King Arms barrel nut/delta ring removal
 

So I just bought a received my new King Arms M4 a few days ago. My lovely Larue rail is awaiting install, but I can not for the life of me remove the barrel nut.

I don't have an armorers tool, I've just been wrapping a cloth around the spikes and using channel lock pliers. I've even tried heating it first, to absolutely no avail.

Any tips?

You should really use a delta ring / butt stock wrench... Using pliers will mostly damage your delta ring or yourlself... (been there, done that...)

I have used the pliers on my (leather man\multi-tool) to get mine off!its works ,but you might need a thin cloth so you don't scratch the paint!:)
Attachment 28836

The KA delta ring is on insanely tight. If you you buy the delta nut wrench make sure it is a good one.

On my particular king arms m4, the spacers for the ring were bent into the threads making it impossible to take off without stripping all the threads. If you don't need the delta ring, then you can just dremmel it off. That's what I did.

1. Be careful...receivers aren't all that strong and it's entirely possible to crack them
2. It's likely seized...and I'd rather cut a delta ring off than risk breaking a nice receiver
3. If soaking it with a penetrating lubricant doesn't help...then it's likely not much else will
4. You need a bit of leverage...assuming you aren't using smurf sized pliers. Also, squeezing it isn't really helping.
5. A good armorers wrench is really handy. Find a good local gun doc...he'll have one.

best of luck

Never put a screwdriver as a lever in the pin hole, I slightly broke my receiver because of this and was lucky that I was able to fix it.... Dumb idea. A useless ring doesnt worth it, Listen to M102404 advice cut it if it wont move!

I'm inclined to agree with Ghostnote. On my ka m4 the delta ring wouldn't budge even with an armorer's wrench. I say cut it off.

I'm going to piggyback on that thread real quick as I have somewhat related issue:

I own a King Arms M4 as well, that came with the Larue RAS (7")
I've been trying for the life of me to unscrew the flash hider and never achieve to make it even a little. I did try to soak it in hot water before hands, didn't help.
Even decided to use Vise-Grips+Towel, and all it did is what you'd think: scratch the flash hider :P

I'm starting to think it's not removable, in which case I'm not sure how I would be supposed to be able to change my upper/barrel (can't slide RAS far enough because it stucks on the gas-block which is blocked by the hider... get it?)

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Some models have their flashhiders glued on (i.e. epoxy/superglue)...or loctite'd on. Either way, usually hitting it with a propane torch will vaporize/soften the glue enough so that you can wrench it off.

Most flashhiders have flats where you're supposed to use a wrench....

And you've got to hold the outer barrel too (better than holding the receiver...for AS)...if you need additional grip, sometimes a bit of rubber sheet will provide enough grip for your vise/pliers while still protecting your barrel.

If the flashhider is truely mangled...then have at it I suppose.

Thanks for the info!

I might try to heat it up real good sometime then

/piggyback-ride :P

if you plan to do external work on your gun, best you invest in an armorers wrench IMO

hehe King Arms makes a Larue you know kekeke

Listen to these guys, get an armorers wrench or take it to someone who has one or your more then likely going to break or ruin your receiver or the delta ring.

MP, just to make sure, a lot of Flashhiders are CCW, hope you took that in consideration, beside the little hex screw that might be locking it in place !!

Yup I first tried unscrewing CCW (well, clockwise to unscrew right? unless I got it wrong all along hehe :P) but when I saw it wouldn't budge I did try CCW. Also, I couldn't locate any grub screws or anything, which would lead me to believe more and more in the "glued" theory

take a close look at the threads. If you see red thread locker on it, you will need lots of heat to remove it.

^^^^^ This. Can't stress it enough. The tool is cheap. Get one.

I've used mine once and it is well worth the price!

Bringing this up, dont want to start a new one.

I want to put a shorter barrel on my KA M4, but the nut wont move at all. I ordered a delta ring wrench, but from this thread, i think it won't move anyway..

I'll have to cut it :banghead:
I don't thing the delta ring will be hard to remove, but when it come to the barrel nut, i worried about cutting the threads on the receiver. Any tip to avoid damaging the receiver?

Use a cut off wheel and go carefully. If you cut most of the way through until you start to see the threads before you hit the receiver ones, you can get a flat screw driver in the slot you cut and twist. It should snap the barrel nut open. I have done that on a few with no damage to the receiver

I put my upper into a vice, then used my KA wrench took a bit to get it loose but afterwards it came off no problem, it looks like they glue these fuckers on

A quality AR15 armorer's wrench will open the KA barrel nut at around 45ft-lbs.

Thank you! I'm trying to remove my barrel before odering the new one from you =)

Huh, that's right in the range of real steel AR-15s.

Without a proper picatinny clamp and/or vise, I'm not sure how one would go about it without damaging the receiver. I don't blame people for cutting them off.

I dont want to damage my receiver. What's the best way to put the gun in the vice? Only with upper receiver or the whole gun? Do you have any tips how to do that properly ?

I would normally use an AR-15 upper receiver block, but I have a GBBR so I'm not quite sure how closely the inner of AEG uppers follow the RS spec. Brownells has upper receiver clamps which rely on the outside of the receiver instead of the inside. Clamp the receiver into it, put the gun in the vice, work slowly. You can wail on an RS receiver, but on a pot metal AEG receiver I'd err on the side of caution and use heat on the nut if required. If you really don't feel like the investment, you can make your own blocks... but ensure you're accurate and on point. Having a loose vise block is an entire level of frustration.

Don't ever do it with your receivers linked, ever. Even on a real AR the pivot pin points aren't meant to take that moment/torque (Note the reinforcement from A1 to A2 receivers) and on an AEG, you WILL snap the pivot points.

I already feel dicey doing it with an actual AR-15 upper receiver, though I suspect it's more due to the fact that aluminum is much lighter than pot metal despite its higher strength.

dremel it!
 

I just spent a couple of hours attempting to remove this by heating the nut, and cooling the body, and this thing will not budge. I took it to a buddy that has a machine shop, and when we applied enough pressure, the body started to warp, so we stopped...

Then, it took me less than 10 minutes to dremel the nut off the body, and then 20 minutes to put the new RIS front end on it, and re-assemble the whole gun!

Lesson learned KA! Lesson learned!

Just dremel it!

S