PTW Issues
 

Okay I just got my PTW 08 CQBR back from a warranty repair, put in the M90 cylinder, fired it, Smiling and proceed to reload with a second mag after 10 single shots switch to auto and the high pitch grinding noise started again, took out the cylinder and Half of the teeth on the cylinder and the gears are gone!!!

This is the Third time this has happen, Anyone else have the same problem??? or am I the only one with this??
I'm ready to toss this paperweight out!!

I'll take it! It sounds like the upper cylinder and lower gear box are not mating properly.

Is it a Max Systema Challenge Kit?
Who is doing the repairs?
I'm guessing it's an alignment issue of some sort as well...

CAN YOU SAY "LEMON"...

I feel your pain! I can see why you'd want to part with it!
Good luck!

Hmmm. PTW not so great after all :P

I have three...NO PROBLEMS HERE!
If it's man-made it "will" eventually fail....some sooner than others!

No it's not a challenge kit it QC built from the factory, repairs done by Zshot or whomever they use down in the states, Initially i thought it was an alignment but from what i have observed it's not the case, this so far is four for four I have a Gen 1 with broken body, a Gen 2 with electronic and cracked upper and now the newest M4A1 and the CQBR is out too

Lucky you!

Thread being fowarded to Systema Forum. Rare to have a QC PTW fuck up.

Good luck.

Have a few friends in HK who would not touch the PTW after similar problems

That is some serious "BAD LUCK" my man!
I guess I got all the good ones!
There's no way it should have been returned in that condition...

Keep this thread updated on any further developments!

it was shooting fine on single (went through 1 full magazine)but once I switch it to auto after the second burst then it start to grind

Have you tested it with any of the other cylinders?
I have heard of more problems associated with the M90 cylinders...
I have "NEVER" used an M90 in any of my PTW's...maybe that's my secret!
With saying that, I do have an M90 cylinder on order....maybe I'll wait to use it!

My other 08 M4A1 was done in with a M110 and a cracked upper to boot(waiting for replacement parts)

Which battery are you using, 12V or 9.6v Systema or aftermarket? Did the M90 have a steel rack gear, or alloy? Alloy is silver coloured, steel is, well, like steel.

I know that some M90s even up to last summer were coming with alloy rack gears, as used to be the spec with Gen 1-3 for M90 to M130. Now, they should all be steel.

Did this same gun have the same failure with any other cylinders?

all are now with the steel gears, 9.6 Systema battery from Redwolf and when I test them when they just arrive with M150 they are fine, I played with them for a few games using the M110 then the M4A1 went down and soon after probably three games with the M90 CQBR went down with the same problem

Just so I understand, in semi, the gears held up fine with the 9.6v and the M90. When you went to go full-auto, the gun ran for 1 burst, then blew up on the second burst?

Can you post up a pic of the cylinder and the sector gear. I'm guessing it was the sector gear that failed? Or was it more gears than that? And this was a MAX gun, right? Did the sun gear show signs of wear on the outside edge (ie. the black finish is has been worn away).

The M90 is really a light load. It's the last cylinder you'd expect to see that kind of damage with. M150, maybe, but not M90.

yes this is a MAX QC assembly from the factory, well all the gears was new I open the damn thing as soon as it arrive via UPS, and considering that it is only a M90 cylinder this should not have been a problem, the first full auto burst was shooting smooth then when i pulled the second time it grinds, I pulled out the cylinder an all the teeth on the gears are in pieces, the cylinder itself show wear but they looked even.

I'm not sure why this problem exist with only the new PTW, my first Gen last me a while before the body cracked(my own fault I ran into a tree)

So, was it the sector gear, or both visible gears (sector and sun)?

If Z-Shot looked at it, likely it was Steven at Empire Airsoft who did the work, unless Wallace did it himself.

If I was closer to you, I'd look at it for you. Unless you have another gig in Fort Mac coming up.

There was a case where a fellow from the U.S. had 1 tooth on the sector gear break, but it broke clean and caused no other damage. I think the rack gear is tougher than the sector gear, so that would most likely be the one to go in a "confrontation".

If you need compatible gears, I have some planetaries, but that's all. The sector gear I have is from Gen 1 and the sensor holes are in a different location.

Send me pics if you can, even via e-mail if you have no image host.

this time it was only the gears that made the contact with the cylinder the first and second time was both gears, the package I got was originally from Systema Japan

Well. if necessary, maybe you could send me the gearbox, and I can see what I find. I can talk to Wallace as well about parts for it.

Question: Have you inspected & pulled apart any of the cylinders that were involved with the gun failures?
Have these cylinders been tested in other guns?

Just wondering if anyone has come up with a theory on this M90 /full auto, gear stripping problem? Was mentioned also with M90 other problems .Just curios as to what kind of problems,to look out for.(just got a M90 for indoor).

Have had 490 related problems already,now I have to watch my low power cylinder too ;) .

When you close your receiver, is there no resistance or does it take some pressure to get the two halves to close properly.

I found that I had an M90 start to strip the cylinder gears (stock) at an indoor game, turns out I had too few shims on the buffer tube cap.

I'd suggest checking this, and if you can close your receiver without resistance, add some shims. That's what I did and my ptw is humming along fine since.

I think it also needs to be said that whne you remove the stock tube to install something as simple as a sling adapter, just putting all the parts back in does not guarantee success. You have to return the stock tube to it's pre-removal position. Then make sure it's shimmed properly.

When it's done right, the receivers are hard to open. That's when you know you got it right.