Base:

Tokyo Marui - MEU (Night Warrior)

External Upgrades:

Hurricane Kimber Custom Covert II (Aluminum Slide and Frame, steel controls)

Internal Upgrades:

Nineball/Laylax tightbore barrel (6.01)
Nineball/Laylax hop rubber
Extra strong recoil spring
Frame and Slide Lapping

340 FPS, full 30+ rounds per magazine gas efficiency.

That trigger slack can be taken up by either swapping out to an adjustable trigger stirrup, or the super-cheap way is to add material to the front of the trigger stirrup. I've used tape as a shim in the past. Some people will glue a cut down BB there - whatever works best for you. Keep in mind, that with these cheaper methods, adjustment is a real pain in the ass, as you'll have to completely strip down the gun each time you need to make an adjustment. The adjustable stirrup is the easiest way.

Will do. Great advice.

I would also like to ad that I have found cutting a piece of an old credit card often is almost perfect for taking up most of the slack in hi capas. The thickness of the credit card is often just right for many of the WE and KJWs I have owned over the years.

i love TM now i know exactly why everyone says buy TM, best shooting pistol i have ever used! i will buy nothing but TM now!

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/...n/DSCN1583.jpg

http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/...ps950952ee.jpg

Build in progress. Marui 1911 Gov. as a base. I just swapped in Nova trigger, bushing, plug, a Guarder barrel, and a VFC Surefire replica.

What grips are those? and where can I get them?

So I stripped the gun down last week, and I didn't see where I could put the card to take up the slack.

On the other hand, I cleaned all the sears and relubed with super lube, the gun is a LOT less mushy in the trigger and has two clear points of trigger movement. Which is a lot better in my opinion, but I would prefer a lot less movement from first and second pressure.

EDIT: upon thinking about it some more, are you suggesting here? http://imgur.com/9X5c61l.jpeg

I usually shim up the trigger by putting a small piece of credit card on the trigger stirrup.
If you are holding your trigger stirrup and trigger in hand.
http://m0.i.pbase.com/o3/19/177719/1...6CG.AR1419.jpg
The point where the stirrup begins to curve is where I ad my shim. Ideally, the card goes right before the stirrup bends, and touches the inside of the front of the frame, which takes up some of the slack. However, it would be best to get an adjustable stirrup if possible.

Yes, that's exactly it.

The photo you're showing is of one of the ILLusion Kinetics adjustable stirrups. You'll notice a section that looks like it's cut in to a thin arm. In these stainless steel stirrups, you can actually bend that arm outwards as required. The good thing about this, is that you can do all the adjustments you need, without having to take the gun apart.

When I'm doing the "ghetto method" of just gluing material on, I try to measure the length of slack that needs to be taken up, then I find a material that matches that thickness to glue to the front of the stirrup. In my experience, going a little bit smaller than your measurement is better than going larger. This just saves you time from having to continuously take the gun apart and reassemble it as you dial in the sizing.

I bought the grips on Ebay.
Name was "Wilson Combat 1911 Wood Grips".
The material is burl.

Thanks, they are goreous

My WA Colt 1911 Mk-IV series 70 (CQB model with ambidex thumb safety, delta style grip safety and combat style hammer) ; SCW ver3
Polished all metal parts, 5KU barrel bushing, Madbull grip screw, Thailand made black shiny resin grip with Colt logo

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...psb78eccc7.jpg

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...ps56ff0f9f.jpg

Any color as long as it's ...........
Spare frame with black engine enamel baked on & added some Madbull grips
Probably the last project with engine enamel for awhile, Duracoat inbound;)
http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/...psedc78b43.jpg
http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/...psc622c531.jpg

My 1911 as of currently. Dropped the silverballer look since I didn't like it. Went with more of a two-tone look, but still love the American Legend grips. As a tip to anyone who decides to get those, loctite the screws in the medallions. One fell out during a game, had to contact Pachmayr to get a replacement. Built off a silver WE 1911.

Upgrades so far:

- 6.03 Madbull Tightbore
- Madbull Thread Adapter
- Nineball Dyna Piston Head
- A+ Hop-Up Sleeve
- Shooter's Design Steel Kimber Slide
- Nova Stainless Trigger
- Nova Steel Slide Catch
- Nova Steel Hammer + Innards

- Pachmayr American Legend Grips
- Madbull .45 Whisper Suppressor (85mm)
- Madbull Gemtech Blackside .45 Suppressor (155mm)
- WE Stock Silver Frame, Buffed + Polished


Still working on picking up a Nova steel thumb and palm safety. No intention to replace the housing as it matches the frame, and I don't intend on replacing the stock frame. Probably just going to sand off the original black off the plunger tube and repaint it matte black since I can't seem to find a black steel replacement for it.