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-   -   Tanio Koba / KJW M4 GBBR Basic Information and FAQ (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=96773)

daishi October 31st, 2012 10:48

Does anyone know of any mods to fix the loose buffer tube?

Mine is always loose >.> I can take my stock off and tighten it but pick it up the next day and its wobbly.

bean October 31st, 2012 11:00

add blue loctite to the threads. Not a lot just a couple drops.

daishi October 31st, 2012 11:13

I cant seem to get the buffer tube to separate from the receiver. What tool do I use to remove the lug that in front of the sling mount? Without damaging the paint and what not of course.

Rommen October 31st, 2012 11:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by daishi (Post 1720322)
I cant seem to get the buffer tube to separate from the receiver. What tool do I use to remove the lug that in front of the sling mount? Without damaging the paint and what not of course.

That is a faux lug. The buffer tube is made kind of like the barrel, there is an 'inner' buffer tube made of brass and an 'outer' buffer tube that you see. To remove the outer buffer tube, first remove your bolt carrier, buffer and return spring. Next remove the stock. On the bottom side at the back of the buffer tube you should see a small set screw (1mm IIRC). Unscrew this as well as the main buffer tube end cap, and the 'outer' buffer tube should simply slide off. You will be left with the brass 'inner' buffer tube, this is screwed into the receiver. While you can unscrew it, it is a real pita and is not necessary for most gun work.

Hope that helps! : )

daishi October 31st, 2012 11:39

Ahhh, I didn't even see that allan key screw. Tightening that seems to have fixed the outer from wobbling like crazy.

On another note, does anyone have a link to a site or thread that is picture or video heavy on how to properly lube a gbbr? I know mag maintenance, but i'm kinda sketchy and reading mixed reviews on where to apply light silicone oil and heavy weight lubricants for this m4.

What I currently do is put white lithium grease on the bolt and the buffer, then wipe it off lightly with a lint free cloth so there is only a slight layer left. I drop some silicone oil on the trigger assembly and cycle it a few times, as well as putting some on the hop up and other seals.

Any tips?

Rommen October 31st, 2012 12:02

Use light weight (10weight) silicone oil for seals such as o-rings, also use it in the buffer tube (fast motion, little mechanical wear). For where the hammer is contacted by the bolt carrier, I use Superlube with just a drop of light weight silicone oil (although I'm sure white lithium is ok too) on both the hammer and bolt carrier. You should NOT be oiling the hop-up or barrel.

So in summation you really only need a light weight silicone oil and a grease of some type, personally I recommend Superlube but there are many others that work as well.

Cj Radge October 31st, 2012 12:08

Hephaestus Steel Chargin Handle:
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...se&catid=&cat=
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/...se&catid=&cat=


Finally got mine =)

The packaging
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC03807.jpg
All Steel including the latch. (magnet test)
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC03810.jpg
Installed:
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC03811.jpg

What I noticed so far:
1. It fits just right in my old upper reciever, but its very tight in my other new upper reciever.

I haven't done any further testing yet, hehhee

Rommen October 31st, 2012 12:26

very nice, one thing to warn you about though: The steel latch will wear away very quickly at the indent in the pot metal receiver where it sits. Eventually it might not catch at all and you will have a 'loose' charging handle (sliding back and forth cause there is no latch to keep it closed). I had installed a steel catch similar to yours but noticed it quickly eating away at the receiver, even after I lubed it up. Went back to the original charging handle to save my receiver lol.

Cj Radge November 1st, 2012 23:50

Thanks Rommen for the tip. I will round the tip to lessen or prevent it and put small amount of grease. Appreciate the tip =)

Cj Radge November 11th, 2012 19:20

This is my initial test of my Scopecam.

ScopeCam Initial Test - YouTube

Target distance: 92 feet (measured via google earth) no farther target available.
Target size: Apple size
Zoomed at: 42x
Weapon: KJW TK GBB SPR (SR25 front assembly)
Scope: Leupold Mark 4 M1
HD Camcorder: Sony HDR-CX160 (30x Optical Zoom, 42x extended zoom, 350x digital zoom)

daishi November 14th, 2012 12:25

Can anyone compile a list of real steel parts and upgrades (steel trigger groups, inner barrels ect) that fit the kjw WITHOUT any modifications? I don't own metal grinders or what not.

I'm looking to improve on my stock version (accuracy, recoil, kewl factor), but i'm not sure whats available that fits.

McCrea November 14th, 2012 12:38

It will take real steel grips and the Magpul BAD lever without modification.... As for inner barrels you will need to get an aeg barrel and modify it..... also should take real steel RIS

audi_bhoy November 14th, 2012 12:46

You can modify an AEG inner barrel with only a metal saw and a file. Did it to a 509mm 6.01 madbull TBB :)

beanie November 22nd, 2012 13:29

Magpul Moe series and trigger guard fit.

Ivanov December 3rd, 2012 17:31

I'm in the market for a new inner barrel and came across this
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/falcon-6-...gbb-363mm.html
Any one familiar with Falcon Inner barrels and have an opinion?


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