I use this sling with my S34P...

http://capitalairsoft.ca/store/index...products_id=89

I was looking at one of these at the local store, but it was for a Winchester or something. Looked very similar. Do you think it would matter?

I mean, on a real one you would need the right mounting points but if you're just going to velcro it or epoxy it on, does it matter what version you get?

From pictures that I see, I'd assume that the recievers are all roughly the same size on each shotgun.. like you said.. the body pins would be the difference. After thinking about it, I think you'd be safe with the Remington one.

Well I went to the outdoor store today and I ended up buying a TacStar side saddle.
First pic is what it looks like, probably not much different than your except for mount/pin points.

The only thing is, its not for a Benelli (Winchester) so it interferes where I circled in red with the pistol grip. This causes the rest of it to be titlted slight to the side and does not contact the receiver. I'll have to cut somewhere close to the yellow line so that I can epoxy/JB Weld it, which isn't a problem cause that part doesn't do anything for airsoft purposes.

Nice part is that it hooks into edge of the shell compartment and the curved edge on the top contacts the receiver without issue! I just hope (and I think it is) that the metal slab I have to cut is aluminum or something. Hacksaw to the rescue!

Oh, and the shells are WAY too tight, not just a little like you said? Any techniques for removing material inside the holders?

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...k/IMG_2687.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...k/IMG_2690.jpg

Ah.. I forgot that you're using the TM original pistol grip.. the saddle will over lap that one. I have the G&P stock on mine which comes with a new pistol grip.. it doesnt flair out like the TM one does. You can cut that off with a saw.. but you'll want to epoxy the saddle to that backing plate as it keeps everything flat.. without it, the saddle will bend and you'll have a hard time getting shells in and out.. even after modding it.

As for the shells being tight, you'll have to use a file or dremel to open up the holes a bit. As I stated before, you'll want to remove a bit of the lips to open the gap in the holes (guestamate about 2-3mm on each side of the gap, keep testing the shells as you go). If you look at my pic, you'll see how much material I've cut out.

I'll want to epoxy the shell holder part to the metal slab? You sure? It seems pretty damn solid with the 6 screws.
And is cutting off the lips/fingers the only thing you did, or you do have to file inside as well?

If you're cutting the back end off of the plate and saddle so it doesnt overlap the flair on the pistol grip.. you'll be removing two of the screws.. this is the only reason I mention using epoxy there.

I filed inside the shell holders as well, use a fine grid sandpaper to smooth everything out when you're done.. or it'll tear the stickers off the shells.. which isnt something that I really worry about.. but you might.

PS.. sorry about being pretty foggy on all this.. it's been 6 or 7 months since I went thought it.


EDIT: You're losing only one screw hole.. never mind the epoxy part.. I just took a closer look at the picture.

Oh no man, it's all good information.

And nooooooo, I'd just be cutting at the yellow line, all screws would be intact as you can see :p

Bottom line, the whole thing is trial and error.. just keep checking with a shell.

Which is only used on the real steel, so I'm good :D