Hey, did the tappet plate issue get fixed? as my gun is having feeding issues, but i havent figured out if its the hop up, or the lones tappet. Also, whats you guy's compression like on the drop in boxes? i tested it, and it seems to be subpar (sealing the nozzle and pushing piston into cylinder)

As far as I know it's been fixed. The issue was really obvious.

Unhook the spring and turn the sector to pull the tappet plate back. If it gets pulled all the way backwards so that the face touches the cylinder, then you're good to go.

390fps sounds right for the box. I did notice the recent boxes getting a generous amount of piston head grease. Get rid of the excess and clean the cylinder with some dish soap. You should get a decent seal after.

BTW they're testing EVERY single one of these boxes at factory- something that wasn't done before.

Ill try that, thks. Just ordered a new piston and piston head, as i blew the one that came with the box up (pre engagement) using a 11.1 lipo. time to break out the drill i guess :p

I am going to replace the gear box in my one of my G&P and VFC. Does the Lonex drop into these without mods?

Yes.

Rabbit had to remove the rubber pad at the back of the lower receiver.
The Lonex shell is actually cloned off a VFC mold sooo yea.

I thought you were on vacation. :p

well, just put a lonex m4 hop up in my 416, but now i seem to be getting less than 300 fps instead of the 380 i was getting before (lonex sp120 box with sorbo). perfect seal on the piston side of things, and the hop up is seated in the mech box correctly (i switched buckings from a 70 hardness to a 50, but it doesnt seem to have made a noticeable difference). Any ideas?

Are you using a new barrel group or your old one in the 416?

As you've probably surmised, you have an airleak...somewhere. I suspect it's between the nozzle and hop-rubber/unit.

Will Lonex produce a V2 gear box for easy spring change out?

No. For the simple reason being that by the time you get to the part where the rear is exposed, you may as well open it up the normal way.

The only benefit of "quick-change" gearboxes are in guns where the rear of the mechbox is accessible without removing the mechbox. (ie: A&K M249, PTS PDR-C)

As for the ones currently floating in the market, I have yet to see a quick change gearbox executed properly with the correct dimensions and specifications.

What is the weight of the PTW Dytac UXR 4 13" in grams?

The only benefit of "quick-change" gearboxes are in guns where the rear of the mechbox is accessible without removing the mechbox. (ie: A&K M249, PTS PDR-C)



Sorry my friend but putting the mechbox together without the spring is much easier

this much is true... but some really nice mechboxes don't get all squirrelly when you have the arl or trigger in so you don't need spider hands to keep them in. A vfc gearbox you can put everything in the half and pull your hands away and nothing comes flying out.

Let me elaborate further - when are you in a situation where by the time you expose the rear of the mechbox (in the case of an AR15 platform - when you have the mechbox completely removed) where you would want to ONLY swap springs? I'd imagine any competent or diligent gunsmith would want to open up the mechbox to inspect the internals for wear and re-lubricate the mechbox at that juncture. Especially if you've spent the time in removing the mechbox - which in some cases such as ambidextrous-controlled bodies (VFC KAC series) is actually more work than opening the mechbox itself.

Having said that, I recognize that there are now metal bodies which allow the rear of the mechbox to be accessed - but so far they have been very poor executions of the idea with janky dimensions and markings.

On another note - all current Lonex drop-in mechboxes are now shipping with the Extreme Toughness piston.

We've tested this piston up to 565fps @ 25rps. Yup, so if you're blowing up your Lonex red piston - you're doing something wrong.