Yes, but using these mean that you have to burn the internal fuse and you cannot reprogram it after.

I have found a chip that allows to be reprogramed WHILE on the board, with a serial interface. It uses a 12v programing signal instead of pre-initializing and using the AUX port to program.

I am working on USB interface using a very basic VB interface to program the basic functions, and an "advanced" mode to enter direct C editing.

The chip I found allows for 6 digital ports and 4 analog ports to be used. to use the 4 analog ones, you have to switch the 4 correcponding ports, but this can be done in the main loop, instead of during initialisation.

It also has 2 8bit clocks that can be set to run as a 16bit clock instead. (Where the AVR micro controler only has one 8bit clock)

This allows for a more accurate reading. It also has a built-in analog comparator, usefull for the idea of voltage selector...

If the unit is programmed to run various other functions, would other batteries be needed? or could everything be ran from the same battery at the same time?

Everything can be run from the same battery.

Using a LiPo 11.1v would give a very usable 12v, that would simply have to be reduced to 5v for TTL components.

The chip I found is also made in SO-8 form factor, allowing a very small footprint. Since a mini USB port would be used for programing, there is no need to use a larger DIP-8 package.

Also, the programer is simply a 12v flash step-up regulator. The one I found is .50$.

It simply converts the 5v serial signal to 12v for programing the chip.

Angels alone are very difficult to find, let a lone Chopayyas. They remove the second to last tooth from the piston completely, and put only 11 teeth on the piston overall, extending the plate on the metal front tooth. Its a piston made specifically for short-stroked, super high-speed set ups, usually in the area of 30 rounds a second. Looks like so:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC01996.jpg

And I'd highly recommend a few if you can find them. Ive got one in my P90 running a 10.8v, deans, Systema Turbo, and Modify HS gears, (short-stroked), and I havent had a problem with it yet. Still running the original one I got after about 4 months of play every weekend with it.

Excellent idea on the variable voltage settings.. Just for the sake of being funny Id work out how to construct a voltage switch on the receiver, with settings like "meh," "fast," "SHTF," and "Zombies."

I'd love it if i could get voice output :D heheh... so it says like

8.4v - Standard Fire
9.6v - Rapid Fire
10.8 - Turbo Fire
12v - Bombardment!

Imagining people hear the bombardment setting turned on LOL. I'd $hit my pants and run like hell! lol

Yea on the picture of the gun theres a few outputs, The LCD is gonig to be this Voltage Monitoring Device. Its Damn good! Would like more LCD and Dials and gadgets on this perfornally... Its a futuristic High Tech Gun! Its got to do what its meant to do.... Will also need to test the parts as they need to be durable and resiliant to loads of use.

Only if you select the "Reset disable" fuse. And even then it's only the ISP interface you can't use anymore (you should still be able to read/reprogram the chip with the HV interface if you have a programmer that supports it).

AUX0 (pin 2) is available as an ADC input you can use all you like, and reprogram the chip all you want with the ISP interface.

But RESET (pin 1) is also AUX1. By disabling RESET your program can use the RESET pin as AUX1, but then you can no longer reprogram the chip using the ISP interface.


The new chip you found sounds pretty cool, though.

How are you planning on constructing the receiver?
I saw something about a G36, but what else will this be made out of? Id recommend making it somehow at least water resistant, but, dunno what youre going to make it out of.. Lost of plasticard? Have someone CNC machine a receiver?

I'm not entirly sure yet. Yes it will need to be water resistant as much as possible. Heatshrink will be used alot and also any circuits will be dip coated in resin/varnish to waterproof them.

CNC would be a dream come true lol but iamgine the cost for a one off custom CNC piece of work!

I could make the CAD/3D model shell i guess and do the work but the machine would need to use this and still mill out the marts. It would also need to be precision exact, so yea still not sure on this yet..

A friend of mine is a very good at welding so this maybe an option to take.

Titanium/Stainless Steel/Steel power coated etc. Hummm Loads of options so yea this sure is a longish term project but it hopefully will be awsome.

I've been looking at the Li-Poly battery route and im still not convinced to be honest. a 5000mah one is really really expensive here. $200+ and a charger would be needed too. This thing has the potentional to pi$$ out bb's so ideally i would like a backup battery pack too.

I think Ni-Mh might still be the best route for this. Not decided yet.

I don't know where you are getting your batteries...

It cost me about 120$ for a 5000mAh 11.1v battery, including shipping cost.

Also, you can use a lower capacity battery. There is no need to have a battery that you don't need to recharge more than once a month. I think that a 3000 ish one would be far enought for a 2 days game.

Remember that if you run the 11.1v pack at only the equivalent of 9.6v, you will get about 30% extra runtime. (because the motor will accelerate faster than just 9.6v and because the current will not be on full time)

A good charger will set you back only 80-100$.

DonP, the chip I plan to use is a PIC12F serie from Microchip. The fun part is that any pin can be programmed as RESET, and the chip can be programmed even if the two programming pins are used by the program. (And without disconnecting the PIC from the board)

Ahh i'm in the uk - We get Ripped on prices for things lol! hence the price hike!.. Guess i got some time to plan still.

The Gun Grip G16 Slimlines on its way and the Scope/Reddot Combi is also En route!

Batteries are not restricted import items in any country to what I know.

And you can get some at your LHS (Local hobbyshop). These are made for R/C Helicopters/planes/cars

Very true, my other intellect batteries i always import because its cheaper than here.

Also I had the G16 Grip arrive today and i'm confused. The King Arms Grip is advertised for M -series AEG's however there is no way this one will fit without heavy modification as the Grips throat that slots on to the gearbox is far too narrow.

Has anyone else had this issue? Apart from that the grip looks amazing!

I think i am doomed for every single part to need the warenty voiding thats for sure because i think i'm going to have to remove alot of plastic to get this one to fit!


***EDIT***

Ok, i have just found out why.... I got out the OLD AGM V2 Gearbox and the grip is still a tight fit but slots on fairly easily. It's the Pro-Win Gearbox, its wider than a standard one and it was just LUCK that the old AGM handle fitted on perfectly... Hummm....

Moding time !!!

Holy crap.

Good luck... and... can I have one too?

I might actually do the same thing one day when I can put the money together.

Would be cool to have another try it :) But I will have been the first ;) LOL... This is also not a project for the faint hearted heh.... Every part is modified somehow meaning mistakes = Ultra Expensive... No Warenties too ug!

Totals so far.... Bearing in mind this is nowhere near all the parts yet. No electronics, No batteries, no bodywok, no grenade launcher and grenades, no fire computer chips, no high voltage power switching, no upper rails and top custom rail setup. no box mag, no box mag internal upgrades (motor, power etc so yea lots to go!)

These prices include any postage and if i was unfortunate enough to get Customs charges (Most get through without).

A.G.M HK416 -------------- £151.99
PGC Pro-Win 8mm ----------£130.79
Prometheus Upgrades ------£85.46
Watts UP Power Monitor ----£34.46
G16 Grip -------------------£15.97
ACTION Red Dot Scope -----£20.98
Systema Turbo Motor ------£60


Total ----------------------£499.65 USD = $983.055 CAD = $1,004.27

Oh hell... I hate adding it up... It's depressing how much its costing lol! I think it will be fine in the end when its done because there is something to show for it. At the mo its alot of parts and pieces etc. I dont want to add it up agian lol.

And Unfortunatly... There is a hell of a long way to go yet!

Which sums up nicely how I have no problem letting you do it, and post your troubles and fixes first :p