I'm still not sure about picking this up, I might just stick with a Katana and save for a PTW later on.

It does have some flaws but the externals are great, it does need some new parts but its still a cheap PTW once you get the kinks worked out. My buddy is having feeding issues with his currently. I have it on my desk as he can't seem to figure it out so I'll see whats happening and write back. Electronics I added some thin heatsinks to and seems to be maintaining the heat better, since this is a part that will overheat and break.

I downgraded the spring to an M115 and it sounds so much better, and able to run off a9.6V easily. I would definitely stay away from LiPo as the power electronics boards would heat up and toast pretty quickly. Also downgrade the spring before you shoot it, as it struggles quite a bit even with a 12V to pull it, with weak electronics I definitely don't recommend it.

But it also isn't 100% PTW compatiable, the lower doesn't mesh with a PTW upper and vice versa as the body pins are slightly off size

I hear a lot of talk about LiPos and the circuit boards. Would a MOSFET, like say a Gate MERF do something to mitigate that? This is pure speculation.

PTW Circuits work differently than AEG Circuits so a GATE MERF wouldn't work as you don't have the correct contacts. You could figure it out and hard wire it in to make it work.

It follows the same idea as the 07 and older generation circuits, but quite a bit weaker. Its the same reason why 07 don't recommend Lipo or else it'd burn out quite quickly the good thing about the A&K is the stock is 100% PTW compatable so Systema batteries fit into it nicely.

I did a heatsink mod to my buddies, I can email it or try to post it here to see if anyone else is interested on what I did but I haven't done durability or reliability on it yet to see if it can handle a full game or how long it last.

If I'm not mistaken there is some sort of MOSFET already in the buffer tube

There is one for sale at "asiaRsoft.com" and they also have an "AIRO" PTW as well:

http://asiarsoft.com/index.php?8bdab...2f2d=M4A1-ATW1

They are very sensitive to power spikes, the one I witnessed smokin was from a 14.8 Systema LiPo

I wouldn't trust the A&K to lipo the electronics are so fragile, I am scared they will burn out just by looking at them.

Well the night in HK where all of us were playing the rep for A&K and FM crew brought out their new toys (A&K and the Airo) seeing that all the FCC guys are running 14.8V LiPo they try to do the same but the first to go was the AIRO with two of their new guns went down on the staging area, one of tehm were actually smoking. Then the stock A&K went down but not the done up version (it was rigged with a slew of other parts from FCC and Systema)

We were all playing with M150 cylinder at the end of the night the 4 guys from A&K three of them were using FCC Loaner guns and teh FM crew pack up and left after they couldn't get their guns running.

would it run ok with a gen ace 7.4v lipo 2200mah 25c?

Update:

Received my Velocity Grey M130 Cylinder and FCC complete inner barrel and hop up system from TW-Works.

both fit the A&K reciever perfectly.

Tested the gun with a 9.6v NiMH, it shoots fine, didn't get the weird sound I was getting last time which may be because I am using a NiMH battery and not a lipo but as I don't have any lipos around I can't confirm that.

Gun has a lot of kick which none of my previous guns has which is nice.

It does make a bit of noise which is likely due to the amount of torque the thing puts out.

Rate of fire is nothing special on the 9.6v battery but that's to be expected.

Ill add another update once i've put the gun through a field test. Which may not be for a couple weeks.

Define alot of kick?

You will get some movement translated to the body of the body of the gun from the piston slamming into the cylinder head. But it is not much.

Excessive movement of the cylinder forward and back is a sign of an under-shimmed buffer cap, or other tolerance issue. If not addressed immediately, it will lead to damage to cylinder and sector gear.

Basically, if it doesn't hurt your hand to slap the stock to split the receivers open, it is shimmed wrong. If you can open it with thumb pressure only on the charging handle while holding on to the lower, it is shimmed wrong. Poor shimming will also introduce an airseal leak which make output reduced and unpredictable.

This can also be a cause for the sounds you are hearing.

Now, tolerances are going to be little different from the base Systema, and this may make rectifying the problem (if there is one) a little touchy.

'kick' is from the piston hitting the cylinder. it doesn't occur on my other aeg's so im not used to it.

shimming seems to be ok. i have to brace the rifle before slamming the stock to crack it open, its not something i can do without effort.

as a side note i went to chrono the gun today and it is shooting between 416 and 421 fps.

also, the nub in the magazine that came with it has already broken off and disappeared. im told I may have shot it off somehow :/

The same motion and impact of the piston hitting the cylinder exists in every AEG manufactured. The only difference is in the TW platform and a few others who have adapted the mechanics of of their nozzle is in the impact loading. The motion should be pretty smooth. Even with an M150, their will be slight motion, no more than any other AEG.

A stable FPS is a good sign of minimal to no airseal leak, so motion of the cylinder between the chamber and buffer cap should be minimal. You can test it though by openning the dust cover, use a marker to mark a line on the cylinder and see if it moves during firing. If it does, shimming the buffer cap is required.

Now, all of this is contingent on the fact that the body does not flex. If you have a metal body that is intact, this is unlikely to occure. When the gun is set up properly, the lock bearing provides force against the buffer cap. This is countered by forward force against the pivot pin by the upper to balance the forces. Now that there are plastic bodies in TW clones, I expcet to see some flex there. If the barrel nut is not tight, it is a source for movement.

It may be that you are just hypersensitive to sound and movement and attributing what I would consider to be inconsequential to this gun.

most likely. my other aeg's make noise when fired but theres no 'recoil' it may just be because this ptw's higher torque. going from nothing to a tiny bit of 'recoil' is a very big difference which is why i noticed it :p