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King Arms M4A1 help!!
So I bought a KA M4 a few months back. I've taken it apart a handful of times but when putting it back together I seem to be doing something wrong.
When I pull the trigger I hear the motor trying to go but it click and stops. I read up and saw to try it in full auto to un jam it but that doesn't work. Just clicks. The battery in using is a 9.6 g&p and also another 9.6firefox. Batteries are new. I thought it might be the anti reversal lever but I've taken it apart a bunch and tried to make sure it was sitting properly. It seems like its locking up (battery gets warm) but I just don't know what to do. It seems like such a simple fix but only being into airsoft several months I'm by no means a pro. Anyone out there have any ideas? |
Dead batteries?
Adjust the motor height? It could have shifted and is now binding and facing too much resistance to spin the motor. |
Well I put a we Magpul MiAD grip on it and it could be the motor height I suppose. Should I bring the motor down you're thinking?
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Did you take apart the mechbox? If so, did you shim it incorrectly or put shims back in the wrong places?
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Yah I've fully taken it apart several times before and shims were always in correctly. The shimming came done stock.
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your motor coulda died ?
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Are you sure you didn't put the black on the positive side and red on the negative?
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Very positive I didn't. Lol.
It does click still tho. |
It could be your gear position. I've had similar problems. The solution, one o'clock position. All it is is setting it up so the sector gears tappet plate nub thing is in the "one" position. Pretty basic, but it could very well be what's giving you these issues, other then tight shimming, honestly factory shim jobs usually suck, so its recommended you fix that as well.
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If the grip is all you changed it's most likely your motor height. If motor height was to low it would make a grinding noise. not good so be careful not to grind your gear's. |
I've had this problems a few times.
One time is was shimming that was too tight, and the other time it was that the battery was just too weak to pull the new heavy spring. If you didn't change any internals and its clicking, that means the trigger unit is all fine and power is being delivered. Its either not getting enough power or the motor is too weak or burnt. |
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If all you changed was the pistol grip it could be a small number of problems. Motor height. The way the pinion gear is engaging the bevel gear (i.e. at an angle such that binding is caused) Pressure or bending of the motor is never good and can be caused by low quality, improper grip to motor interaction, or bevel gear shimming that needs to be modified with the new grip. Given that you hear a click (likely the motor trying to begin its cycle), and that your battery and probably motor get warm, these seem to be the likely problems. Go through your mechbox and systematically examine all the points at which "power transfer" parts interact starting with motor to grip -> bevel to pinion gear -> ARL to Bevel...[etc]... sector to piston -> spring to spring guide. Hope this helped! Good luck! |
I put a Magpul grip on a KA M4 once and had to leave the motor height screw almost all the way out to prevent it from binding. Try taking it almost out and see if that fixes it, then adjust till its in the right spot.
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Turns out it was the screw in the grip. The motor came down and now cycles. The only problem though is that it cycles but doesn't fire. I think that the problem is the sector gear not grabbing the plastic cylinder to bring the spring back. Could be wrong. Will open her up and check and see....any tips on how to make sure it grabs? I've seen this problem before with my rifle.
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i noticed on mine the adj screw hole is smaller in diameter then the one that came off and the motor doesn't seat
applies to much pressure to the motor |
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If it's the first choice, then something is definitely strange with your sector gear or piston teeth, possibly the intermediate gears as well. If you chose option two, then you have likely lowered the motor too far. If you did not hear any catastrophic noise, you likely did not strip the teeth of the gears, which is good. Definitely check the pressure exerted on your motor by the new grip but I would focus my attention on the bevel to pinion interaction/shimming and the demons associated with that. There are so many areas where power transfer components of a gearbox can face resistance and lock up but at this point (given that this problem started after installing the grip) the most probable source of these problems are motor to grip interaction, which could affect motor operation. Or motor to grip interaction which could have changed the way your pinion gear engages your bevel gear. Hope this helps! Cheers! |
So I managed to resolve everything! Thanks to everyone who contributed in this thread!
The problem initially was the motor needed to come down a bit as the new MIAD grip had it way too high. Then what was happening was that it wouldn't fire the nozzle however the spring was cycling. I fixed this quick as I noticed that the tappet plate wasnt connected to the nozzle. Then I noticed that it still wasn't firing BBs. I opened it up one last time, watched a video on youtube of what a gearbox looks like when it cycles (as I obviously couldn't watch myself) and I noticed that the sector gear wasn't engaging the tappet plate. I soon fixed this by just turning the sector gear to 1 o clock. Voila...I can now FINALLY fire my KA M4 for the first time. Here's a picture of what she looks like... http://imageshack.us/a/img5/9381/pho...20491548am.jpg Thanks again to you all! |
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