Hey man, you would have to do anything to the exterior of the brass tube? Mine is a little scratched up... So I wanted to see if that was something else that would need attention.. Ah, and I'm very sorry to hear about whats going on at home..

Operation with a properly lubed magazine should cause enough residual silicone oil to reach the exposed outer brass. The problem with manually lubing the brass is that it's very easy to over lube, and the system is self lubing for that part, by firing the gun with lubed propane.

In short. I don't lube it, I have some scratches. Ultimately doesn't effect the rifles performance.

Sorry for the late reply.

Alright cool, thanks. I was thinking that as well so I left it.

Actually something interesting happened to mine today..

The nylon piece on my bolt carrier seemed to have came loose and slid its way up the nozzles guide rod and jammed everything up..

So I would advise people to keep an eye on that seeing as how whatever they used to bond the nylon there, likes to break..


Cab

I recently had the same thing happen to mine. Here's the solution.

THINGS YOU NEED:
Flat head screwdriver.
Thin, strong hex L wrench, or similar tool.
3M Super Glue, or similar. Don't cheap out.
Large pliers.
Electrical Tape.
1 hour and 10 minutes of your time.

Remove Bolt from gun.

Remove screw from back of bolt. It should be a flat head. There is an Oring on the open side, and an oring on the screw / rod side. Don't worry about the oring on the rod side, you will likely destroy it doing the next part. It is NOT a critical oring.

Remove the rod (I use a hex L wrench and twist it out of the bolt).

Clean the back of the bolt area where the nylon will be going, and the back of the nylon piece which will be touching the rear of the bolt. Apply super glue to the back of the bolt, and the inner walls (try not to get any into the threading for the screw).

Using a large pair of pliers, with electrical tape on the two jaws of the pliers to reduce scoring on the metal and nylon. Use the pliers to squeeze the nylon back up into the rear of the bolt (put the lower jaws on the bottom of the nylon, and top jaws on the back of the bolt, and lever it into place).

Let it cure for an hour.

Replace the rod and the screw (with oring).

The white nylon shouldn't move anytime soon. This is effectively what they do at the factory, only the Taiwanese super glue is crap.

I'd suggest that while it's assembled and the white spacer is pushed as far to the rear as it'll go that you make note of how far short it is of the very end of black tube (piston). On mine (and many others I've seen) it doesn't sit right at the very end, but rather about 1-1.5mm up.

If you do as SP describes and have it set too far back the assembly with either not seat far enough back or else you risk breaking the bond and/or stripping the threads trying to tighten it back with force.

really thanks is just what i wanted !!!!!
how many times in a week or in month i must clean it ?

sorry for my questions but im a newbie with this gbb is my seconnd day!!!

and one more question u recomend me one mag more of co2 or green gas?

thanks

I clean the night before the game, and after the game when I get home, either that night or the next day.

really thanks

and what do u think about me new mag green gas or one more of co2?

I was only able to find this Ultra Slick tube locally, would it work or is the Brake Grease to thick or something?
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/6...kbrakelube.jpg

As long as there's no Petroleum Distillates. However, I believe that will be too thick (someone correct me if I'm wrong). At canadian tire, they have the same synthesis grease used in the cleaning guide you need.

The back of the label on this stuff says it's safe to use on rubber and plastics, but the consistency of the stuff is about that of hair gel. I assume this is to thick.

I'll check Canadian Tire, hopefully they have the stuff in the guide.

EDIT - Got some of the Ultra-Slick stuff shown in this guides first post from Canadian Tire (thanks Shrapnel) and also picked up some motor master silicone lubricant to function as my "medium weight" silicon spray. I'm actually working on a WE SCAR and not an M4 but maybe you guys can provide a couple tips on where to apply the Ultra-Slick vs heavy/light silicon oils? I already used the heavier spray in the lower receiver for the trigger group.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/466/18lube.gif
I can see wear on the bottom here where it's highlighted with red.

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/8628/17lube.gif
Ultra-Slick on the red area (heavy)?
Motor Master silicone spray on the yellow area wheel things (medium)?
GBB Oil on the green area (light)?

That about right? Any other places to cover on the SCAR?

That looks about right. Don't forget the medium oil on the stabilizer rod as well.

Im installing a NPAS so I took out everything needed but now im having issues with the white plastic block in the bolt carrier, how far does it need to be from the back of the bolt carrier and has anyone had any trouble getting the assembly to pass through it?

what to use and what not to use
 

Great guide ShelledPants. I will be getting a WE PDW in by the end of next week and I will be using this guide as a base on how to take care of it.

I just picked up:
1.5wt 100% silicone oil from airsoft innovations for my Light lubing
15wt 100% silicone oil for my medium lubing
80wt 100% silicone oil for heavy lubing

I'm just wondering instead of Super Lube/ Ultra Slick could I use something else such as 80wt 100% pure silicone oil instead? I wasn't able to find Super Lube/ Ultra Slick. I'm hoping the 80wt silicone 100% oil can substitute instead.

Thanks

Sorry bud, i have no experience with heavyweight silicone oil. Maybe someone else will chime in.