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Make your own UTG MP5 Silencer for dummies!
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Making a UTG MP5 silencer by not following the instructions!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...an/Topdown.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...andpainted.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...n/finished.jpg This is basically the same version of the Nemisis made but with some slight differences due to Canadian tire having a crappy selection of stuff....so lets start off with the parts you'll need....You won't need a dremel or a drill but you will need elbow grease http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...n/DSCF0002.jpg Plubming section at RONA or Home Hardware. (stay away from canadian tire since it took me 2 stores to find anything...) Dunno about lansing or Home depot Item 1) (bottom) You will need a 3/4” OD PVC pipe that is at least a foot long. However sometimes they sell them for 4-5 dollars for 10 feet so you might have to get them to cut a few foot long lengths for you. Item 2) (1st item from the left) 1/4” OD X 3”L BRASS NIPPLE/Pipe connector. (you may buy either one or two of these depending on how long you want your silencer to be) Item 3) (third item from the left in the picture) LONG SILENCER PEOPLE MAY OMIT THIS ITEM!!! (long silencer people can omit this one as you will use the tread from one of the 1/4” OD X3” L to thread into the gun) ONE OF THE FOLLOWING your choice...I'd go for best price as it doesn't make a big difference 1/4” OD X ½ “L 1/4” OD X 1”L Item 4) (Second item from the left) FEMALE 1/4” coupling item 5) (far right) Standard sized copper pipe connectors which is around 1/2” OD and come in copper. Three of them are in the picture (has to be able to fit inside the pipe but not too snugly as you will use electrical tape to make it snug item 6) Black electrical tape item7) Pipe cutter (far right) item8) flat black spray paint item9) sand paper 120/200/1000 grit item10) Epoxy/JB weld item11) a ruler or you can print one from this site http://www.vendian.org/mncharity/dir3/paper_rulers/ ARE YOU READY ARE YOU PSYCHED??? I CAN'T HEAR YOU!!!!! http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...osssection.jpg Ok so for starters here's a diagram/cross section of my silencer... Step 1) use pipe cutter to cut the pipe to desired length. Approximately 15.5 CM for those who plan to use the standard plan. Those who plan to make the long silencer must lay out the pipe and the attatched pieces side by side to determine where the silencer ends. Step 2) after cutting the pipe you will notice that its horriably disfigured...the easy way to fix this is to take your 120 grit sand paper and lay it on the table rough side up and put the end part's jagged area and start sanding it in a circular motion similar to using a mortar and pistol. Do this for both sides until the ends are completely smooth. It helps you later on when you epoxy...make sure both sides stand level. Step3) sand down the whole pipe...basically all you have to do is sand with the 120 grit...then progressive finer and finer until you finish off with the 1000 grit. Don't bother sanding the ends yet just the body... Step4) start by connecting the pipes until it is similar to my cross section. Remember those who plan to use the longer silencer that your female coupling will be in the middle so you will have to have to have a copper connector on both ends to make it stable. Step5) Start wrapping the non threaded ends of the 3” Brass nipple and until you can snugly fit the copper connector in. Do the same thing for the female coupling however there will be no copper connector over this one. The threaded end that connects to the gun must be left clean or untouched Step6) Wrap the copper connectors so that they fit snugly into the PVC pipe Step7) Coat the inside of the whole pipe with expoy and push the internals through until you have the threaded end pertruding at the end and the excess epoxy out the other side. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...chan/Front.jpg Your business end of the silencer will look like this to begin with...however it will look normal after you fill out the hole and then dremel it out after it cures it will look really nice. What I did was use paper to plug up the barrel then used a quarter to press it flat so that all the epoxy is even. Afterwards youll will need to sand it down again and dremel out the hole Step 8) the hardest part... Wait wait and wait until it all dries i suggest you make sure the barrel is clean and no epoxy is inside as it is a bitch to clean out afterwards...do this buy pushing a pencil with a cotton swab until you reach the other end (DO NOT PULL IT BACK let the pencil go through) Step9) Sand down the end using my method or use a dremel to make it look convex/bulged out Step10) Clean the surface of the pipe using mild soap on a cloth and dry up all the water afterwards Step11) paint the silencer but make sure it is elevated from the ground by using some useless crap... Step 12) Enjoy the fruit of your labour... Step 12) All your base are belong to YANHCHAN |
Looks good...can we see any completed pics?
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Need a bigger cross-sectional pic. This one's really hard to read.
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The paint is still drying maybe tomorrow I will have a complete pic. I have no idea why the cross sectional pic is soo small. I guess photobucket resized it. But if you right click and just copy the url of the cross section it will link to a larger pic.
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OK the whole thing is finished and painted...totally updated...i can't seem to find a way to make the cross section anylarger...so your best bet is to save the pic and just zoom in....
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Looks good...can't wait to see it on the gun.
What was your total cost? I tried to clear the pics a little... http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ncersmall1.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ncersmall2.jpg |
total cost was around 20-25 dollars due to no spray paint but I had tools so yeah...
Pipe. 5 bucks Internals total 7-9 bucks Paint and sand paper was like 5 |
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Don't mean to be a pain but I just want to see the fruits of your labour as I wouldn't mind trying it out. |
THE CROSS SECTION IS NOW AN ATTATCHMENT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FIRST POST YAY...thanks KID for helping me!
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Is it compatible to WELL R5/A5?
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LOL why did you get a WELL???? And I'm not sure but you could try,,,whats the point...its a WELL...further more....how did you get a WELL...no god fearing retailer stocks them...I think its a bad idea to even add any weight onto the barrel of the gun. I've had WELL guns before and they are complete pieces of garbage in terms of durability
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Well you could say that.. that's just my 1st AEG. But I Currently using T.M. MP5/A4 And ICS Arms A1 R.I.S. AEG I'm just wondering if it would work.
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Hit up Arnies...I know there were a few threads on the R5 there. Also check ASR - www.airsoftretreat.com
Not many of the new WELL line-ups are in Canada. |
Its a small gamble...but i say just buy the part and see if it threads onto the gun. Don't buy everything just the threaded part...
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With a bit of tweaking, i came up with my own modified version. I didnt use any tape. I bought different parts to make it fit correctly off the bat. The suppressor is 40x 230mm. Total cost at home hardware was $18.
Build materials: 2 x 1/4'' Brass Nipple 2 x Brass Coupling 2 x PVC Coupling 1 x PVC Riser 1 x 1 1/4" ABS (3 foot length) Everything fit like a glove and took about 1/2 hour of actual labour. Drying time was about ~10 hours. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42...1/DSCN3649.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42...1/DSCN3648.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42...1/DSCN3651.jpg Thanks Yanhchan :D |
SWEET JESUS...THAT THING IS AWSOME...is that an O ring on the threads? smart idea
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I knows hahahah...the threaded end is actually clean and closed unlike mine LOL...I halfassed mine
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I used auto body filler to fill in the two ends, i put excess on the non attaching side. I then shaped it accordingly to give it that rounded look. For the threaded side, i filled it, then sanded it flat. Quite simple!
I'm probably going to make a few more. |
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LoL, it just happened to be 230mm. I could have made is 200mm, or even like 100mm in length if i wanted to.
I wanted to get 3/4 inch (outside diameter) ABS, but the smallest they had was 1 1/4''. I think a standard Suppressor used on an MP5, would be about 35mm x 200mm or so. I like beefy though. |
yanhchen, will this silencer work on ur SD5? If it does let me know haha and I'll even pay somebody to make me one cause I'm a lazy ass XD
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Mine is too thin to be asthistically pleasing for the SD5...plus the SD5 uses a quick detatch system and I love it like that if you want one for the UTG just make it ones not hard.
god if you are going to spell my name spell it right.... |
Yahnchun?
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I'm smrt :P
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I should throw tuna testicles at you guys...but knowing you guys you'd love it.... LOL j/k...dozer I want pics of it on the GUN!!! NOW...I'm considering building a meatier one
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I will, i will. Easy there young jedi!
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BTW how are your groupings for shots? Mine is ok but I might need to get a better hop up...
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Aw well. Looks like the flashider doesnt want to come off, lol. I made a paperweight the shape of a suppressor! WOOT!
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Erik, i ended up twisting the damn flashider so hard that it snapped right off, i then wne in with a drill and began drilling out the orange stuff. It then came right out, but the threads were f*cked. THere were stille nough thread to attach my suppressor.
Here's a few pics. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42...1/DSCN3670.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42...1/DSCN3669.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42...1/DSCN3674.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a42...1/DSCN3672.jpg |
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If I were you Eric, i'de bust the little fucker off or let some one else do it for me.
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Its not too risky, once you snap it off at the front sight, its a matter of drilling the orange out. I say just leave it alone and paint it.
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Or make a mould that goes over the orange flash hider. like a half a pipe and the other half that snap on OVER the orange thing and the inner tubing line up with the orange tip.
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or try taking the front site off and checking to see how it should be turned to get it off from the back side of the flash hider?
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do i have to spend hundredes of dollars to go to each and everyone of your houses and get the flashhiders off for you????"
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Yahn, i put the flash hider in a vise and twisted the gun and nothing, used vice grips and a hammer to break the glue with zero success. Seems like the thing isnt meant to come off after all. But im happy....i got mine to work...lol
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Thats exactly what happened to mine. I am a pretty determined guy so of course i kept yanking, twisting, biting, trying to get the bastard out of it.
Life's a bitch. Dont let a plastic toy run you. Run the toy Erik! |
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I just through my spare EG1000 motor in it...all i can say is WOW. Nothing wrong with the UTG motor though. THe EG just makes the ROF quite nice. I dont hear it stressing out the mechbox. No bad grinding sounds etc. Hmm
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So yeah I finally got around to getting those pics of the groupings...Its terriable at 20ft on semi. Burst and Auto is great but stay away from semi. I was using an RDS though so that may be the problem I am quite a good shot for iron sights. RDS however is only good for burst and full auto.
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I did some testing with mine in the basement at 30 feet. I only tested semi and the groupings were about 3 inches. From 50 feet in my garage, they were about 6 inch groupings. Its safe to say that one would beable to hit a man sized target at 100 feet with little to no difficulty. Its a CQB weapon. Mine doesnt shoot straight but it shoots consistanly in the same spot. It fires to the left a bit, but it is consistant so its nothing to worry about. Cant beat this gun for $200. If i wanted accuracy i would have purchased a super tightbore. Will i? Of course not. This gun will be sitting in my closet used for strickly CQB only.
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Its quite good because you don't need it to be a sniper rifle. LOL I haven't had a chance to test it outdoors since I live in an apartment building and I don't want to get in trouble with the law. I asked my dad if he had any friends that had empty warehouses for to let me try out my gun with.
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Wow...an empty warehouse would be an awesoem arena?
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yes it would...but why did you add a question mark at the end????? LOL...like Anchorman..WHO PUT THE QUESTION MARK BEHIND MY NAME ON THE TELEPROMPTER????
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i know this thread is kind of old, but would this be usable on a jg g36k?
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just check what type of threads are on the end and go from there.
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can you do something with the silencer to reduce sound ?
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this is an ooold thread
but i simply have to ask about one thing How come your ends of the silencers are " closed up " sort of I got the part where you put in the body filler, but does it give me that finish in the end ? i mean after sanding ofc. since i live in norway diffrent sizes apply and such to the parts, some other parts wich dozer used i cant even find since i cant seem to find the proper norwegian name for it, would be nice if dozer " the one with the better silencer " lol could just post links to the diffrent parts he used on his silencer so that i can BT the pics over to my cell and show them to the store clerk. sorry yanhchan lol thx guys for an awesome guide......even tho i still havent come far!....at all |
I think if you want to make the end round out, you can use some kind of epoxy putty and shape it by shaving off excess till you get the desired shape. IMO with the low prices of chinese made parts, this DIY project is pretty much pointless unless your government prohibits import of toy silencers. Or unless you want a custom length/thickness.
It does look quite shoddy to me too so I'm not offended. The "closed up" is due to the fact that I had no idea epoxy putty existed at the time. Looking back I could have done a better job. I epoxy steel or JB weld so the viscosity didn't allow for me to shape it to a rounded end that Dozer was able to achieve. I have tried quite a few times to refine it. But I've pretty much lost patience after gaming season started :P I'd love to help you but I've sold off those MP5s and the silencers are gone too :{( Cheers and good luck to your endevour! |
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