MT Thompson M1A1 Vs: CYMA Thompson M1A1???
 

EDIT: Sorry, I meant TM in the title.
Hi Everybody,

I am seriously interested in purchasing an Airsoft Thompson. As soon as this issue has been settled, I will get age verified and wait for one to appear in the for sale section.

Anyways, Which one is better? I hear the CYMA shoots faster, but I also hear the the TM is the best in terms of quality.

Which one is worth buying?

Also, I wanted to buy an M1911, is the TM version any good?

Thanks very much to all,
Regards,

Eagle

tm thompson awesome internals, externals are good but nothing to write home about
cyma thompson awesome externals, internals not terrible but leaves much to be

as for the 1911 there are plenty more brands that make a awesome one. google some reviews about some of these guns

Get the Cyma.

Metal externals, anything internal can be replaced if need be.

I've heard good things about the Cyma thompson, plus its cheaper last time I inquired

for 1911, get a TM 1911 if you plan on upgrading it... at a price...lol.... since the stock body and frame a plastic, upgrading it will cost about 700$ (gun included)....

You could always get a WE 1911, for around 200-350$, but its not the best...but its more beginner friendly....since its full metal and cheaper...

You could also get a Army MEU (1911) those are TM clones....

Alright, Thanks for all of the help!
CYMA it is.

My cyma thompson is a great gun. Pushing two years old and still leaving welts on my enemy. ;P
KJW 1911 is a great gun also.

Tank

I love my Cyma, and if you can get the wood kit it looks AWESOME. And its cheaper, almost cheap enough to pay for the wood kit(which I would recommend for either Thompson). Internally its super easy to work on if anything goes wrong.

Yeah, go with the KJ M1911A1.

The WE one is bad on gas and isn't TM compatible.

Screaming_Eagle, good call on getting the Cyma Thompson.

You can buy 2 new Cyma Thompsons for the cost of one new TM Thompson.

The Cyma shoots hiigher out of the box and is FMU.

I have an upgraded Cyma Thompson w/ wood kit.

Exclellent aeg.

Sorry for the thread raise, but I had 2 questions:
What do you think about the Thompson that Canadian Tire is selling?

And what is a good price to put down on a CYMA Thompson with a full compliment of mags?

Thanks.

The one at Crappy Tire is a Cybergun, which I think is the same as the Cyma. Minus the metal body of course. I'd put it in the same category as the Kraken. But I haven't handled it, just read the box..

Once you get AVed, there are CYMA Thompsons currently available through both retailers and the classifieds. As per Surebet's thread, you're looking at three hundred dollars or a bit less for a new one without extras. More for one on the classifieds with a whack of mags, but still quite reasonable.

99.9% sure the clear Thompson has plastic gears like the one found at the bottom of this list.http://palcosports.com/catalog_produ...list_by_power=

The Cyma has a metal gearbox with metal gears.

99.9% Cybergun is a rebranding company that owns certain trademarks for airsoft use I don't believe they really do make anything.

Here is what I did to get my Cyma M1A1 Thompson Authentic.
1. Wood Kit (you will need access to a dremel: http://www.ebairsoft.com/authentic-t...ood-p-933.html

2. Kerr Sling: http://www.ima-usa.com/product_info....oducts_id/1440


3 Some knowledge easily found by using Google: http://www.rookscastle.com/tutorials/disassembly.html and YouTube - How to Disassemble the AirSoft Thompson

4. Some mags ( I use the KA 110 rounders):http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/catalogse...mpson+magazine

Here's what I am doing for an "authentic" military style M1928 (work in progress):

1. Wood kit plus: http://www.ima-usa.com/product_info....oducts_id/2388

2. Dremel out the top of the receiver and move the cocking handle up there it's stricly a "decoration".

3. Fill in the side of the receiver where to cocking handle was with a thin piece of metal (I used old press plates from a letter press and painted it). Not 100% happy with the outcome of this as yet.

4. "glue and shape a very similar looking thimble (buy a few) to the cocking handle to look like this: http://www.ima-usa.com/images/XU1629-2.jpg

Thanks for clearing that up shiftsup. I thought the CT one had metal internals, but we all know what thought did...

For a 1911, if trademarks aren't important but performance is: I recommend the KWA M1911DS PTP. It is a reasonable replica of the 1911, but with dual stack so it holds 26 bbs per mag. Its performance is like an upgraded TM one out of the box.

So for actual gaming it is the best deal going. You get fps and accuracy out of the box without further upgrading. The mags last for years without leaking a bit.

If you want a pretty wall hanger then look to TM or WA. KJW are TM clones, so look carefully at price before getting a clone over a real TM.

thanks for the help all.

I will field test the plastic m1a1 and get back to you.

So I took out the Canadian Tire M1A1 out yesterday, and I like it very much. It has a very nice Rate of Fire, has nice sites, and has a good FPS. I like it very much. I think that it is worth 90 bucks, and that is is very well made. If I can answer any of your questions, please go ahead and post here or PM me.

Not to knock on you or whatever. If it works it works but you can't really judge a gun like that until you've tried out a few.

Also I'm not trying to be mean or anything but ROF and FPS mean shit all after you can get a few BB's out of the barrel per second and 300 FPS with .20's.

Newbies and stuff like higher numbers because if it's higher "it must mean it's good". Not always true. If you can get 400 FPS and 15 BPS but have absolute shit accuracy after 40 feet (deviates in all directions) then that's how it will be. If you have another gun shooting 350 with .20's and they use .28's to bring it even lower down to 295 FPS with .28's and it shoots a respectable 5 BPS and it's accurate out to 100 feet before it starts deviating wildly then IMO it's better than the first gun.

That being said, if it works it works. You could easily have a PTW that craps out on you all the time or a $150 gun that works all the time and hasn't failed even after 100,000 BB's. You're still just using air to push a BB out of a metal tube and trying to tag other people out it doesn't matter if it's a $2000+ PTW shooting that BB or a straw and a BB (well I think there might be rules against that but it's still a hit even if you hit someone with a $30 clearsoft springer (which I'm sad to say that I have been hit with one once because it was a night game and he took out his springer pistol, got me when I popped out around the corner of the back looking for enemy trying to flank and snuck in through the back of the crack shack to get the other guy defending)).

My TM thompson has been running strong for the last 7 years. Only upgrades are metal bushing, top power 170 spring and dean connectors. The rest is stock.

Ok well I did install a custom outer barrel and wood vertical foregrip.

I understand what you are saying, and I do understand I am a newbie, but I was just saying my first impression of the gun was a lot better than I expected. All I here about it is that it is junk. It probably will not last as long as a TM M1A1, but it will last long enough if taken care of. If I painted it over, I dont think anyone could see the difference between a full metal cybergun and a Clearsoft M1A1.

What color should I paint the "metal areas" of the M1A1? I really need help with that. If someone could assist me in finding the correct color to paint over the plastic, that would be great.

Can you record it and post it on you tube or link it here?
As for the color try a flat black spray paint with a dull coat to finish the job.
Good luck


Tank

Screamin Eagle- The best paint out there for clearsoft stuff is Krylon Camo paint. It's ultra flat.

First take it apart and clean with mild soapy water (being careful to use latex gloves so there's no human oil on the parts, and give it a rough sanding. Prime with a spray primer. Next go 3 or 4 very light coats (waiting 30 mins or so in between to let it dry to the touch) with Krylon Camo or another matte colour. Finally seal it up with a MATTE clear coat after you let the paint cure (24 hours should be fine for letting it cure). Not a regular clear coat but a special matte one that protects the paint and seals it up.