mine, i had to break it in slowly, as it was a stiff draw. I’ve fallen on the holster, banged it against just about everything, and it’s still my primary choice.

Safariland also makes an ALS holster, which locks your pistol into the holster without active intervention, such as flipping the hood up in the SLS holsters. You may find those better suited to your purposes.

After Care Treatment: (+1 Durability, +1 Functionality)

With your brand new parts kicking into high gear, you need to be aware of proper care for you to maximize their functionality. Proper use of lubrication goes a long way. This is especially true to the G18c where it contains a lot of moving parts from the full auto mechanism. Thus, it's it is important to know what to lubricate and what type of lubricant you should be using.

I have a technical background in machining specifically dealing with automotive parts before becoming a journalist and for the life of me, I can't understand why airsoft retailers advise the use of silicone for metal on metal contact.

Silicone oil is horrible for metals as some machinist will tell you. They are very light and are easily dispersed once you fire your first shot. Thus, the constant need for lubrication after each game.

What you need is proper metal on metal lubrication. Superlube is the best you can find at relatively low price. Most hardware stores, except frigging Canadian Tire, carry Superlube. A tube of this stuff should last you for years. I've had mine for nearly 1 and half years and it's only half done.

But that's not to say that silicone doesn't have its uses. Silicone oil should only be used for the plastic components on your Glock. Only use 100% silicone oil. Never any of that synthetic stuff as they contains ingredients that will eat away your plastic components. Also, if you have a 6.01 bore on your barrel, it is ideal for you to put a bit of silicone down the barrel to help the BBs along. Do also note not to spay your hop up rubber with silicone. It will absorb it and will warp. You don't want that.

So what should you be lubricating? Here is a list and what to use:

On the Slide

1). The chamber and ejecting port need a very minute amount of Superlube. Depending on which barrel and slide combination you have, they will grind and eat each other. Superlube grease should help the chamber slide smoothly beneath the ejection port.

2). The fire-selector mechanism on the G18c needs Superlube. Again very little. Put some beneath the sight screw post on part18c-22 and 18c-20.

On the Frame assembly:

1). From time to time, the magazine chamber needs a bit of silicone to help the magazine glide along with ease

2). Every part of the hammer assembly needs to be treated with Superlube. This the most high stress point of the gun and adequate lubrication is a must to prevent wearing. Treat parts 48 to 61 with Superlube. Make it a goal to lube up the sear and the hammer.

3). The contact point between the trigger bar and the trigger needs to be treated with either/or silicone or Superlube. If you don't have the aluminum GunsModify trigger installed, use silicone. If you do, use Superlube.

4). The magazine release and the magazine release spring needs to be treated with silicone.

5). The slide guide rails need to treated with Superlube or silicone depending on the material of your slide. For ones made out of plastic, use silicone.

So to summarize, use proper lubrication in all the right places and that Glock of yours will take care of you in the field by minimizing the chance of for it to fail. Also, do note that you have to let the newly installed parts marry with one another. You wont get a 100% smoothness in terms of ROF but lubrication will help facilitate a strong marriage between all the parts (see what i did there?).

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post

A common thing I see is a gun that looks like it’s been floating in a vat of silicone oil. This is not the right way of lubricating your gun. Nor is soaking it in Hoppes #9 or CLP. What you’ll want to do is use grease any time there is a metal to plastic or metal to metal contact point. Silicone should only be used on rubber seals, such as the piston head. White lithium grease is a tad too light for this usage, so I recommend Permatex Ultra Slick for most applications, with Permatex Brake Lubricant for extreme applications where the Ultra Slick is dispersing too quickly. These greases will remain on their contact points for the long term, unlike silicone oil, which will blow off extremely quickly due to its properties as a liquid.

When lubricating a Glock, you’ll want to lubricate the following areas with grease:

- Slide rails
- Recoil rod
- Inside the top of the slide
- Hammer assembly

Save the silicone oil for the piston and your magazines. Remember, less is more. Take it easy on the grease. Too much will slow everything down.


An airsoft Glock is extremely tolerant of abuse and a lack of care, but cleaning your gun will ensure that your investment lasts a long time, and that your gun will go bang when you need it to. Lucky for you, it’s easy to clean these guns. Start by field stripping the gun. This will separate it into the barrel, slide, recoil rod, and frame. Wipe down all of these components with a rag or shop towel to remove any excess fouling. You’ll then want to clean these items with All Purpose Cleaner (APC), then lubricate them before reassembling. With lubricant, less is more.


You’ll want to run a cleaning cloth on a cleaning rod through the barrel first, followed by a rag soaked with APC, then back to the dry cloths until the cloth comes out of the barrel clean. Use a Q-Tip soaked in APC to clean the hopup bucking gently, then a new Q-Tip to dry it out.


You’ll want to focus your cleaning on the inside of the slide, as well as any part of the nozzle you can reach. Q-Tips will allow you to reach small areas. Hit it with APC, then dry it with a clean cloth. You’ll want to focus on the nozzle, and the grooves where the slide rides.

Recoil Rod

Not much to it. Pull the spring all the way towards one end, and wipe down the rod. Hit it with APC if you want, though the nature of the rod means very little grime remains after cycling.


You’ll want to clean it externally, then clean the slide rails and the action, as well as the trigger group. Q-Tips help. The magwell is an often neglected area, so really clean it. You will need a lot of APC for the magwell. Ensure the hammer is clean and that the rest of the hammer assembly is clear of debris.

Gas Types:

You can use either duster gas or green gas/propane with any of the Tokyo Marui Glocks. Duster gas for the lighter plastic stock slide and Green Gas/propane for the heavier aftermarket slides. Stock Tokyo Marui Glocks are among the highest quality gas blowback pistols on the market internally. The internals are spec'ed for use with duster gas but can handle green gas/propane just fine.

Green gas/propane usage and the subsequent failure of the slide is case by case scenario. Some owners have been using green gas/propane for years on their stock TM Glocks and haven't broke. Whereas some owners are not so fortunate. But nevertheless, you should probably make the necessary gas adjustment based on what you have put into your gun. The heavier you make the slide assembly the more power the Glock will require to move it.

The frame is another story. Again, the front screw casing is very weak and can't stand up to the pressure of Green Gas/Propane. It just a matter of time before it does. Check once in while if that casing is cracked. If it is, you can still strengthen it by putting JB Weld around it to help it brace the impact. If it's shredded, then you may need to just JB Weld your chassis to your frame.


Now, it's important to know which kind of BBs you should be using. This is applicable with ANY gun you are using for any type of scenario. The airsoft world and its proliferation has spawned countless numbers of BB manufacturers. Some retail places here in Canada even have their own line of BBs. You can pick whatever you want. But don't EVER buy ones from stores that don't specialize in airsoft gear or supplies like Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire. These brands, no matter what anyone will tell you, are just horrible. They tend to scratch up or in some cases break and destroy your inner barrel. If not, they leave a flaky residue inside your bore that can hinder the bullets trajectory and power.

Here are some BB manufacturers that should be noted for use your Glock:

These guys have been around for a while and still I use these primarily. I use these on all types of bores and found them to be one of the best on the market. The G26 loves these things. They are slick and perform on a tried and tested formula. Can't say anymore than that.

BB Bastards:
They have been regarded for a long time as one of the best BBs to use even with modern inclusions or 'new' inventions of bb ammunition. But with the inception BB Bastard ammunition, many airsofters, including myself, found a new favorite. And rightfully so. Bastard bullets are the choice for for any type of scenario with any type of bore for any type of player. I've been running with .20g of Bastards on a Raven PDI 6.03 97mm TB barrel and have yet to have a single jam.

These are also good quality BBs. Not as high, IMO, as Bastard or Excel but they work real well with the wider bore inner barrels.

I had these for years and never bothered to use them because they are very problematic. These BBs tend to jam on your gun because they are a bit oversized. The intention of this design is for purely for cost effectiveness. Guarder thought that If you can't buy a tight bore barrel, why not make the BBs slightly larger so that it can simulate the tight bore effect? It does work to a certain effect but again, these bb's tend to jam both on your magazine and your hop-up unit because of their size. So be careful.

Tokyo Marui Brand BBs:
These are highly recommended for use in conjunction with any tightbore barrels. I only shot a few hundred of these so i might be a little biased. They work real well with the 03 and 02 bores. They jam from time to time on 01s.

These are just some of the higher quality BBs. Everyone has a choice for which BB's to use thus opening up a good open debate about which brand to use. Some may notice differences in performance others may not. So use these to your discretion.

Cross Compatibility with Other Brands:

KJW, WE and HK3 are just three of the brands that copies Tokyo Marui’s Glock. The theory is that you will be able to fit the clone brands’ internal components to a TM Glock. But in retrospect, why would you want to? Marui is the crème de la crème of airsoft pistols. I suppose if you really needed to, you could swap parts but I would suggest you upgrade the broken part or get a TM replacement.

Though this is common knowledge by now, it's worth noting that KSC/KWA parts are not useable with Tokyo Marui internals. KSC/KWA's internal set up is much more complicated than Tokyo Marui's. Thus, their parts are proprietary meaning parts are specifically catered to their system.


This system is not compatible with the Marui G17. It uses a Glock 18c BBU and Hammer assembly.
Even on the Glock 18c, there are still numerous things that can't be used on the Marui System. These are:

-Outer Barrel
-Slide (has different dimensions)
-Floating valve
-Floating Valve Blocker
-Front sight (although it can be modified to fit)

-Safety Serial plate
-Front screw
-Every piece of the chassis needs to be there to complete the swap
-Hammer housing
-Full auto sear (sometimes)
-Trigger to trigger bar fitment is a bit off

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post


For the love of god, avoid these guns. The frames are cheap plastic and the mold quality is poor at best. The slides are brittle and poorly fitted onto the frames, and the best part about these guns is the carrying case they come in. A reputable gun doctor I spoke with refuses to work on these guns anymore - they don’t fit anything, they’re incredibly variable in quality, and the sad thing is a better gun is not much more. This is the Hi-Point of airsoft guns - a gun that's ugly, poorly built, and only has the promise of going bang every time you pull the trigger... and it even doesn't do that right. Issues I saw in a five minute period holding one of these guns were:

- Inconsistent blowback
- Failure to feed
- Failure to lock open when empty
- Structural failure of slide, causing fragmentation of slide nose


Not that bad anymore. Early models were known for barrel fractures and poor quality. The latest models are superb. If you can, get the HK models - these come with accurate markings. Get these guns if you’re looking for a great gun out of the box, and you don’t plan on making a build out of it. Great polymer too. Paint isn’t the greatest, but you can’t win them all.


They don’t make a full sized Glock, just a Glock 19 and some other models. Only partially compatable with TM pistols. To quote: “The worst pistol KJW has made.” Incredibly gritty trigger pull, lacks trigger safety, and the nozzle and piston head are not fitted very well. The slides are pretty nice though, same for the stock sights.


So what should I upgrade?

I almost don’t want to answer this question but I’ve been getting so much e-mails that I figure to just answer them here on a public forum.

So you’ve got a stock Tokyo Marui Glock, do ya? What should you be looking after? Let me put it this way: don’t upgrade unless you feel a drop in performance of your pistol or if something breaks. I can’t tell you how many unnecessary things I find on these Glocks that I fix. Most of the time, they are broken because the parts that the owner bought has been installed wrong or it just doesn’t marry well with other parts of the gun. Thus, the gun “doesn’t cycle properly” or “the slide gets stuck” or “this thing is eating too much gas” !?.

The GunsModify adjustable trigger, for example, can’t adjust the trigger pull because it doesn’t work with the trigger lever.

Understand that these Tokyo Marui pistols can handle green gas with minimal need to upgrade. But if you’re persistent on getting some upgrades done, here are some things to consider.


Basic configuration:
-Slide/ Barrel Set: Metal Slide/barrel set (usually sold together)
-Enhanced recoil spring guide
-Guarder Enhanced frame (or install the full Guarder tune up kit)

For durability, just run duster gas on that sucker and it will last you a lifetime.

For use with green gas, look after your slide. If you want to run green gas with a plastic slide, install some shock buffers on your recoil spring to absorb some of the shock.

If your slide breaks while running green gas, find a metal slide replacement with the adequately powered recoil spring. A 150% is ideal for a quick a snappy return. The Shooter’s Design spring is wonderful for this.

Also, the loading nozzle tends to break with prolonged use with green has on the G17. Wait til it breaks and replace it.

On the frame, the front screw casing will almost likely be the only thing to break or if not, the first thing. The screw casing is very weak and WILL crumble under the prolonged use of green gas. For some this may take a few hundred rounds and for others it may take thousands. But rest assured, this screw casing will break at some point or another. Especially on a Glock 18c where the repeated full auto setting will come in to play and shred the casing altogether. Install, some shock buffers at the very least if you're running on stronger springs.


Basic configuration:
-Metal slide/barrel set
-High Blowoff valve
-Enhanced recoil spring and spring guide w/ enhanced hammer spring
-Tighbore Inner Barrel
-Good Airseals (piston head/bucking)
-Modified floating valve

For power, use green gas. Do all the durability upgrades. You’ll need to install a high flow blow off valve on your magazine(s) to give you that extra oomph. You may also want to look into procuring a tighter bore on your inner barrel with a good hop-up bucking to give you a slight increment on your FPS.


Basic configuration:

-Tighbore Inner Barrel
-Good hop-up bucking
-Properly tuned hop-up

A good tightbore inner barrel will give the accuracy boost you need while giving you some added firepower. You’re bucking should also be looked after. I find that the stock bucking is good but the after market products greatly increased my accuracy with the G18c.

Gas consumption:

Basic Configration:
-Stock floating valve
-Enhanced piston head/lid
-Enhanced hammer spring
-Enhanced loading nozzle
-Good hop up bucking
-GOOD Tightbore

Good gas consumption is based on your pistol’s airflow, mainly the seals. The piston and floating valve will improve your gas consumption by providing a better air seal inside the loading nozzle once your magazine discharges green gas/propane or duster gas and thus prevents gas from going where it shouldn’t.

Rate of Fire (G18c):

Basic Configuration:
-High Output Blowoff valve
-Enhanced floating valve
-Enhanced piston head/lid
-Enhanced hammer spring/recoil spring
-Aluminum slide/barrel

For a higher rate of fire, you want a very light slide assembly with good airflow in your gun. The lighter you make it, the higher ROF you’ll achieve and the better the airflow, the faster the blowback. If this what you are trying to achieve, do not go for the steel barrels. It will drop your ROF because of its weight. Same goes for the metal loading nozzles. You will also want to adequately lubricate your gun to reduce the friction.

Originally Posted by MaybeStopCalling View Post


Many airsofters fall into the trap that they must upgrade things in order to make their gun better. While not entirely accurate, the airsoft guns of today are coming out of the box ready to go, and upgrading should be done on a basis of necessity. That is, unless required, one should not upgrade their gun. That being said, a hopup bucking and barrel are often the best changes one can make, followed by a hammer spring (if light striking) and a new piston head. Your needs will vary.


One thing I want to hit the brakes on is trigger modifications. The Glock has an excellent trigger for 90% of airsoft uses. It's a two stage trigger with a light takeup that runs into a wall. Pushing past this wall is akin to breaking a glass rod. It's hard and sudden with minimal creep. The rest of the pull is even shorter, with next to no overtravel. Reset quick, loud, and clear. A 150% hammer spring will make that break a little harder and less mushy. Unlike other pistols, there are no active safeties on a Glock. Your safety is you not pulling the trigger. Now, the real Glock can be modified for trigger weight and profile - you can have it as the aforementioned two stage, a consistent heavy pull, and anywhere from 2 to 12 pounds in trigger weight. On the airsoft one, you're at 2 pounds, if you're lucky. My personal gun comes in at 2.25 pounds to break the trigger. The recommended weight for a duty gun is at least 4 pounds.

So, why am I bringing this up? Because the market is full of Glock triggers that say they'll reduce travel and make the trigger pull shorter, more like the 1911. That's great, the 1911 trigger is amazing. New triggers feel awesome too. But the 1911 has two active safeties, and the Glock does not. Unless you're using the gun for IPSC or competition, a 2 pound hair trigger is a dangerous thing. Sure it might not be a real gun, but that pellet can do harm off of a negligent discharge, such as one from holstering, catching it on a branch or environment, or from unintentional contact of a finger, say in a stressful situation... like being shot at.

TL : DR - If it's not a competition gun, stop messing with the trigger's engagement profile.


The front rail block of a TM pistol and its clones is held down by a screw that connects vertically to the frame. That means that all the recoil will shear perpendicular to the screw’s orientation. Given the weaker plastic material the screw beds into, it’s only a matter of time before this pin shatters. What helps is packing the void that sits right behind the screw hole, but the ultimate way to prevent this problem is to drill a hole through one side of the pistol, to the other, through the front rail block where the slide lock spring sits, and to pin it in place with a metal rod. This modification has been posted before in this thread, looks realistic, and solves the issue, even after several thousand rounds. A drill press is recommended for this operation, and a nylon frame (Read: Not a TM frame) is required for durability.

While you’re in there, an easy modification is to remove the tag safety. Japanese laws require a safety on all guns, and well… the Glock doesn’t come with an active safety. Deleting this will remove this rarely used function, and perhaps more importantly, prevent your trigger from locking up under recoil. A couple of guns have passed through my hands, where the user described the gun locking up during rapid fire, or hard impact. Not something you want happening when you need the gun to go bang, and not something you want happening when you have an accessory mounted, making said switch inaccessible. To fill the gap left behind, Guarder makes blank tags that fit the void.


Not so much on TM pistols, but for pistols that come from the factory with a metal slide, or if you’re trying to get a new slide onto your pistol, the action tends to be rough and gritty. Worst case, it’ll barely move due to friction and tight tolerances. This is a side effect of the paint applied to these items. What you can do is apply small dabs of metal polish inside the slide rails of the slides, and cycle it back and forth manually on the pistol until the action starts to smooth out. Less is more. What the metal polish does is it smooths out the roughness of the surface coating, making the slide cycle more smoothly than as it came from the factory. Of note is you do not want to overdo this - it’s much easier to remove material than it is to add. This means you must positively clean up all the metal polish when done. I’ve seen this to be most beneficial on WE/HK Glock pistols.


Repeat after me: “Barrel wobble when the slide is unlocked is okay.” When the barrel is tilted and the slide is back, it doesn’t matter how much your barrel wobbles, as long as it’ll load a BB. This is a side effect of the Browning action used on the real Glock. What this means is, when your slide comes back forward, it will push the barrel forward and up, locking the chamber into the ejection port. It is only at this stage that you should be worried about barrel wobble. You can test for barrel wobble by doing the following: With the pistol unloaded and verified clear, push forward on the back of the slide. Shake the gun. If you can hear the barrel rattling in the slide, you have a barrel wobble issue. If you can’t, use your other hand to push the barrel muzzle around its cutout in the slide. It should not feel loose. if it does, you have a barrel wobble issue. If it feels gummy, or stiff, your gun is perfectly fine. Remember - if there is no wobble at all… your gun isn’t going to cycle. It’s simply too tight. Get a revolver if this is an issue.

This is why I wince when I see users modify the chamber area of their slides to unlock from the slide with greater ease. Specifically, filing a 45 degree slope into the top forward chamber area, so it rides under the slide more easily. While it improves cycling, it significantly impacts lockup, which kills your precision.
As I said, run the gun in stock form until/if something breaks. Then do your upgrades. Upgrading is not necessarily a must in airsoft pistols because you’ll have a primary gun to use. Thus, all your money will go towards your Innokatsu 2011 Supergrade version with all the tactical fixings.

Final Summation: (+1 Knowledge, -1000000000000 Dollars)

I probably got some these facts wrong. The basic jist of this whole article is to advise you to just be mindful of the things you are buying for your Glock. While some reputable manufacturers may boast higher quality, their parts may hinder the performance of your gun due to improper fitting.

And while I would love to answer the age-old question of “what should I upgrade”, I am afraid that without sufficient information of your personal preferences and the functionality/condition of your Glock, I cannot give a profound and meaningful answer.

You can read up on:
Smart and not so smart upgrades (repost, long).

FAQ for Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa, 2011, 1911, MEU & Detonics type variants

Why do I need to upgrade (or not) - with explanations!:Upgrades & Modifications to help you get started.

Though these FAQS are for different guns, the basic principle knowledge you gain from reading them is applicable and invaluable. If knowledge is power, then your power level will be ovvverrrrrr 9000!!!! after reading them. SO read read read read. If you have any questions, post them down below. Someone will be with you shortly.

This guy was my WoW character. His stats? 100% awesome
"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men."

Last edited by e-luder; April 18th, 2016 at 16:09.. Reason: ***UPDATED***
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Old May 13th, 2012, 10:21   #2
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Very nice write-up. Love the RPG style attributes!!
H&K G36c (KWA) / Glock 18c (TM) / Kimber LAPD SWAT Custom (TM) / Mossberg M500 (ACM)

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Old May 13th, 2012, 13:12   #3
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Excellent post, especially with the list of manufacturers and quality/cross-compatibility comments. Makes we want to buy a TM Glock now just to try this.

Vote for a sticky!
The Three Sisters - WE G39 E/K/C
Originally Posted by kalnaren View Post
Stalker stays where he is.
His BB's fly across the country to hit their target.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 14:01   #4
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Now I'm wondering if the compensator and grip extension from the Glock 26 Advance is available for separate purchase....then that way, you can take it off or leave it on for a concealable pistol or just a full sized one.

Also...WoW! I didn't play, but my friend did, and he said that it made his grades drop like 20% and his daily life go down the drain.....not something I think I want to experience.
VFC SR416 ZTW - TM Type 89 Zet - TM NGRS SCAR-L Laylax

TM G17 Loki Tactical Pink - TM G19
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Old May 13th, 2012, 14:02   #5
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+1 for sticky. Very useful.
"Mah check"

Now you know

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Old May 13th, 2012, 15:15   #6
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Awesome writeup! As an owner of a TM G17, this is invaluable.

TM Glock 17
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Old May 13th, 2012, 20:01   #7
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Originally Posted by Freeze View Post
Now I'm wondering if the compensator and grip extension from the Glock 26 Advance is available for separate purchase....then that way, you can take it off or leave it on for a concealable pistol or just a full sized one.
I've never seen these sold separately. Either that or i just never looked hard enough. Coincidentally though, even with this comp and extended magazine, the pistol is still relatively small. It's almost the size of a g19. The g26 is so damn small!!!!!
"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men."
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Old May 13th, 2012, 20:17   #8
will always be Mike Litoris in our hearts
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superb guide. Glad we have someone knowledgeable and willing to share the info with us.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 22:40   #9
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One of the most entertaining guides I've read! I sure damn hope it gets stickied! Now Illusion needs to do one for the Hi-Capa!

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Old May 14th, 2012, 15:36   #10
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Originally Posted by THe_Silencer View Post
One of the most entertaining guides I've read! I sure damn hope it gets stickied! Now Illusion needs to do one for the Hi-Capa!
He already has one and the knowledge he imparts on there is quite superior to this one. I hope this was as informative as his. day.
"May you fight with the strength of ten full grown men."
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Old May 14th, 2012, 15:46   #11
Likes it BOLD attention whore MAXIMUS!
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Outstanding work my friend.....!!! a fellow glock whore....this should be stickied !!!
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Old May 14th, 2012, 16:01   #12
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You missed one upgrade. This:

VFC SR416 ZTW - TM Type 89 Zet - TM NGRS SCAR-L Laylax

TM G17 Loki Tactical Pink - TM G19
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Old May 14th, 2012, 16:13   #13
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I will reiterate that this is a great guide, even more so with the edits and additions.

Now, I'm just waiting for the following to occur...

A battlefield on a hot summer day. The shots fired at close range. The "whizz" of BBs flying past the target, bouncing off trees. And the shout/curse, "DAMMIT, I did ALL the MODS! Where's my +27 to hit?!?"

The Three Sisters - WE G39 E/K/C
Originally Posted by kalnaren View Post
Stalker stays where he is.
His BB's fly across the country to hit their target.
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Old May 14th, 2012, 16:17   #14
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You have to be level 61 to get that stat boost
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Old May 15th, 2012, 01:47   #15
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Originally Posted by e-luder View Post
You have to be level 61 to get that stat boost
What do you think about the AIP hammer set for TM G17 and G18C?
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