G&G Scar-L Problems
 

Got some problems with my almost brand new Aeg, a G&G Scar-L. Paying 600$ for an Aeg that works for one game is really sad I gotta say but some people knows the curse that is following me: Every Aeg I touch breaks. Tm,Jg,A&k and now G&G... I'm really starting to be pissed, I can hardly remember a game where I didnt have any problem at all with my Aeg.

So, introduction's over, lets talk about my Aeg's problem.

I don't know why but for the first 5-10 min of a game, everything works perfectly: good Fps,great feeding and accuracy. After some time, I have some really bad feeding problem: Really damn Low Fps, double or triple feeding, Almost Zero accuracy. I was suspecting an broken Hop-up but suddently the gears started to make a squeaking noice. I say it again: Brand Fucking New.

Please Help

Well i've heard that G&G hop ups suck and that they should be replaced. I'm sure about the gears though.

Sounds the hopup unit was getting blocked, which leads to double or triple feed as the BBs will often stack up enough to push through the blockage. However, eventually one really bad jam developed and your piston is now probably stripped as a result.

You'll have to go inside your mechbox to be sure, but that's my diagnosis.

Ah, seems like i'm not the only with the problem. I can tell you could be your mags. I only had triple or double feeding when I try to use my King arms low cap, but with G&G hi-cap no issue.

However, my King arms one are very used so the magazine spring could be wore out and contributed the problem.

Same problem with G&G High caps, Ca high Caps and Star Low caps :(

Thanks for the advices and help, probably gonna try to look the mechbox and hop-up

What are you feeding
 

your guns?.. craptastic BBs can cause spectacular failures

bb bastard .20

Ok guys, I just checked the hop-up (and saw it's not the same than tm M4) and it looks ok...Motor pinion is ok and the gears looks fine too. Fully cleaned the barrel and now I need your help cause everything looks normal.

Put a drop or 2 of silicon oil (or a quick spray) through the hopup - turn your gun upside down and through the magwell; make sense?

Sounds like a jamming problem which are commonly caused by dry hopups.

Describe the noise in more detail please. I don't think the gears will really squeek. More of a gross grinding noise?

Yeah exactly that kind of noise, gonna oil the hop up and see what happens

Edit: Ok guys, gun was oiled and reassembled and for Now it works great, shoots hard and well. Gonna try to shoot more rounds to see if the problems come back.

Maybe you should buy a PTW lol
Every make of AEG will only last so long on stock parts, that's just how it goes.

Both My M249 and M4 broke after 1 game... Sr-16 and Scar broke after 2-3 games. Wth don't tell me stock parts normaly breaks like that...

I really don't have 2000$ to put on a PTW.

I think you've just got bad luck.

Its just part of airsoft world everything eventually breaks.

I just bought a G&G Scar; this information is good to know, thanks!

Did you open the mechbox and inspect the piston? Two of my team mates had jammnig problems which leads to a stripped/damaged piston teeth if fired in full auto while jammed. One of my buddies was running a systema tightbore and it didn't like Madbull BB's. The other was running a Prometheus and it doesn't like BB Bastards. Both switched brands (to KSC and Excell I believe) and have had no more jamming problems. Oil sometimes fixes it but if you still get persistent jams, switch BB brands immediately. Make sure to clear jams in SEMI AUTO ONLY!!!

Further explanation on the jamming/piston shredding issue can be found here (near bottom): http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...346#post786346

Safest way is to use loading rod/cleaning rod. Trust me clearing jams on semi or full auto is not the way. Chances are you will break the tappet plate.

my two cents.

You're right, the best way would be the cleaning/unjamming rod but I meant out in the field. No one I know carries one in the field and it's a pain to walk back to the vehicles some times. Hell I went through the magwell/hopup with a skinny stick in the field to clear a jam as it wouldn't clear on semi, haha. Worked too:D I've always cleared my jams in semi auto with the mag out and shooting upside down...not entirely sure why, I just think I read that somewhere. It's worked 90% of the time for me and haven't broken any parts doing so (I have yet to strip a piston or break a tappet plate on any of my guns).

Why would it break the tappet plate? Shouldn't make a difference if it is short stroked due to a bb not allowing it to move all the way forward; the cam on the sector gear will come around and pick it up still - no teeth to strip. A bit of added stress in the corner where it 90's up to hold the nozzle but I don't see the little tappet spring exerting enough speed and force to have it break there in the odd time it occurs. I'm not trying to be a dick, I'd honestly like to know why it would break.

Clearing jams by firing semi or full is asking for trouble. If the gun jammed odds are there's a reason, more than likely there's something in the chamber. AEgs' come with a CLEANING & unjamming rod for a reason. If your gun jams "out in the field"-walk off and go clean you fraken barrel. If you just shoot it out or jamming a small stick in the chamber, you could be damaging your hop-up rubber and or grinding debri down your soft brass barrel and scratching the shit out of it. ww2warrior if your hearing grinding gears-oiling your hop-up isn't going to do shit. If you openned your mechbox and don't see anything wrong, and it's still making that sound-take it to a tech because you must have overlooked something.

Picture a jammed bb(2 BB'S stuck in the chamber is worse) in the chamber then pull the trigger on semi or full just clear it increases stress on the back of tappet plate(sector cam contact). Other part that is also prone to damage is the nozzle. Hard to explain the rest but for my years in experience fixing Aeg's with broken tappet plate, bb jamming is one reason why.

Please clarify. The jam will cause the nozzle/tappet plate to not be able to return forward (forward=front of gun) all the way. This will not affect how the cam picks up the follower except that it will be in a slightly different spot on the follower. There is no binding that could occur.

Where do you find the tappet plates breaking? How can you tell it's from a jam (ie. they break while firing w/ a jam or other evidence?) I've only been fixing guns since this winter but I've yet to see a tappet plate break. Still trying to learn myself.

Also, I've seen a bit of silicon oil in the hopups/mags fix MANY firing issues. Sometimes a BB brand switch is needed. Sounds like it did the trick for ww2warrior as well.

Firing in full-auto with a jam WILL cause you're piston to strip, I'm not just talking out of my ass here. You'll hear a lower pitched, gut turning grinding noise (it's not a metal on metal grind which is usually higher pitched). Exact same thing happened to 2 of my team mates after they fired full auto with jams. I replaced both pistons myself. They both had to use a different brand of BB's.

Hey Guys, wow thanks for all the feedback. For now, Looks like the problem is solved, I just oiled the Hop-Up with sillicone oil and for now it's working like a charm, i'll give you more feedback when I'll field the gun next weak.