Boring out a Buffer Tube?
 

So I just purchased two of these:

https://triggerairsoft.com/shop/Buff...tock-Pipe.html

And they don't fit a LiPo battery, too shallow, can't close the stock all the way.

Since Trigger doesn't do returns, has anyone ever bored out a buffer tube before? I don't even know if I can get my hands on a bit that long/thick outside of a crazy machine shop.

Thanks for any input.

Just buy one of these, save yourself the headache.

http://airsoftdepot.ca/catalog/produ...db95ame72ujjg1

I tried doing an order from Airsoft Depot, and they cancelled the order and refunded my money due to most of the items I ordered being out of stock.
They didn't tell me which ones of course, and now I have to wait for the money to show back up in PayPal before I can order anything due to lack of funds.

I'm not sure how boring out the buffer tube would work since you would still need a shelf for the washer.

BUT...*whistle*
I'll just leave this here...
http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...ex&cPath=66_51

While I appreciate everyone trying to peddle me their wares, I didn't order from you because you didn't have a bunch of other products I was trying to get from Airsoft Depot.

ANYWAYS,
I didn't mean boring it out all the way. I'm just open to suggestions at this point.

I'm going to be honest and forthcoming and tell you that it will cost you much more in time and/or materials to make what you have work, than to save the tube for a front-wired gun project and buy the right buffer tube for the job. It also depends on how deep the flange is, and only you would know that because none of us can see the tube on the inside.

So let me get this straight, you ordered some in-stock items from Depot, but since there is no notion of a real-time stock system, you were refunded for out-of-stock items, and now your funds are tied up. Yet you insist on buying there again because...the bunch of other products appear to in-stock?

Oh, I totally have about 8 spare buffer tubes in my personal stash as well. LOL
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=168219



Lastly, Stealth Top Tip - use a credit card when using Paypal for online purchases. Your funds don't get tied up and you can probably earn rewards/points on your credit card.

You will have to inspect the washer mounting system, if it is just a small shelf in a long tube boring it out will mean you have no buffer tube retention system.

Boring it out could theoretically be done with a drill, but you'd risk drilling sideways and destroying the whole thing. You'd need a milling machine. Unless you happen to be a machinist (then you wouldn't be asking this question), getting someone else to do it will cost you miles more than buying a new buffer tube including shipping.

Get a smaller lipo?
We use 11.1v 25c 1200mah sticks in the PTWs, and you can fit 3 of them in a crane stock with a short mosfet.

If you really do want to bore out the buffer tube, I doubt you'll be able to take out enough material to make a difference. Your problem you describe is of length, not diameter, which you can't make them any longer.
But if you did want to bore it out, what you're looking for is a lathe and a long carbide boring bar.

It's pretty deep, just over 2 inches.

I never insisted on anything, or said anything about trying to buy from there a second time. You are putting words in my mouth.

Again with the wares peddling.
Joking aside (kinda) I saw that when I got home from Trigger, and found the tubes I purchased wern't going to work, right before I posted this thread.

Call me old fashioned, but I like seeing my money up front, if I don't have it, I can't spend it. Lots of debt problems in my family.
Airsoft isn't worth the hassle those folks have gone through.

I've seen people cut a section of a buffer tube out to be able to rear wire a battery with a PRS stock on the rear and change out batteries easier.... But in your case I don't think it'll work because your battery is straight up too big not just a "really tight fit and it would be easier if there was a section cut out for me".

True dat. I've never had to sell anything in a hurry because of my fiscal habits, I've noticed that sometimes people need to sell their guns to pay their school fees or whatever around Sept when school starts.

I should of been maybe a bit clearer, I meant boring it out to reduce the shelf length inside, as it's about 2 inches long.

My largest concern is not so much for myself as I have my stocks fully extended, but my girlfriend and 2 of my buddies who borrow my gear have shorter arms and like to have the stock as collapsed as possible, and the last thing I want is the liPo wires and battery getting crushed.

I love them, but sometimes they aren't very bright, and don't often heed my warnings..

But thank you, long carbide boring bar, information I was looking for.

Machining, if you don't know a guy, can be fairly costly. We're just trying to save you some money.
I would know personally, since I'm a machinist and I've done a LOT of custom mods over the years. It's worth it in time wasted alone to just buy a better suited product. And advice never hurt anyone, right? lol

Have you considered a crane stock?
The lipo sticks fit in the battery channels, leaving the buffer tube itself empty, AND you can run two batteries.

I actually have access to a machine shop at school. I just need to find time where it's open and I'm available.
I was just looking for any easier ways if anyone's has done so at home kind of thing.

I do like the look of crane stocks, but the girlfriend doesn't. She likes her CTR.

My mechanic friend said he might have something that could work.
He suggested those serrated hole cutters, assuming it's the right size.

annular cutters? boring bar would be a better idea

I learned that, the parts you NEED and never the parts you LIKE. I had a PRS stock on my ptw and thought it was the most badass thing ever. Except they suck at holding and changing batteries, so I converted to a crane that holds 3 lol

That wouldn't work, because then the screw would be too long.

cut off half the receiver tube if necessary, and the bolt can always be cut down

He's got a set like this: http://www.yachtstyle.co.uk/images/GTC%20Hole%20Saw.jpg

Figure the smallest one has hes might do the trick, since the tube is apparently cast zinc, and he uses these for steel bodywork.

You're a gundoc, I seriously hope you're kidding.

I assume that's not the exact set since those are hole saws for ceramics, not metals.
Also, nobody makes a hole saw long enough for what you want to do, but you'd need a 1" holesaw.
If you did managed to find a hole saw close to the right size and long enough, it's going to make a big mess of things, especially if you have a bore just under the size of the holesaw, you'll need to start the hole by boring out the end of the buffer tube to the same size as the holesaw to begin with.

A spade or twist drill would be the best lower cost alternative, but a boring bar is still your best bet.

Honestly, if you're going to use the wrong tools, at least use the right wrong tools. You could set up a drill and a steel wool setup to slow file the internals. It would cost less but take longer to do.

What you NEED to do is use a boring bar, a boring head, and have access to a mill with a decent dial indicator and a good vice.

The link you posted looks like for wood working? For center drilling a pilot hole, then cutting a larger hole using the pilot as a guide?

EDIT: I would just buy a new buffer... you're looking at 10-15$ in tooling, and several hours of labor, and I personally value my time at LEAST $20 an hour... Your choice though. Some people love the labor.

just sell the tubes you got and make back some of your money and buy the correct one. instead of wasting other's time with silly ideas that will ruin the tubes and potentially injure your self.
unless of course you plan to video your attempt and post it on here for our entertainment.

Most likely for tiles, the grit looks very coarse though.
The drill is for hard materials, when it drills it turns to powder, thus the lack of any flutes

The hole saws for wood have large teeth and also wobble back and forth like crazy (on purpose) as a means to prevent you from clogging the teeth up immediately upon starting the cut. The wobble also makes them incredibly useless as boring tools, and the design of holesaws makes them impossible to start holes by hand without a pilot.

Those aren't the ones I'd be using, just grabbed a pic off of Google.

And yes I do love the labor.