Custom Gun - Bofors Defence Weapon - With PGC
 

Right, I’ve been browsing on here for the last few weeks and I am working on a custom long term gun project.

Brief background - I started Airsoft in August 2007, I have a M15A4 SPC and have now upgraded that fine, I also bought a Galaxy MP5k a few months back, added a CA Metal receiver and also custom fitted a 9.6v battery inside (that was a lot of work). That’s the current guns I have and I had need for a new project to work on. So I started looking around the web for ideas and came across this gun. Now I like it, I’m not one for Mill-Sims Airsoft so I figure this is a good project to take on.

Ideally I could do with setting this up as a Blog because it’s going to take ages and a lot of funds so people can follow it easily. Anyway so far I have the Base gun, the gearbox and some internal upgrades and having a couple of small issues so far. If anyone fancy lending a hand on problems that arise feel free to.

Here is the gun that’s being made :)

http://shop.gameplay.co.uk/images/pr...02857_1_lq.jpg

The Bofors Defence Weapon. It's going to be support class weapon due to the sheer weight I’m forecasting it will end up being... Estimated 8-10kg.

There will be a hell of a lot of electronics, settings, options and modding to do to get this up and running.

Here is a specification so far.

Specification

• Variable Firepower Levels – Standard, Turbo, Assault, Barrage
• Electronic Solenoid Activated M203
• Incremental Shot Counter –With Reset
• Magazine low Warning
• Laser Targeting
• Battery Power Level Monitoring
• M4 Magazine Compatible And Box Magazine Support.
• Semi, Burst Fire, Full Auto
• Master Power On
• Rifle/M203 Selection Then Activated Via Standard Trigger Module
• Custom Battery Pack Feeding 8.4v, 9.6v, 10.8v, 12v
• Secondary Electronics Battery
• Heavy Duty Sling to support the Weight 8-10kg

Ok that’s the basic Spec so far. Here are the current parts I have, which is by no means anywhere near 1/4 of the total parts for the entire thing.

Parts list For Gun Shell + Internals.

• A.G.M HK417
• PGC Pro-Win 8mm Gearbox
• Systema Turbo Motor
• 12v Intellect Battery
• PGC Cylinder head
• 247mm Ported Cylinder (Not decided if using the A.G.M one or aftermarket
• PGC Nozzle - Or Prometheus (Problem here due to length)
• Prometheus Ball bearing Spring Guide
• PGC Tappet Plate
• Systema Hop Rubber
• PGC 8mm Ball Bearings
• Currently the standard Brass barrel the A.G.M came with. Most likly it will be a Prometheus 6.03mm
• Prometheus Hard Piston
• Prometheus POM Piston Head
• Prometheus High Speed Gears
• Prometheus Anti Reversal Latch
• Prometheus Shim Set
• M90-M100 Spring For 330fps
• A.G.M Trigger Switch for now - Possibly Guarder Anti Heat Trigger


Ok problems so far is with the air seal inside the hopup chamber. This is supposed to be a really tight seal however the air nozzle is limited with how far forward it can go due to the tappet plate’s front wall thickness. There seems to be a 0.3mm Air gap when the nozzle is pushed forward, i can see the slight tapered edge of the nozzle in the bb feed hole still. If i push it forward manually witha screwdriver tip that extra smal distance the airseal is far better i'd guess at 40% better compression, so i need to wrok out a way to extend this.

Ideas i have come up with so far are using a platic glue/weld to build micron layers up to extend it, silicon sealant (not sure on this because it may come off easily) or if there are any other nozzles for other guns tha maybe longer that i could modify shorter to the correct length.

Any ideas on this nozzle issue would be welcome. Many thanks!

I can't see your pic

Shows up for me..... Images blocked for you? If so here is a direct link too.

http://shop.gameplay.co.uk/images/pr...02857_1_lq.jpg

yeah stupid office pc, that link doesnt work either, will check when I get home

The whole top front section of that weapon in the pic is a g36c;

http://airsoft.shopbrno.cz/zbozi-fotky/g36c.jpg

So if you could find a cheap ACM g36c spring for parts might be your best bet.

Good luck!

Yea thats what i first thought when i saw the pic months back, G36 Mags (give away with the mag links).

I was origionally going to use a G36 because of the obviosu base of teh gun, however the problem was i wanted to use PGC gearbox and its V2, G36 as far as i could find is V3, also the Handgrip is built in, so i couldnt change teh grip over and the final point was the RIS front because i need to bulk out the gun i thoguht RIS front would be ideal. The stock would aso have required M4 conversion to a stock base for that. All these points made me actually sway away from the G36 for a base.

Thats the reason i went with HK416 so i have a solid full mental base to work on.

Other parts am looking in to are these

* G36 Top front - Anyone know of a metal edition?

*This has potential for teh First sight section before the G36 Top -

http://i17.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/9e/1e/40af_1.JPG

*This for teh grenade launcher function ( I think in the game its from its a shotgun but i want grenade)

http://i14.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/ec/48/4488_1.JPG

*This for the Front 38mm Flash Hider, unless anyone knows of a silver and fatter one?

http://www.ehobbyasia.com/ebayphoto_...ka-Fh-09-n.jpg

*This for the grip undecided, possibly one of these two. Then possbily modify, or any other suggestions?

http://i21.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/d9/44/6e46_1.JPG
http://i10.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/87/59/7997_1.JPG

Very ambitious. I wish you luck, and I'm gonna watch this closely, should look pretty cool in the end.

I hope so too!

Managed to fix the Air leakage on the nozzle. I had to get a carpenters square and line that up to the front of the tappet plate then gradually very lightly file a small portion (luckily not too much).

I'm not entirly sure how to do the shell yet and build up around the internals. There are going to be a lot of electronics also so i'm looking in to custom making pcb's or using donated circuits however these will probably be dipped in to resin/varnish several times to water proof the componants and help protect them.

I'm looking for suggestios still for the stock (Thinking of fitting an M4 stock and canibolising one), the top front rail ( The G36 style is spot on but i need full metal i think however it looks like its a split upper rail so im wondering of maybing doing a semi futuristic style twin top split design like a V shape.

It wouldnt exactly be like this below but you can get the idea. I showed the low profile rail red dot in an earlier post so that needs line of sight down the top so i thoguht maybe a twin Ris mount (See pic 1) possibly two- tier (using the top of the red dot. Then use two long rails between these two base points. Either bending if they could be or modifying in a way, unsure yet.

The prowin i managed to get inside the gun last night (I have a ton of photos of progress bits so far but i thinki need a blog space lol)

Pic 1

http://i13.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/c7/64/5d24_1.JPG

Pic 2

http://www.airsoftgi.com/images/starg36upper.jpg

I produce 2D, 3D graphics and animation for my work soi hope to have a fully produced 3D representation of this, also splitting apart to show wiring diagrams and internal componant layouts.

I think i'm going to require some cheap seccond hand parts to modify such as stocks, rails, and such (live in uk) however if anyone knows how to get hold of some bits let me know. I dont really want to pay the full 50$ for an M4 stock here as i plan on cutting it up completly lol. So suggestions on getting used parts and spares would be welcome.

I'll try get the rought wiring diagram up soon.

That's quite a project. Good luck and keep us updated!

Yea it is rather ambitious lol! I'm not sure how to do some of the work for it yet! especially to do with the amount of electronics and the shell..

So far i think i'm ok with the Main gun setup and rebuild with the PGC gearbox in it, the 12volt with 5 power feeds of that, the voltage selectin, the M203 with solenoid i think will be ok and the extreme first burst fire computer.

I do wonder if that could be programmed further to helpwith other aspects i want to achieve. If there are any wizzards with electronics out there and know how to work with LCD displays that would be a hell of a help!

i think the Battery level will be an issue unless i retrofit a consumer grade battery level checker and wire it into the circuit to work once the master arm is turned on.


Currently i could do with suggestions on the Flash Hider (bigger the better as on the image it looks rather beefy and that King Arms one is 38mm, anyone know any around teh 50mm mark?)

I've thoguht about making this Box mag capable also, purple due to the punishment this will be able to dish out and that it is fully intended as a suport weapon.

This is a possible idea, however i dont think it would be able to keep up with the weapons firepower. I think i would need to change out the box mag motor, and power system and increase that drastically to keep up with the high speed if its required. Thoughts?

This was the one i was looking at as i think it would work withhthe overall design look.

http://ebaybanned.com/product_info.p...roducts_id=182

Another couple of parts have just been ordered.

1 - watts up meter power system tester analyser

2 - 5pk of Gripy Deans Connectors.

http://i23.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/f7/4f/70fd_1.JPG

The LCD display on the gun side will give feedback on voltage stability the battery is outputting, how many mAh are left (Roughtly 1mAh = 1 Fired bb) this means can esitmate shots remaining from the weapon.

Here is the spec of this module.

*********************
* Ensure peak currents are safe for motor, wiring and connectors
* Check battery health and whether battery should be retired
* Evaluate R/C battery charging efficiency
* Verify that the minimum voltage while operating is within specifications
* Choose the best propeller or gearing and the most efficient motor
* Check for wiring and connector power losses
* Measure power and energy consumption of ANY device with a battery


Key Features:

Measures energy (Wh), charge (Ah), power (W), current (A) and voltage (V)
Connector to use a receiver battery for measurement down to 0 V
Captures current peaks and voltage minimums(droops)
Accurate & precise - 0.01 A current and 0.01 V voltage resolutions
Rugged - handles 50 A continuous and 100 A peak at 60 V
14 ga., 7 x 37 stranded, high temp silicone rubber insulated wire without connectors
Small & Light: 2.8" long x 1.7" wide x 0.83" thick (70 mm x 44 mm x 21 mm), 2.5 oz.
Acts like a wire so doesn't affect model's performance. Precision current sensing resistor, with only 0.001 Ohm resistance and circuitry only draws 0.007 Amps
Uses DSP to increase ADC resolution and differential measurement amplifiers to increase noise immunity
Factory calibration stores constants in EEPROM to compensate for component tolerances
One Year Warranty
Complete User Manual
Specifications:

Voltage 0-60 V, resolution 0.01 V. That's a 14 cell series li-poly pack!
Current 0-100 A peak, 50 A continuous, resolution 0.01 A
Charge 0-65 Ah, resolution 0.001 Ah. That's ~32 Amps for two hours!
Power 0-6500 W, resolution 0.1 W. That's ~8.7 Horsepower!
Energy 0-6500 Wh, resolution 0.1 Wh. That's lifting a 50 pound model into outer
space (65 mi.)!
Operates from 4.0-60 V, 0 V with optional receiver battery pack
16 x 2 STN LCD display
Powerful, 8 MIPS micro-controller

***************************

Here are some images of the module, the green case will be inside the gun and i'm hoping to use a Blue Gel/ Celophane pannel to make it a more bluish colour.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/r...8/WattsUp5.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/r...8/WattsUp4.jpg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/r...8/WattsUp3.jpg

Thats interesting! Can't wait till its done man, good luck.

The Power monitor arrived today along with the deans connectors.

Also i've done the first draft for the wiring diagram but its only for the Power reading, voltage selection and the main gun and Grenade option. The extra features circuits have not been worked out yet :)

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/CircuitDiagramWIP.jpg

looks like you got your shit really together, cant wait to see the result.

sorry if i missed it in the original post but whats this gun from?

Yea thats the plan!!! It's not all fully planned yet :) but im good at thinking on the fly. The Power monitor chips im toying with the idea of using Celophane/DJ Gel to change the front of the Greenish LCD to a blue along with possibly lighting it up using a couple of Blue LED's.

I think the gun was from a Pre-order Deal for BF2142. Basically if you pre-ordered the game i think there was a model/skin included as a little extra. I've not seen it any more than the pic i have included in the post thoguh.

It's slowly coming along. I think its going to be long term though... Need more funds!!!

Little Update

Added deans connectors and heatshrunk seals to the Power Monitoring Computer. Also done a couple of really rough full size outlines. Toilet Roll Tube (Simulated Grenade Launcher!!)

Stripped Down Gun With Internals.

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/ProjectTGun.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunLayout1.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunLayout2.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunLayout3.jpg

For the stop you can use a nerf longshot back.

Thanks for the reply, do you have any images of this idea?

Currently the stock is posing an issue. I'm not sure which direction to go with at the moment but it may be tha ti have to fully construct one.

Need mre funds at the moment to buy the grenade launcher..too.

Anyone know if you can buy an M203 standard grip from anywhere? I need one of those and have not seen them sold separatly yet.

There is another community out there that is like us airsofters...except strangely it's about customizing and upgrading nerf weapons (again with superpowered springs and such).

Stock
http://images.entertainmentearth.com...HNR61983lg.jpg
Modified
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/9...ngshot1if9.jpg

Since you are pretty much building a science fiction gun, I venture most of the exterior you want can be scavanged from various toy weapons or model kits instead of expensive airsoft parts (which should be reserved for the internals).

you could go with a JG416 full stock. it has plenty of room for batterys.

Yea i did wonder about the full M4 style stock, but i dont think there will be enough room.

I use a full stock on my M15A4 SPC and i use a 9.6 large battery. 12v battery is 3 cells more... Plus i have electronics to house in there also.

I'm starting to wonder if i should use the crain stock tube (strong mounting strength) and custom make a rear stock in the shape of the picture.

I want to avoid plastic parts really the reason being is, its costing alot of money and there will be a hell of alot of electronics inside this beast so i want exterior strength to protect them ideally.

I need an airsoft scrap parts supplier lol. Tempted to try the M4 stock approach but they cost 50$ here and if i just cut it up its another expensive warenty void :P

I think every single part in this projects warenty will be void lol..

I need a Mosquito Moulds Mini M203 but they cost 280$ here :| :(

Just made a phone call to a shop about the launcher. The chap said he might be able to get one without the grenade! :D

160$ If so i'm gonna be well pleased as i can alot of grenades for 120$ 3-4 instead of 1 that would be included!

Stay tuned!

Buy a G&P Fullstock... There's PLENTY of room for a 12V battery.

Really?? My M15 Stock can only just house a 9.6 8 cell battery... Then 12v jobby is 2 more...

The two additional cells aren't placed inline with the rest, but offset underneath... so you get:
_______________
|___|___|___|___|
|___|___|___|___|
|___|___|

You need to remove the butt plate entirely in order to put the battery in, but it should fit.

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=17737

This sand color version M16A2 stock fit marui M4A1 series, it can hold 12v large battery without modification. Constructed by ABS plastic. Metal stock ring & connection wire Included

http://img.redwolfairsoft.com/upload...g/gp077s-l.jpg



Edit: But more importantly.. Why a 12V?

Start of the thread explains all. Variable power outputs, Also the grenade launcher with have electronic activation possibly using a 12v push solenoid.

Instead, install a 5000mAh 11.1v LiPo.

You will have about 13v at peak, and plenty enought power, in the space of a 8.4v pack.

You can get some in hard cases if you are worried about LiPos..

Check Trinity LiPo battery packs.

Then, for power selection, you can use a custom program with a Triggermaster FET and change the PWM percentage sent to the FET.

UPDATE

King Arms G16 Slim Grip orderd.

Yea i'm not too into lipo. For this project especially i'm tapping of variable voltages so i dont think lipo will be able to do this and programming the trigger master i think for now would be beyond me.. Ponders this comment then decides it would be done. Thats an interesting idea thats for sure... Hummm You have me thinking now!

Sheesh I havt seen 500mAh Lipos... The ones ive mainly seen are 2200 ish.. Any links to that Hard box and those batteries you speak of?

You will have to be able to disconnect every cell past 8.4v to charge your pack, because using only say 7 cells in a 10 cells pack, you will get a different discharge in your first 7 cells, and charging the pack as a whole will destroy the remaining 3 cells in under 20 charges.

Plus, if you start looking into C programing, you will see that the changes you have to do to the trigger master program are not that big.

You can use a multi switch, like the ones on old sound systems to change input/output. Wire each switch with a different resistor and compare each voltage with the PIC. You only need to use 1 analog input on top of the regular digital input used normally.

You could even use a potentiometer and simply use it as a PWM control over the PIC's output. That way you could control percentage instead of steps.

Hell, you could use some 14.4v packs in there.

11.1v is the best voltage to use since most CMOS based chips are referenced to 12v.

here is the link to some packs. There is a whole lot more out there. If you are looking for safe packs, check ROAR's authorized packs. They send the packs through extreme tests, including over charge/discharge, NiCd charger, drop, perforation etc.

They are not making 5000's in hard cases, but these are the size of a 7.2v Sub-C pack.

You can get many 5000+ packs for airplanes and helicopters.

http://www.teamorion.com/Products/SL...Platinum+SLPB+

Here is the link to ROAR's website:

http://www.roarracing.com/approvals/lipobattery.php

All these packs are known safe to every extend. You can drive a nail in them and not worry about your hand been removed.

Man this gun is going to kick ass

Hehe i sure hope so... I mentioned it to a game site i go to and he said you can take everyone else on single handidly in that lol.

I'm working on an armour/suit high tech design to go with it also. I drew this a few weeks ago now and it wasnt 100% finished but its the idea. Looking in to ideas and hardware to kit it out with so ideas all welcome :).

Basically as its going to be a support gun i think im going to need extra battery packs. I'm thinking on that Lipo idea now along with standard ones and actualy not having Battery packs as such... More like Power Packs. I'm starting to thin about housing a chunk of electronics and battery cells all within a custom powercel shell with a Conector on the end that would allow fast change overs for ingame if i have spares with me.

The arour idea is to use airsoft/molle parts/ Flight and Motocross armour parts along with a few others, and basically modding them all and fitting them together.

Here is the concept. Go easy its not very good, drew late at night and it was a few weeks ago lol. So far you can see the helmet cam idea.but trying to work out some other ideas to pimp it up and give me and obscene advantage..

Motion tracking, IR positioning ;) Radar, Site Map uploaded to GPS with mission locations locked in...Sound triangulation for enemy positions..... Yea i wish..

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/Concept.jpg

Also Good shout on the electronics.

********
You will have to be able to disconnect every cell past 8.4v to charge your pack, because using only say 7 cells in a 10 cells pack, you will get a different discharge in your first 7 cells, and charging the pack as a whole will destroy the remaining 3 cells in under 20 charges.
********

Yea that was the idea i had in mind but yea i see where your coming from on the different discharge rates. Using resistors i guess wastes power overall but it would probably keep the batery overall in a better condition.



********
Plus, if you start looking into C programing, you will see that the changes you have to do to the trigger master program are not that big.
********

Have you done any work with the trigger master? I did wonder about teh possibility of adding to the programming on this for other functions on the gun.

********
You can use a multi switch, like the ones on old sound systems to change input/output. Wire each switch with a different resistor and compare each voltage with the PIC. You only need to use 1 analog input on top of the regular digital input used normally.

You could even use a potentiometer and simply use it as a PWM control over the PIC's output. That way you could control percentage instead of steps.
********

More interesting ideas there... Thats good, i like having more ideas thrown about... It helps prevent expensive mistakes :)and generlaly shows better ways of doing things!

I just downloaded and opened the Triggermaster .c file.

It can be done, but you would need a A/D converter to be used before the chip, since the microprocessor they have used is digital only.

I am looking to find an other MP that can use direct analog inputs to make it easier for some projects.

Actually, using a larger MP could allow you to incorporate the LCD display, voltage control, burst control and shot count all in the same circuit.

I am looking at some MicroChip PIC controlers. I have worked with their 16 bit series before and got some good results controling a few h-bridges. Even driven some servo motors and did some slave control once (the differential algorithm was not good though).

I find you project interesting. I will see if I can get a triggermaster and some extra MPs... I am sure there is some interest in a variable voltage setup.

wow theres a great deal of words i never heard before but it sounds like your on your way to making the best gun ever
good luck on your gun and i hope one day i could make a gun like that :P

jeezum crowe man. do you realize what you will do to your piston after a few seconds of firing? Im sorry to rain on your parade of well wishing, and I do wish oyu the best of luck with this project, but an Intellect 12V, Deans, (im assuming fuse removal, and what switch are you going to use that will not immediately fry when you pull the trigger?), and Prometheus HS gears!!

good god man you arent building a gun youre building a piston stripping machine with that set up. You got to take it down to at least like a 10.8v Id go for just a 9.6 if youre going to have multiple batteries, at least take two teeth of the front of your sector gear and at least get an Angel Chopayya piston. At least. Id slow that beast down more. As is youll probably get a few seconds worth of playable time with it shooting 30+ rounds per second. Ive got to commemorate your optimism, but at a certain point it just becomes unrealistically impractical man.

again, good luck.

oh and stick in more than an m90-m110. It will also help your piston stay alive, and, (im assuming this is an outdoor gun, yes?) of course give you a higher fps, greater accuracy.

lol frikken bf2142 weapon you could only get if you pre-ordered the game...

LOL I have the best prometheus Piston in there currently. But yea i am aware that it would strip pistons and need ongoing maintinence. This is the reason behind the variable voltage options.

Feeds for 8.4v Selection - Standard Rates of fire - Easy going game.

Feeds for 9.6v Selection - Starting to assist in pushing forward with the team.

Feeds for 10.8v Selection - Situation is getting a little Hairy and a few of the team players i am with are shot reducing our numbers.

Feeds for 12v Selection - Things are up shit creek, all my teams been shot, im the last man standing and need to guard a missin objective... Guns set to 12v, electronic grenades are at the ready and i would be set to go judge dread/ robocop on anyones ass coming near!

The projec tis using Mosfets, these reduce current to the triger assembly down to like 10 miliamps, not 40+ Amps that would most likly melt it. This will prevent and remove the chance of trigger falior.

They key with a project like this is to reduce the failior of every single section of the gun to as low as possible or channel the failior in a direction you know where it will occur. If i can remove the falior to just general piston wear i would be happy. The Pro-win gearbox would let me stripa new piston out and place a new on in within minutes so this would be an idea *intended wear point*

Again lol.. Any link to that sugested piston and other reasons for it? The slow down is not really needed. As mentioned i will most likly use 8.4 or 9.6 most of the time. The 10.8 and 12v is for situations where i'm taking on 3-4+ people on my own.

Humm... That is a thought. I do use a Prometheus MS110 in the M15A4 SPC i upgraded... The gearbox would be able to handle the high fps and say 350fps no worries also... Hell i'll just order in springs between 300 and 350 fps and check the ROF with the Madbull Chrono to get an idea... Besides i can always do spring changes too. Yea it is going to be an outdoor gun too. But the gearbox will allow it to be lowered to indoor fps..

Out limits here are 328fps indoors - Strickt) and outdoors there is a 10% diviation to a maximum of 350-360fps at some sites that allow this.

Cheers for the replies!

The thing that makes me positive on this is this...

My M15A4 SPC ran for 9 months under powered at 280fps... With the Stock internals. The CA piston came out after, wait for it..... 80,000bb's and it was unmarked... I mean utery brand spanking new looking and thats on a 9.6v speed from day 1 with about 18-20bb's per seccond fire rate...

That is not bad going at all...

Don't worry about piston stripping.

I run all my guns at 11.1v with LiPo packs. None get damaged in the process. Using a Ms120 spring, I get a nice 395 fps, and ROF over the roof.

Simply use a standard ration gearset, shim correctly and use a TM stock piston. These are the best around.

Yea i would have thoguht it would be ok, not for full use 247 - Very trigger happy i am :)

But yea i was considering the CA piston, Prometheus Hard one (already in the gun), I have also heard TM ones are very good. I do have a feeling i will go through a few before i find the best one and have the gun setup :)

I can't wait till its done although i know it will take a while to do, it shall rule :)

Except if you're one of the only guys left taking on a bunch of guys, you'd want to conserve ammo...not waste it by having a crazy ROF.

It's a support gun.... It will use a box mag too. Possibly high caps also.. It's also not a milsim gun so no ammo limits.

If someone hasn't offered already, I have this particular weapon in game, and if you need something for screen captures i can see what i can do.

Can you post some pictures of what the gun looks like so far? This is very interesting...

I don't know if we're talking about the same thing, but the Trigger Master has two unused analog inputs (AUX0, AUX1) that use the built-in ADC.

The GetVoltage() function is used to read the voltage present on either of those pins. You can then do different things based on what voltage is present.

For example for my Virtual 30 Round Mags mod, I just used it as a switch (reads either 0V or 5V depending on switch state) but it could just as easily -- for example -- do "X" if you read 0V, do "Y" if you read 2.5V, and "Z" if you read 5V, or whatever. Or any range in between.

That would help ALOT! Especially also the 3rd person views, like another player looking at the gun to show all sides.. Would be apreciated if you could get those! Cheers


Thats definatly interesting! Ideally i'd like this to be done up to the nines...

LCD read outs, Custom lighting, I saw a Muzzle Flash mod for the trigger master too! That would be quite cool! Everyone would know to avoid me at all costs then ;)

Sound effects would be novel lol!

Yes, but using these mean that you have to burn the internal fuse and you cannot reprogram it after.

I have found a chip that allows to be reprogramed WHILE on the board, with a serial interface. It uses a 12v programing signal instead of pre-initializing and using the AUX port to program.

I am working on USB interface using a very basic VB interface to program the basic functions, and an "advanced" mode to enter direct C editing.

The chip I found allows for 6 digital ports and 4 analog ports to be used. to use the 4 analog ones, you have to switch the 4 correcponding ports, but this can be done in the main loop, instead of during initialisation.

It also has 2 8bit clocks that can be set to run as a 16bit clock instead. (Where the AVR micro controler only has one 8bit clock)

This allows for a more accurate reading. It also has a built-in analog comparator, usefull for the idea of voltage selector...

If the unit is programmed to run various other functions, would other batteries be needed? or could everything be ran from the same battery at the same time?

Everything can be run from the same battery.

Using a LiPo 11.1v would give a very usable 12v, that would simply have to be reduced to 5v for TTL components.

The chip I found is also made in SO-8 form factor, allowing a very small footprint. Since a mini USB port would be used for programing, there is no need to use a larger DIP-8 package.

Also, the programer is simply a 12v flash step-up regulator. The one I found is .50$.

It simply converts the 5v serial signal to 12v for programing the chip.

Angels alone are very difficult to find, let a lone Chopayyas. They remove the second to last tooth from the piston completely, and put only 11 teeth on the piston overall, extending the plate on the metal front tooth. Its a piston made specifically for short-stroked, super high-speed set ups, usually in the area of 30 rounds a second. Looks like so:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...6/DSC01996.jpg

And I'd highly recommend a few if you can find them. Ive got one in my P90 running a 10.8v, deans, Systema Turbo, and Modify HS gears, (short-stroked), and I havent had a problem with it yet. Still running the original one I got after about 4 months of play every weekend with it.

Excellent idea on the variable voltage settings.. Just for the sake of being funny Id work out how to construct a voltage switch on the receiver, with settings like "meh," "fast," "SHTF," and "Zombies."

I'd love it if i could get voice output :D heheh... so it says like

8.4v - Standard Fire
9.6v - Rapid Fire
10.8 - Turbo Fire
12v - Bombardment!

Imagining people hear the bombardment setting turned on LOL. I'd $hit my pants and run like hell! lol

Yea on the picture of the gun theres a few outputs, The LCD is gonig to be this Voltage Monitoring Device. Its Damn good! Would like more LCD and Dials and gadgets on this perfornally... Its a futuristic High Tech Gun! Its got to do what its meant to do.... Will also need to test the parts as they need to be durable and resiliant to loads of use.

Only if you select the "Reset disable" fuse. And even then it's only the ISP interface you can't use anymore (you should still be able to read/reprogram the chip with the HV interface if you have a programmer that supports it).

AUX0 (pin 2) is available as an ADC input you can use all you like, and reprogram the chip all you want with the ISP interface.

But RESET (pin 1) is also AUX1. By disabling RESET your program can use the RESET pin as AUX1, but then you can no longer reprogram the chip using the ISP interface.


The new chip you found sounds pretty cool, though.

How are you planning on constructing the receiver?
I saw something about a G36, but what else will this be made out of? Id recommend making it somehow at least water resistant, but, dunno what youre going to make it out of.. Lost of plasticard? Have someone CNC machine a receiver?

I'm not entirly sure yet. Yes it will need to be water resistant as much as possible. Heatshrink will be used alot and also any circuits will be dip coated in resin/varnish to waterproof them.

CNC would be a dream come true lol but iamgine the cost for a one off custom CNC piece of work!

I could make the CAD/3D model shell i guess and do the work but the machine would need to use this and still mill out the marts. It would also need to be precision exact, so yea still not sure on this yet..

A friend of mine is a very good at welding so this maybe an option to take.

Titanium/Stainless Steel/Steel power coated etc. Hummm Loads of options so yea this sure is a longish term project but it hopefully will be awsome.

I've been looking at the Li-Poly battery route and im still not convinced to be honest. a 5000mah one is really really expensive here. $200+ and a charger would be needed too. This thing has the potentional to pi$$ out bb's so ideally i would like a backup battery pack too.

I think Ni-Mh might still be the best route for this. Not decided yet.

I don't know where you are getting your batteries...

It cost me about 120$ for a 5000mAh 11.1v battery, including shipping cost.

Also, you can use a lower capacity battery. There is no need to have a battery that you don't need to recharge more than once a month. I think that a 3000 ish one would be far enought for a 2 days game.

Remember that if you run the 11.1v pack at only the equivalent of 9.6v, you will get about 30% extra runtime. (because the motor will accelerate faster than just 9.6v and because the current will not be on full time)

A good charger will set you back only 80-100$.

DonP, the chip I plan to use is a PIC12F serie from Microchip. The fun part is that any pin can be programmed as RESET, and the chip can be programmed even if the two programming pins are used by the program. (And without disconnecting the PIC from the board)

Ahh i'm in the uk - We get Ripped on prices for things lol! hence the price hike!.. Guess i got some time to plan still.

The Gun Grip G16 Slimlines on its way and the Scope/Reddot Combi is also En route!

Batteries are not restricted import items in any country to what I know.

And you can get some at your LHS (Local hobbyshop). These are made for R/C Helicopters/planes/cars

Very true, my other intellect batteries i always import because its cheaper than here.

Also I had the G16 Grip arrive today and i'm confused. The King Arms Grip is advertised for M -series AEG's however there is no way this one will fit without heavy modification as the Grips throat that slots on to the gearbox is far too narrow.

Has anyone else had this issue? Apart from that the grip looks amazing!

I think i am doomed for every single part to need the warenty voiding thats for sure because i think i'm going to have to remove alot of plastic to get this one to fit!


***EDIT***

Ok, i have just found out why.... I got out the OLD AGM V2 Gearbox and the grip is still a tight fit but slots on fairly easily. It's the Pro-Win Gearbox, its wider than a standard one and it was just LUCK that the old AGM handle fitted on perfectly... Hummm....

Moding time !!!

Holy crap.

Good luck... and... can I have one too?

I might actually do the same thing one day when I can put the money together.

Would be cool to have another try it :) But I will have been the first ;) LOL... This is also not a project for the faint hearted heh.... Every part is modified somehow meaning mistakes = Ultra Expensive... No Warenties too ug!

Totals so far.... Bearing in mind this is nowhere near all the parts yet. No electronics, No batteries, no bodywok, no grenade launcher and grenades, no fire computer chips, no high voltage power switching, no upper rails and top custom rail setup. no box mag, no box mag internal upgrades (motor, power etc so yea lots to go!)

These prices include any postage and if i was unfortunate enough to get Customs charges (Most get through without).

A.G.M HK416 -------------- £151.99
PGC Pro-Win 8mm ----------£130.79
Prometheus Upgrades ------£85.46
Watts UP Power Monitor ----£34.46
G16 Grip -------------------£15.97
ACTION Red Dot Scope -----£20.98
Systema Turbo Motor ------£60


Total ----------------------£499.65 USD = $983.055 CAD = $1,004.27

Oh hell... I hate adding it up... It's depressing how much its costing lol! I think it will be fine in the end when its done because there is something to show for it. At the mo its alot of parts and pieces etc. I dont want to add it up agian lol.

And Unfortunatly... There is a hell of a long way to go yet!

Which sums up nicely how I have no problem letting you do it, and post your troubles and fixes first :p

LOL Cop out ;) Where is the fun in that ;D

The fun is in keeping my wallet from mutinying at the moment... Despite how much I'd love to try my hand at this, I can't afford it at the moment, and since I've no idea how, I'll let you pave the way... but watch your back ;)

hahaha I play Battlefield 2142 and have the modded scar11 unlocked, I recognized it right away, ambitious project, good luck.:tup:

Any chance of those screen captures?

Also

UPDATE

As the gun grip didnt fit i thoguht i would start modding it :)

Here are the pictures.. For this you need 1 brand new razer sharp chizzle. The Nylon material that the grip is made from comes away just like wood working with a new chizzle resulting in plastic shavings.

This took about 30 mins woth of time making sure not to remove my fingers. I know it doesnt look perfect as it needs sanding and tidying up some. It's also not a 100% perfect fit yet, however gonig from the stage of you cant fit it on at all to this far isnt bad in the time.

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/gripminusplastic.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/gripminusplastic2.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/gripongun.jpg

Here's some images I found on yahoo...

http://battlefield.ea.com/battlefiel...sault_scar.gif

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/6260/normalvl9.jpg

A variable speed dremel or similar tool is your best friend when doing heavy modding like this IMO. They do just about everything you could think of when it comes to a project like this.

after reading this thread about this awesome mega project i really wanted to say something great but i can only think of a few things

wow
holy shit dude
good luck
cant wait to see the finished result

Marriot I have built a few of the 8 mm pro-wins now and you may want to stick with the springs the mech box comes with. In all cases a Systema M130 shoots 460fps, a Madbull M120 shoots 420fps and M110s shoot 390fps all with .20s. The weaker spring of the two that PGC sends you should meet you needs.

Yea i have thought about getting one several times. the one worry i have with those little buggers and ive seen this happen. They are so sharp or good at what they do, ie cutting disks, that if you slip you prety muchslice through anything in the way lol! A least doing things by hand limits the amount of expensive cockups you can actually do. Sure the electric tool may be faster but this could result in mahoosive expensive mistakes hehe!


An excellent choice of words there :D +1

Humm i did think about that. THe one i got came with M130 and a M80. I have chrono'd both springs and the M130 shoots about 440fps and the M80 shoots about 285fps... (Generally M80's shoot about 245fps i've found so the air sealing on the pro-win is working well. I'm wondering if maybe an M90 would be best for this project because i think with this gearbox it will be about 320 possibly. Site limits here ate 328fps +10% on certain sites that allow this 10% to be used (Generally outdoor ones).

Cheers for the posts people! Hopefully the RedDot will be here soon! Funds low :( and i really badly need the Mosquito molds mini launcher!

LOL Donations welcome hehe!

However i had a result yesterday! managed to find a chap who would sell me the M203 standard hand guard - Going to modify this and add it on to the Mini launcher when i get it. - Result!

UPDATE

The fun continues!!! M203 Grip and Red Dot Just arrived!!!

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/203grip.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/RedDot.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress2.jpg

I really want that Mini Launcher and the Top RIS Setup lol.... I think that might be a little while off now though for the momnent.

dude i hope you realize pics and words of a finished product simply wont be enough for a project of this magnitude. i think i speak for enough of us when i say........
we will require a youtube video review/demonstration also

Hehe, I hear ya :) With any luck once the full kits setup - "IF" and i mean if i can get the armour plans setup too that will have video reccoring gear in - Hopefully with large amounts of storage for footage with can be edited to videos :D

Youube Video/Demo is not a band idea!

Also small update :) I was gaming a couple of days ago and at the site my eyes homed in and saw someone with the Mini launcher i have been eyeing up for months. He paid £140... $ 280 :O Owchy lol... And it confirmed my previous research and word of mouth points that the grenade it comes with is not very good. So i spent a while on the net and started hunting around worldwide for this little bugger.

Found it at a shop that sells it With and Without the Grenade!!!! $105 Without the grenade :D Postage was high though like 47$ but the total still came to about half the price they cost here - so i ordered it lol.... It should be on its way soon.. There are not too many more Large purchases left now which im relieved at!

Stock is still making me think alot on how to pull it off. I'm still thinking 0.8mm mild steel thats formed/welded together maybe best. Then giving it a good coating and sealing in. Still not 100% - Not keen on the plastic approach.... The front of the gun is all solid metal so i need counter balance weight.
Any Ideas.. Let me know!

Stay tuned!

Ok.... That’s good service... This is from a Japan shop.

Check this out... 2 Frigging days from posting! (Missed Mondays post) But Geez! And No Customs Whoop Whoop.

************

Posting Date Posting Time Drop-off Point
15-Jul-2008 15:04 Kwong Wa Street Post Office

Date # Location Delivery Status
15-Jul-2008 Hong Kong Item posted and is being processed.
15-Jul-2008 Hong Kong Processed for departure.
15-Jul-2008 Hong Kong The item left Hong Kong for its destination on 16-Jul-2008
16-Jul-2008 United Kingdom Arrived and is being processed.
16-Jul-2008 United Kingdom In transit.
17-Jul-2008 United Kingdom Arrived the delivery office and is being processed.

**********

PS Seller is awsome... Big letters on the declaration form - BIRTHDAY GIFT hehe Win!


Anyhow, it’s only just arrived but here are some pictures of it quickly fixed to the lower rails. Can now at least start working out the best way for eh M203 Grip to be added. I think on first looking it maybe a good idea to split the grip into two parts. I wanted to keep it as one part but it's actually a fair bit longer than the launcher and therefore would cause opening issues for the grenade to enter.

Any thoguhts?

Here are a few pictures with it mounted and you can see how long the M203 grip is in relation to the Launcher.

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress3.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress4.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress5.jpg

Not sure what access you would have to tools, but if you even just have a hack saw you could trim the grip to the same length as the launcher. However, the whole front end sits really low, just curious if that may be too low to hold comfortably.

Yea i was thinking hacksaw would be the best best after carefully working it out.... Only have one grip lol. The main thing with this is trying not to muck anything up because it will cost more lol.

The grip on there is just resting in pics 2 and 3, so it will fit over the launcher when its done. In picture 1 it shows the grip a little high hence the red arrow would be ideally where it would be situated. It's fairly low down but it's actually really comfy. As its a support gun thats going to weigh a lot i think it will still have a sling on it and so its not going to be a gun brought up to eye level that offen. Imagine holding a gun around the waitline.

Started to do some work to the grip and Mini Launcher. Removing some of the Grenade launchers mechanism and trimming back the grip.

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/CutM203Grip.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/Mini...erInPieces.jpg

Mananged to get the grip attached. Still needds work but heres the updated progress. I think the front exces will be removed, then the back of the mini launcher ground down. After that i may used the excess front section to fit towards the rear. The gap behind the Launcher is essential as this will be a section where electronics and solenoids will be housed for teh electronic fire controls.

I've not worked out how i'm going to cope with the front yet, as even when its trimmed flush to the front some space will be needed for the launcher to tip up for loading.

The origional M203 grip had the semi-circle cut away (i think its where it clicks in to the origional launcher) which was ideal for placing around the mini launchers release pin. I'm tempted to make a new release pin that sits slightly lower down to make it easier to open, not that its difficult anyway.

PS- Current Weight is 4.8kg..... Without ammo, box mag, steel stock and bodywork, not upper rail system. no electronics, no electronics power supply and switches etc. Crap......

See what you think to progress! comments and ideas always welcome as with a propject this large its easy to miss things!

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/gripattached.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/gripattached2.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/gripattached3.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress6.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress7.jpg

looks like its really coming together man, keep us updated.

looks like its coming along pretty well
keep updating lol

Hawt damn. I gave up reading on page 3 and just looked for pictures. Too many big words going over my head. All in all, it's a sexy beast and it'll be one gorgeous mofo when it's done. I was considering undertaking some sort of super mod like this, but after readign this, I'm definately not ready for it. Good luck with that, I can't wait to see it when it is done.

Ok, i know these are crap but they took me 2 mins tops to make just to figure out im up the "brown avenue" as this section is not as simple as i origionally hoped for.

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/RailTop1.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/RailTop2.jpg

This could be a royal pain!

I have found Blank Weaver Mount Extrusions though...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ayphotohosting

Any ideas?

What is the useful point of mounting rails like that, and also wouldn't that block your sighting lines to mount stuff over your sight like that?

Well, It's more for the look compaired to the origional image i am following. The front section will be open for viewing through thw red dot/scope so it wont interfear with that. Also if accessories were needed. You actually have 4 Rail sections because they are on 2 tier heights. So if there was actually a use for accessories they could go on there.

But as mentioned its mainly just for the look based on the origional design. It's also not a massive lift up and line up your enemy being its more of a support gun.

That looks like it could be easily done if you're able to find some steel rails and are able to weld.

3 angled cuts then just weld 'em back together, then attach it to a G36 optic carry handle.

I wondered about thatactually, the problem is the main sources i have found for Weaver Rail Extrude tend to be the To6 aluminium... Welding aluminium is hard if i recal? I think needs a different setup to standard steel welding. I've done minimal welding before but i know people who can weld very well.

Little update.... I had an accident with my bank card. It decided to Order a MadBull XM108HP CO2 Grenade :) Then it was polite in letting me know it had done it :)

I thoguht about the XM204HP for the WOW factor for that many bb's but i figured i would try the Limited edition XM108HP to save on ammo and to gain increased power allocated to each bb over the 204 edition. I've found a youtube video with the XM204HP shooting 37 Meters!!!! with 0.25's so i'm guessing the 108 edition at the same pressure will have even greater range!

I plan on getting the XC03 Madbull CO2 refill station but that will have to wait a little while as combined these are not cheap lol. I wanted to order the grenade now because i know the 108 is a limited edition as far as i have found out. Should be here in the morning. but unfortunatly after last weekend i now have no ammo or gas :)...I threw a cheapo speed loader on the order too.

Lots of drooling forcast for tomorrow when it arrives.....

You need to find a some one that has access to a TIG welder to weld aluminum

Update

Mad Bull XM108HP Arrived today!!! - Drool.....

Also here are some new renders for concept rail system, these had the actual gun photo based behind when rough modeling so they should be in proportion approx. The concept is to have the scope/optics slot in to the back to allow interchanges if needed. This means that the upper scope rails would not need to be relied upon and will also help on less complex construction with height tolerences.


http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/cnctop2.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/cnctop3.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/cnctop4.jpg

Interesting man, I like it, creative.

Sorry for the delay all.... I've had a fairly large contract come up so all my times been producing that hence the delay!

However i have a favour to ask...

I've had a set back. With all the connecting and disconecting of the motor one of the terminals has broken.. I've spent ages looking online but there are sooo many electrical connector types avaliable its impossible to find them with generic key words.

I know they are a crimp style. But does anyone know the name? I need to buy the crimp tool and some of the connectors i thnk but its the name i need so i can find the parts to buy!

Many thanks!

These?

http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...roducts_id=284

Yea those are the ones. I need the name for them. I saw some a while ago Pre-Formed at 90 degrees. Most come straight so you have to bend them - which starts the weekening so i was going to try find a pack of them (have a feeling i may go through a fair few of these babies during testing!

UPDATE..

Sorry for lack of coms people. Damn contracts taken up my time solidly for a couple of weeks.... however.. The kaching from it gives me a slight bit of room for more spending :D

Anyway. I was thinking about the gun stock (origionally planned to fabricate one entirly from metal and bolt it on to the Crain stock tube. Someone pointed out previosuly that the G&P M16 stock can take a 12V battery with no modifications so i just ordered one... I also have the full intensin of cuting it up to alow for expanding on it as a base part :D Muhahha

Nearly went el-cheapo because of cuttin git up but i figure this ones probably more robust than a d-boys special.

Now i'm unsure if i will stay with Ni-Mh as previously thoguht. I've started looking in to the sealed unit Li-po's. Still undecided on this really. Any more thoguhts? I think i am also changing the idea of separate battery feeds and going down the individual voltage selection route (resistor) style maybe to reduce wiring and battery damnage. I was toying with the idea also of battery customising. As in not deans or Tamiya. Maybe looking at slot in sockets so the actuall battery pack could be a push and slot in for easy removal with out having to faff about with wires and such inside the stock.

Any thoughts here?

Sooo.. the beasty Flash Hider. I think it wil lbe too long (need a short length but wide in diameter) what i want so i may slice it in half and emove the blackpaint, ploish it up and seal it with laquer/varnish or soemthing like this so it stays a mirror finish silver.

Some posts and ideas/comments suggests would be cool. Threads heading for 10k views already!

Take it easy all!

Another update... I got sick of using random tools avaliable so I purchased a cordless 11.1v Dremel tool... Get in :)

Done some work to the Launcher grip, sliced it up and going to do a split design. Been grinding down the Grenade Launcher with the dremel today to get the other grip section to fit. Needs more work but heres some photos to show the way its heading..

Ummmmmm XM108HP..... Powerfull..... With XC03 C02 adaptor :D

Really want the Stock and the Flash hider now to arrive so i can start butchering those up :)

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress8.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress9.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress10.jpg

Forgot to add a quick power test of the energy levels. The master switch is needed for the gun with this because as soon as the day out starts the meter will keep an eye on power consumption and lower battery levels.

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress11.jpg

Ok... The 2 parts just arrived!!! nice fast postage from ehobby yet again!!!!

I just had a minute break to stick them on to see how it looked and start to work out how to modify the parts. Here are a few photos before i work on the parts to customise them.

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress12.jpg

http://www.3dvirtualtours.co.uk/GunProgress13.jpg

I still see wires!!! (I know it's still in build phase... but they bother me :p)

Are you going to put something over the entire body? Or just tuck the wires inside somewhere? And what about the front end of the grenade launcher? Are you going to mod up something that still allows BB passage, but looks nifty?

I suppose I could go back and read... but it's the time of the shift when I don't have lots of time...

And I still wanna see the finished result!

Why'd you get a stick batt for a full stock?

Sorry on the wires.... They were there for testing some of the electronics. Yea there will be a full body created (hopefully for it) which is why i went with a gunbase with a lot of RIS. Yes there will also be a section built around the grenade launcher. I think i need to lower that down using Scope 20mm Weaver rail Base's, i may alsoadd a full gun length upper rail sustem to add the section above the Flash Hider.

There's alot of work to do still.

Well... The AGM HK416 base had a mini Tamiya connector on he end. My mp5k also uses a stick battery so i just borrowed it to connect up for testing. I still have to decide on Li-po, or 12V Ni-Mh battery pack so i'm using this for now.

Also.... The G&P stock inner design is better than the CA one i have but the CA one is far superior.... Stronger/Metal Buttplate not plastic, Far better battery compartment opening.... To be honest this G&P is turd in comparison... Just the fact that there was less inside to make fitting 12v easier made me choose it.

The one good thing with this project is i get to test out and try alot of parts :D

now for the handle and to reshape your gun , you'll need clay, or something like that to create the piece, then you'll need to make molds and then smelt your pieces, with plastic or metal....and then also make sure they fit...

Take your CA Butt stock end and put it on the G&P one. That's what I did :)

oh my i'm going to be looking forward to seeing THIS!
looks like you are having no troubles making it so far, lets hope you don't run into any big problems! ;)

again, GOOD LUCK! :D

yea i was thinkin that was a hell of a lot of wires too. pray you dont ever have any electrical problems.