ProWin 8mm Split Mechbox
 

I go on redwolf airsoft and i found this

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=20438
and this kit was discountined

but they have this kit
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=20438

what is the difference between this and a standard gear box...

maybe more easy to change the spring to change fps depending where you play... (like systema gun)

who can said me if i'm have understand the function of the kit...
and if I need more parts to complete this gearbox (because isn't clear on the page)

you can see more here http://www.tantec.ca/node/11

THANKS

Well you'd need gears for one thing...

but this gearbox is like a systema gun juste need to change spring to change fps of the gun

Uh, that's true for any mechbox.

Thats sorta like an ICS armlite mechbox I saw once, where you could open it and remove just the top half of the mechbox to do maintenance on. Still not as easy as a systema set up, because systema uses springers already dont in cylinders. But this mechbox set up is very convienent if you change springs alot and dont want to go through alot of hassle opening up your MB all the time.

same idea as a systema or ics, but they are a fucking jole to put together. ive never done one myself, but watched 2 club mates attempt. youll need absolutly everything from a donor mechbox, selector plate, trigger mech, gears, bush, springs, EVERYTHING. all you get is the mechbox shell, adn it comes in... oh about 13+ pieces if i recall. id reccommend just getting a systema mechbox, or tradeing for an ics. i wouldnt attemp this. oh also the ones they got were the blue anodized ones if that helps, but they also wouldnt fit in any other metal body without modification except hurricane. one mate tried modding to fit, but he ended up fucking up the body and had to get a hurricane in the end anyways lol.

not sure witch are shown on redwolf, but they look like the 7MM type.
i got the PGC PRO-WIN 8mm (metalic grey color) and i love it to death.
there are a few things that you need to note down about it.
#1, you will need to grind down the inside of your M4/M16 body to make this mechbox fit.
#2 dont use the hop sleeve that comes with it. it seems that they made a mistake when they made the molds for it. the openning for the bb/nozzle is far too narrow and tight, the tappet plate spring will not be strong enough to puch a BB past the openning and into the hop chamber, causing back pressure in your cylender and slowing down your piston. if you fire in full auto with this hop sleeve, expect to strip the teeth off your piston (i went through 3 befor i figured out the problem). make sure you test any hop sleeve you plan to use by placing a BB on the openning, the sleeve should just be narrow enough to not let the BB fall through, but should be loose enough that a slight soft push will make the BB fall though.

#3 you are going to need to be carefull on how you shim up the gears, since the tolerances are so tight.
if you need help i can talk you through it onver PM.

other than that, this is one bad ass mechbox.
after i changed the hop sleeve i had no more issues at all with this mech box, this thing is a monster and now my VFC HK416 is a BB hose.

but I see that fit on hurricaine metal body it's true...

and I need to use a standard mechbox to get parts :( it's dut a expensive modification

there are just a few things you would need to get.
a switch assembly with trigger and sector gear leaver (the thing that disengages the switch in semi-fire mode), a cylender, motor and gears.
if you already have an old mechbox, just swap the parts.
it depends on what M4 you plan on in stalling this mechbox.
but most people replace most of their mechbox internals anyways.
i i know what gun your going to put this in, i gave get a better idea of what you would need to get.

as an owner of a pro win, i LOVE IT. you better know what your doing when it comes to putting this thing together, i didnt do it. (Raysaark did). It shoots beutifly, the hopup is seeld so there is no airloss and with a 6.04 its a dream.

you allso need a G&P body, i modified a guarder C8 body bit it didnt work the same and you couldnt swap out the spring with out taking the whole mechbox out. It is in a G&P body now and with about 2hours of fileing it fits and works great.

I still have one for sale:

http://www.pbase.com/image/88417897/original.jpg

Pro-Win 7mm Detachable Ver2 MechBox ( Limited Version )
Now out of production, this Lamborghini of gearboxes features:
- CNC Made 7mm Gearbox with Bearing set for M4/M16 Series
- Extremely Durable
- Air sealing chamber prevents power loss in high velocity setups
- Quick-Detachable (split-mechbox) design, makes spring changing and maintenance easy! Swap springs to go from an outdoor gun to an indoor / CQB gun in less than 5 minutes!
- Spring Release Switch for longer spring life
- Compatible with most after-market parts

Package Includes:
* All body parts & integrated hop up chamber components
* Custom modified Prometheus Hard Piston to fit gearbox
* PGC Hop-Packing (Hard, recommend for M130+ springs)
* PGC Aluminum Nozzle (Brand New)
* PGC Cylinder Head (Brand New)
* Pro-Win Piston (Broken, keep as dimension sample in case another aftermarket piston needs to be modified to fit)
* Pro-Win Special Tappet Plate
* PGC Spring Guide with Nylon Bushing (Brand New)
* 7mm Bearings (Brand New)
* M130 Spring
* Motor Pad
* Gearbox Spring Set
* Screws
* CNC Gearbox & Chamber Set
* Installation Manual & Reference CD

NOTE:
Metal body is required
Modifications required for some parts and metal body, installation should be performed by experts.

Parts required to complete the installation:
- Gear set
- Anti-Reversal Latch
- Motor
- Piston Head
- Cylinder
- Hop Up rubber (I don't recommend using the one it comes with)
- Pin to stabilize cylinder head (or a shim will need to be created to keep the cylinder head from sitting too far forward)
The kit comes with everything else you need, although there are always better aftermarket parts available for items like the spring guide.
Used, excellent condition. With packaging
Price: $280
Qty: 1

Hello,

i am from germany and this is my first posting so sry for my bad english :-)
also sorry for this bunch of questions /blush

i recognized this very interesting threat and have some questions about this prowin gb.
My gun is a custom thing: Classic Army MK12 Mod0 kit, G&P Akku Stock, G%P Body, PDI X-Fire 6,01 mm, KA M3 + extender and so on, no other internales until now.
so i am still building this beautiful gun and i want now procced to the inner tuning. the target is more than 600 fps (Guarder SP170), so all internals should be able to handle this power this for a while.
I heard that the 7mm version is crap, all questions belong to the 8mm version.

Here we go:

- Would those missing parts like sector gear leaver and the switch assembly fit, if i take them f.e. from a Systema complete mechabox (M170)?
- which gearset would you prefer? any experience with the prometheus super tourge up gears (not helical, to hard to shim;p)
- can i use both types of pistons? half or full theet?
- what about bore up cylinder-sets? would they fit? i guess the pgw nozzle could be a problem then ...
- @ Voodoo: i got an G&P M16 Metal body as well, i would love to take a look at some photos of the metal work (fileing) that is to do with that G&P body and the prowin GB. i hope you can help me out!
- is it possible to ... hm dont know the word ... lay the wire "backwards"?
like i mentioned, i got a G&P Akku Stock, so its an important question :) in the review from tantec.ca they took the wires to the gb-front. do you know what i try to explain?
- could anyone explain what exactly the hopup sleeve is, with an image for example? i can imagine but im not sure.


Thats all for now. you can see that i plan to exchange most of the prowin internals if possible. i like that box because of its look&feel and of course for the huge advantage to change the upper internals quite easily&fast :D

If anyone could help i would be so happy and perhabs i can return the favour!

Greetings from germany :)

Kashimaa

- What is a sector gear lever?
- Yes, a Systema switch assembly will fit
- For your setup, I'd highly recommend either the Prometheus Max Torque gear set or the Systema Infinity torque up gear set
- You will require a half-tooth piston to work with either of those gear sets.
- You have no choice as to helical or flat with those gear sets... they ONLY come in helical teeth
- I'd also recommend a MOSFET for your setup so that you don't burn out your contact plates
- I'd also recommend a high torque motor, such as a Systema Magnum motor
- Bore up cylinder kits will fit - the kit comes with the appropriate nozzle, so no worries about the PGC one
- What do you mean by "lay the wire backwards"? Do you mean to the rear stock? The gearbox is built to allow wiring to either the front or the back of the gun, but it's easier to get it to rear power

I had it installed in my SPR, rear-powered by a Crane stock:
http://www.pbase.com/illusive_airsof...9/original.jpg

Hop up sleeve:
http://www.wgcshop.com/WGC_Shop/images/sys_zs_07_01.jpg
(the black rubber part)

Perhaps he means anti-reversal latch?

I hope it's not crap; I just ordered one.

For your sakes I hope its not crap too Cushak, that would totally not be good.

Im shooting the M100 spring for indoor and it gets the same range as an M120 in a systema mechbox. I will post a pic of the inside of the mechbox when i have it apart to clean it this week. It isnt very hard, just get a dremil. Most of the grinding is on the right side of the lower mechbox to accomedate the spring release.

To change the spring you need to take your stock off and the front&rear body pin, it take about 15min to do the first time.

you SPR looks great! and with its internals it is realy realy highend, nice job!

1 nice, so most of the common gb v2 internals should fit.
2 you are right and i meant those gears, just too lazy to search for the correct productname ^^
3 so half theet will fit, thx!
4 i could not believe the heli-only but damn, you are right ...
5 mosfet rocks, i know but thx
6 same with systema magnum motor
7 sry, missunderstanding, but you finaly answered my question and gave me an new one, too hehe: wich nozzle do you prefer for this setup and the prowin box?:
deepfire cylinder type 0
deepfire pistonhead (alu)
deepfire cylinderhead
(all bore up)
8 thats exactly what i meant :D so, good news for my plan, thx.


i think i will give that gb a try, or 2 .. or10 hrhr.

@ Skruface, you are right, thx
@ cushak, maybe ist was just a crappy info ;p i realy dont know, i read that anywhere. you got my best wishes ;)
@ voodoo also thx for your support! i think i am not the only one who want those pics :D

your all great, you answered more than i questioned :)

that depends on if your M4's stock bolt goes into the spring guide, or into the backplate of the lower reciver.

mine bolts to the reciver so i just pop the two reciver pins, then the pin (replaced the screw with a pin for quicker removal) that holds the back of the gearbox.

It's not "crap", but there are some minor workarounds that you'll have to deal with that were fixed when the 8mm version was released. Hence, the cheap price that I let the 7mm go for.

Issues that I've noted in the past through various threads:

1. Sub-par build quality plus non-standard dimensions of the piston (which is why I included a modified version of the Prometheus piston)

2. The cylinder head requires either:
a) a front-shim to push it back
b) a locking rolling pin to hold it in place (the instruction include details on this, and a hole is already drilled through the gearbox to accomodate this. You just need to locate a pin that was never included in the kit.)
Failure to lock the cylinder head back in place can and will result in either a damaged tappet plate, or (more likely), a damaged piston and possibly damaged sector gear.

If the cylinder head is located properly, then you should actually be able to run the PGC piston no problem for many many rounds. Mine broke because I failed to notice the proper location of the cylinder head on initial installation. I initially blamed the PGC piston, but when I noticed strange grinding noises and abnormal grinding marks on the first tooth of the Prometheus piston, I inspected further and realized that the cylinder head was sitting too far forward, causing the piston to also sit too far forward.
The result is that the sector gear was engaging the piston teeth incorrectly, causing the issues. The pressure on the PGC piston caused it to snap.

As far as I know, this cylinder head issue is still not fully resolved in the 8mm version, but the piston dimension issue has been.

Again, as has been mentioned many many times, this gearbox is NOT for the faint of heart and only recommended by people familiar with upgrades, modifications, diagnosing and troubleshooting.

Beyond that, I don't see what's so "crap" about the 7mm version. I never saw anything that ever made me regret getting the gearbox. Consider that you're dealing with the first generation of the next evolution of the standard AEG gearbox. Perhaps you could enlighten us, kashimaa?





If installed according to the instructions that come with the PGC gearbox, you shouldn't need to take off your rear stock at all - just like real steel or a Systema PTW, the bolt to attach the stock would go from the inside-out rather than outside-in and secured by a nut. It's a bit of a pain if you ever have to take your stock off, but if you don't, it'll save TONS of headaches for field-stripping the gun. If you watch the videos that come on the installation disc, you'll see them completely strip the upper off, swap the spring and reinstall everything together again without ever having to take off the stock. A spring swap can be performed in about 30 seconds. Ultimately, you don't *HAVE* to do it this way, but if you want full access to the quick-swap feature, this is definitely the way to go.





There's nothing wrong with helical gears - if you're working with gears of a torque level of this caliber, you'd BETTER know how to shim, because if you don't, that's actually the least of your worries. You might as well forget about getting a Pro-Win gearbox if you're worried about such a minor issue as shimming.
When installed correctly, helical gears perform better than flat gears.

I'm not too familiar with Deep Fire products, but I tend to recommend the same brand of air nozzle as the cylinder head you buy. So if you get a Systema cylinder head, get a systema air seal nozzle, if you get a guarder cylinder head, get a guarder air nozzle, and if you get a Deep Fire cylinder head, get a Deep Fire air seal nozzle. Simple as that. There isn't much difference between the brands, but there are minor fitments differences between the brands due to outer diameters of the cylinder nozzle base and the inner diameter of the air seal nozzle itself.

If you look around on the net, there is a site or two that has posted the pictures that were included with the gearbox. Unfortunately, I just shipped out the gearbox that I had in stock, so I no longer have the images on that disc anymore. There was a website I found that was based in France that had a very detailed and technical thread on the gearbox and had all of the images posted up from the installation disc.

Awesome, thanks for the info.

i search for prowin infos months ago. all i could find was this french side which i dont understand, and a couple of whining user in germany and swizz forums ;p
most of them said its too hard to install and they got no solutiuon for the jamming problem. thats all.
at this point i stopped the research until yesterday - i found a german retailer with that 8mm box in stock and this forum :)

I noticed that as well.

I'm the kind of person that finds a way to make something work when it doesn't work "right away."

There's always a fix, it just needs a bit of inspection and ingenuity. We're given a brain for a reason! :D

Regarding that jamming issue - that's what I ran in to as well, and as I mentioned, it is related to the cylinder head sitting too far forward. Once it's located properly and fixed in place, it should pose no problems.

hehe but what you said is true, so i will start with the GB building from scratch (?) with a normal one (Deepfire 7mm reinforced). when i get this thing working i will try the prowin box.

give me 2-3 month and i will be back with perhabs a lot of questions :) thx for your great support so far!

any ideas of what hop rubber is good to use for a high rof gun on the 8mm gearbox???

That depends on what velocity you're shooting.

I'd recommend models by Systema, Firefly or Prometheus.

with a gauder M16A2 metal body,how much filing is required and where.
I'm looking into getting the prowin8mm.

like i said in the PM, any quality hopup sleeve will work, just dont use the one that comes in the kit (openning is too narrow and will cause back pressure in the cylinder).

Voodoo spent hours grinding on his guarder and couldn't get the prowin to fit, he later just got a G&P body

This sounds like I should build this new gun from scratch,
Sounds exspensive but fun.Do G&P have C7 trade marks?.

i good trick to see where grinding is needed, is to take the compleatly striped down lower and put some playdoh inside.
press the gearbox into the lower and then once removed, you should see where the contact points are.

I am building my PRO-win gun from scratch and it has been very reasonably priced, I did buy a used CASV off of ASC but the complete build with over sized and ambi furniture, is just under $900.

I have never seen a G&P with C7 markings (doesn't mean they don't exsist)Voodoo had the C7 body and couldn't get it to work. If you really want a C7 get a G&P with out trades and have it custom engraved, but now you are looking at a bit more $$$

Use a coloured crayon, something like white or a bright colour that shows up easy. It will rub off or transfer to the gearbox during fitting, and you will still be able to see the contact points.

It's going to be nowhere near as messy as play-doh.

Just under $900? Is that including mags & batteries? Mine's priced at $1200 with 10 mags and a batt, but not the optics I'm wanting. What's your parts list like?

do you still have it up for sale

if i were you, id go with the 8mm version, the 7mm one has all sorts of problems, one being that the piston sits too far forward, and will strip the back tooth.

and then theres feeding issues, so i would go with the 8mm one, i did, and couldn't be happier.

Sorry, no longer for sale.

As for the problems with it, the cylinder head has to be fixed in place. Pro Win gives instructions on how to fix it in place, but doesn't give any indication of what distance, nor do they supply the pin for it. The cylinder head will also need to have a groove machined in to it to accept the fixing pin.

As for feeding issues... I never had any. As long as you don't use the included hop up rubber, there shouldn't be any problems.

I want a gearbox that just like... pops open on the side. And I can just throw in a new piston or gear set on the field. Or, in fact, I want a gun that I can just throw a new gearbox into. Just like a door opens, and I put a new gearbox in. Thats what I want.

yes just under $900, but that doesn't include mags. I already had a battery and optics.
I have:
1 KA CASV 10.5"
1 G&P Zombie Killa M4 Body
1 Crane Stock
1 Mad Bull Tactical Ambi-dextrus Charging Handle
1 KA Sniper Trigger Guard
1 Systema Trigger Assembly
1 Deep Fire Piston
1 Set of Systema gears
1 Systema Magnum Motor
1 KA SPR Grip
1 KA Set of SPR Flip up Sights
1 KA Ambi-dextrus Mag Release
1 Guarder Hop-up
1 Guarder Anti-reversal latch
1 Set KA Locking body Pins
1 Sling attachment thingys that goes between body and buffer tube.
1 Mad Bull M120 Spring
1 8mm Pro-Win
1 Madbull 383mm 6.03 inner Barrel

I did buy a second hand stock and front end, but I have building this one for a 6 months so I would only pick up parts when I noticed a deal.

I am currently building another Pro-Win M4 and it look as tho it will be around $1100. But I have purchased a new KA Gemtech Talon kit and that pushed the price up a lot.

My gun kicks ass with the PRO-WIN (8mm) it shoots 415 FPS .20s with a M120 at 18 rpm with a 9.6 3300 mah

thats a little impractical, why would you need to do that??? with a pro-win you can change the piston, or spring in about 5 minutes..... or a PTW which you can drop a new cylinder in, in 30 seconds.

you can it's called an M4 kind of. Undo the body pins, undo you grip and motor pull old mech box, drop new one in.

I was looking around for M16A2 upper&lower receivers blank,I did realize
this was going to be a pricey build.Are there any good quality M16 stocks
rear.I did a tactical prone position and tweaked the seam,no biggy,little
bit of glue,fixed.When you say the bodys need sanding down inside,how
much are you removing?.:cool:

i had to shim my upper part back, it was to far forward

but thats with the 8mm, i was guessing it was the same way for the 7mm one

psh but ive got to take out the pin above the trigger, take off the stock. I want my gearboxes to be like mags. Just throw them in and out. That would be awesome. Like... Stripped piston? Gears not cycling? No compression? Switch blown? Whatever, throw a new one in and keep destroying. Thatd be great. I wouldnt have to worry about breaking internals. I could have the most insane set up ever, and just carry around a bunch of gearboxes in pouches. Id pay good money to anyone who can make it happen.

with a couple systema drop-in gearboxes, that is possible

Or get a PTW :D

millimeter or more

didn't the pin line up in the hop-up unit and cylinder head

Yes, that's exactly what was required of the 7mm. If you didn't have a pin to fix the cylinder head back a bit, you would have to shim the front to keep it back. If you left it forward, the piston would rest too far forward, causing the sector gear to crash on to the face of the first tooth. It would snap shortly afterwards if the issue wasn't corrected.

I assumed it was fixed for 8mm, but I guess not.

they fixed it by including a thicker cylinder head,

below is mine from a silent piston set, compared to the one that comes with the prowin. http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/5...0118ye8.th.jpg