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-   -   Polishing & Re-Painting GBB Metal Slide (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=34019)

Yoni Netenyahu January 27th, 2007 23:25

Polishing & Re-Painting GBB Metal Slide
 
So I have the Taiwan slide for my USPC, the same one as the ASC website sells. The finish is a bit too glossy and unrealistic for my tastes, and I'd like to sand down the paint and re-do it. My only concern is the trades. I'm a trade whore, and I'm worried if I sand down and re-paint, the trades will be worn away.

Has anyone had any experience with this/will this happen for sure? Thanks

tunabreath January 27th, 2007 23:59

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=17876

In short, no it won't hurt the engravings. There are some good tips in there too.
*Although you have to keep in mind, your paint will be nowhere near as durable as the factory job. It may well rub off and chip just from holstering it, etc.

Dirty Deeds January 28th, 2007 00:13

Are the trades engraved or etched? Big difference. Sanding an etched trade will most likely remove it.

Tuna, how is your slide doing? Any pics?

talon January 28th, 2007 00:52

i've got the taiwanese slide myself, and the markings appear to be etched, or even simply painted on. you'll probably have to get it engraved or re-trademarked, i can barely even tell if it's actually indented in the metal on mine.

tunabreath January 28th, 2007 00:58

Hmm, I was under the impression that taiwan (TW?) slides had good deep engravings (at least, as I gathered from G18C reviews... the USP may be very different).

And on a big thread nabbing note (sorry :D )
Crappy impromptu webcam photo ahoy!
http://i5.pbase.com/o6/88/746088/1/7...cture_0011.jpg

*and it doesn't work... haha, I'm working on it* ...screw it, link edited in...

Yeah, haven't gotten the engravings done yet...

talon January 28th, 2007 01:06

well, it's the plain-jane "KSC" metal slide, which I have presumed to be the "Taiwan" slides? Slap me if I'm wrong, but that's the impression I was under...

tunabreath January 28th, 2007 01:13

Yeah, that's what I thought too... Odd...
Most of the G18C reviews I've read complained about the shallow trades on plastic and commended the deep ones on (KSC/TW/whatever) metal. No idea about the USP though.

talon January 28th, 2007 01:19

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/000_1338.jpg

this is mine, and as you can see, they're hardly engraved (if at all). you might not completely remove them if you sand it down very very very lightly, but beyond that...

Dirty Deeds January 28th, 2007 01:34

Those are etched and painted. I wouldn't attempt to sand that.

Kimbo January 28th, 2007 02:27

I think it all depends on how deep your trades are and how deep you go when you are sanding it down. You don't have to remove much material to get down to the base metal. You cant see the trades well from this pic and I don't have the gun anymore, but when I polished this slide and barrel it was pretty hacked before I got it. You can still see the trades on the barrel even though it was sanded poorly before I got it and I had to sand it some more. Forget stripping with chemicals, just hit it with some wet sandpaper, probably start with a 200 and go up from there until there are no more scratches. If you want a polished look like this gun, hit it with a polishing wheel. Takes no time at all.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/kimhusted/Chromed-glock.gif

Dirty Deeds January 28th, 2007 08:57

VERY nice job man.

Yoni Netenyahu January 28th, 2007 15:37

Damn thats gorgeous! I actually wanted a duller black/metal finish to make it look more "real" but b.c. the trades look etched I'll probably forgo it, thanks guys.

CDN_Stalker January 28th, 2007 15:41

You can try using gunblue to darken it, but it really depends on the type of metal you are using it on. I've gotten brass to go completely black, some aluminum goes dark black as well, other types of aluminum goes an ugly splotchy brown colour, pot metal can and sometimes does go pitch black as well (cleaned up a scratched TM mag catch last weekend, made it look good as new.) Since it goes into the metal as opposed to just sitting on top, the finish could look better than painting it. It also could not, all you gotta do is try a small area and see what happens.

takatorikku January 28th, 2007 16:59

i use a KSC metal slide kit for my USP.45 when i skirm with it. yeah the trades are etched on, and i just basically engraved them myself using a small flathead screwdriver. going over each word a few times gets you a nice deep engraving and it looks a hella lot nicer than before. I find that the painted/etched on crap tends to go yellow/brown after wear.

Lakonian January 28th, 2007 17:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by takatorikku (Post 414909)
I find that the painted/etched on crap tends to go yellow/brown after wear.

... My SR's trades are looking like alien piss. o_O;

CDN_Stalker January 28th, 2007 19:41

Rub over all the lines 90deg with a white Crayola crayon, then use your funger to rub off the excess on the upper surface, it also packs and smooths the surface of your trades making them look like paint that won't yellow.

CDN_Stalker January 28th, 2007 19:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by pivot (Post 414699)
I think it all depends on how deep your trades are and how deep you go when you are sanding it down. You don't have to remove much material to get down to the base metal. You cant see the trades well from this pic and I don't have the gun anymore, but when I polished this slide and barrel it was pretty hacked before I got it. You can still see the trades on the barrel even though it was sanded poorly before I got it and I had to sand it some more. Forget stripping with chemicals, just hit it with some wet sandpaper, probably start with a 200 and go up from there until there are no more scratches. If you want a polished look like this gun, hit it with a polishing wheel. Takes no time at all.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/kimhusted/Chromed-glock.gif


I'll add this, not all metal slides are milled out of a solid piece of a luminum like this, some are just pot metal (namely G&G crappy slides) that won't polish like this.

Even though I think polished or even just silver Glock slides look like ass I gotta admit that one is nice!

Lakonian January 28th, 2007 21:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker (Post 414934)
Rub over all the lines 90deg with a white Crayola crayon, then use your funger to rub off the excess on the upper surface, it also packs and smooths the surface of your trades making them look like paint that won't yellow.

wont the crayon come off eventually? I mean.. it's not like crayon is an adhesive .. Is there any prep involved, or does it just go straight on?

Kimbo January 29th, 2007 00:54

I agree that chrome or silveresque guns only look good if they match your teeth, and I normally wouldn't have done it, but I bought the gun second hand and someone already tried to half ass sand off the slide. I thought I'd giver er a whirl and see how easy it was. I sold it shortly after as it's a hard piece to match with your kit. Sorry to semi jack your thread.

tunabreath January 29th, 2007 01:04

More off topic as it winds on -
On yellowed trades, is there any way to whiten non-engraved and/or etched trades?
(namely, the ones on my TM Mk23 silencer, which are also starting to look like 'alien piss')

Kimbo January 29th, 2007 13:23

Non engraved trades are just paint, if you want to clean them up use mild soap and water. If they are too far gone, you'll probably want to get a detailing brush, a whole bunch of spare time, and touch them back up with some white paint.

Ingraved trades that are dirty as well can be 'cleaned out' with a pin or similar then 're-rubbed' with crayon as metioned.

CDN_Stalker January 29th, 2007 13:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by kos (Post 414968)
wont the crayon come off eventually? I mean.. it's not like crayon is an adhesive .. Is there any prep involved, or does it just go straight on?

In places yes, eventually it'll wear off, but just have to reapply it every year or as needed. The reason you rub it with pressure and vigourously is to pack/compress the wax into the trades, as well as rub off the stuff on the surface. I still have full trades on a well worn KSC M11 that are intact (incidentally I used white all over but used red crayon on the FIRE part of the selector.)


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