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-   -   M3 Shell Carrier? (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=74178)

Styrak January 6th, 2009 12:42

M3 Shell Carrier?
 
Just wondering if anyone has had any luck finding something that works as a shell carrier for a M3 shorty (I have a clone DE).

It doesn't have a stock so those are out. I've seen a TM one that attaches to the receiver, but can't find it or anything like it anywhere.

ShelledPants January 6th, 2009 12:49

Bandoleer? Shotgun sling with shell holders built in?

I've also seen shell carriers which are MOLLE or also Velcro backed to attach to vests.

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=22203

I don't know how well made the Milspex one is... but it's available...
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...il?prodID=9117

Drake January 6th, 2009 12:54

You mean something like this?

http://cdn.overstock.com/images/products/L11397779.jpg


Look for "shotgun side saddle shell holder/carrier"

Roughneck January 6th, 2009 13:23

I have a real steel one for a Benelli M3 on my TM M3. It attatches to the real shotgun by removing a pin from the reciever and replacing it with the one that comes with the saddle. This does NOT work for the airsoft version, I used epoxy to mount mine.. holds 6 shells and is on there solid. Any hunting store should have them for about $25.


http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/M3CQBtop.jpg

Disco_Dante January 6th, 2009 13:45

At border wars I fielded an entire bandolier of shells. Very comfy actually.

Styrak January 6th, 2009 13:46

Drake: Yes exactly.

Roughneck: Alright, schweet. Trip to the local gunstore and JB Weld TO THE RESCUE!

I've read that airsoft shells are a little larger diameter than real 12ga shells so they're a tight fit. Any comments on that Roughneck

Roughneck January 6th, 2009 14:54

They're a tight fit, but they'll go in. Dremel is your friend to make sure they slide out smoothly when you need a quick reload. I trimmed a bit off the lips (where they come together around the shell) and I also removed some plastic in the actual shell holder to make sure they fit in there properly. Just don't take out too much or they'll be loose, obviously.

Side note, when you put the shells with the primer down (as in my picture above).. they're real quick to refill with bb's using a speed loader.

Dracheous January 6th, 2009 15:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roughneck (Post 892571)
Side note, when you put the shells with the primer down (as in my picture above).. they're real quick to refill with bb's using a speed loader.

I suggest with the primer up, this helps prevent dust, dirt and debris from getting into the shell itself. Dust gets everywhere, but if the opening is pointed down its more than likely not to sit into the shell. Also, if you do a tactical reload, you can then place the shell primer down so that you can see it still has rounds in the shell, but you may not be too sure about how many. This way you can always tell a full shell from an empty one, and have access to reload that shell. So basically when you look to your shells you see a primer its full, you see a bb its got some bite left who knows how much, but just one might be all it takes to save your skin. I do the same thing with magazines in pouches, so when I look for a mag I know which ones are full.

Styrak January 6th, 2009 15:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dracheous (Post 892599)
I suggest with the primer up, this helps prevent dust, dirt and debris from getting into the shell itself. Dust gets everywhere, but if the opening is pointed down its more than likely not to sit into the shell. Also, if you do a tactical reload, you can then place the shell primer down so that you can see it still has rounds in the shell, but you may not be too sure about how many. This way you can always tell a full shell from an empty one, and have access to reload that shell. So basically when you look to your shells you see a primer its full, you see a bb its got some bite left who knows how much, but just one might be all it takes to save your skin. I do the same thing with magazines in pouches, so when I look for a mag I know which ones are full.

Good idea. I do the same thing with my AUG mags. Upside down is full and right side up, where I can see it has no BB's in it, is empty.
Works good since I don't use a dump pouch.

Roughneck January 6th, 2009 15:55

True enough, to each his own. I have 20 shells that I fill at the start of the day.. keep 6 in the saddle, the rest in a molle pouch on my harness and I just drop the empty ones in my dump pouch as I go along. With that many shells, I can afford to reload half way though a shell and not worry too much about ammo. When dead, I usually pull a few empty shells out of my dump pouch and replace the used ones in the saddle, then load them (when permitted by game rules)

This shotgun has been my indoor primary for the last few months and I wouldnt trade it for any AEG for CQB. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do.

Crunchmeister January 6th, 2009 16:14

I do something similar with my mags. I carry 10 mags with me, but can only fit about 5 easily in my drop pouch. I carry loaded mags BB end down in my mag pouches, and when I put empties back after the drop pouch is full, I put them in BB side up.

Styrak January 6th, 2009 20:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roughneck (Post 892615)
This shotgun has been my indoor primary for the last few months and I wouldnt trade it for any AEG for CQB. Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do.

Well it seems like a decent gun, even if it is a Double Eagle. I'll see how it stands up when I use it in a game. Seems to shoot very well.

coach January 6th, 2009 21:19

I need to find a side saddle that will fit my M500. Anyone with ideas locally?

Roughneck January 6th, 2009 21:22

Check out Tacstar shotgun accessories. Thats the brand of mine from the M3 but they do make a model for the M500. They also make one for the 870/1100 Remington models as well.

Quickly found this: http://www.impactguns.com/store/tacstar.html

coach January 6th, 2009 21:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roughneck (Post 892816)
Check out Tacstar shotgun accessories. Thats the brand of mine from the M3 but they do make a model for the M500. They also make one for the 870/1100 Remington models as well.

Quickly found this: http://www.impactguns.com/store/tacstar.html

cool. we need one for the 870 as well. thanks
also want to find a store locally to ensure fitment.
we tried le barons but they didn't have the correct ones

baker_Jeff January 7th, 2009 01:02

I use this sling with my S34P...

http://capitalairsoft.ca/store/index...products_id=89

Styrak January 7th, 2009 15:49

I was looking at one of these at the local store, but it was for a Winchester or something. Looked very similar. Do you think it would matter?

I mean, on a real one you would need the right mounting points but if you're just going to velcro it or epoxy it on, does it matter what version you get?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roughneck (Post 892510)
I have a real steel one for a Benelli M3 on my TM M3. It attatches to the real shotgun by removing a pin from the reciever and replacing it with the one that comes with the saddle. This does NOT work for the airsoft version, I used epoxy to mount mine.. holds 6 shells and is on there solid. Any hunting store should have them for about $25.


http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/M3CQBtop.jpg


Roughneck January 7th, 2009 16:05

From pictures that I see, I'd assume that the recievers are all roughly the same size on each shotgun.. like you said.. the body pins would be the difference. After thinking about it, I think you'd be safe with the Remington one.

Styrak January 7th, 2009 21:54

Well I went to the outdoor store today and I ended up buying a TacStar side saddle.
First pic is what it looks like, probably not much different than your except for mount/pin points.

The only thing is, its not for a Benelli (Winchester) so it interferes where I circled in red with the pistol grip. This causes the rest of it to be titlted slight to the side and does not contact the receiver. I'll have to cut somewhere close to the yellow line so that I can epoxy/JB Weld it, which isn't a problem cause that part doesn't do anything for airsoft purposes.

Nice part is that it hooks into edge of the shell compartment and the curved edge on the top contacts the receiver without issue! I just hope (and I think it is) that the metal slab I have to cut is aluminum or something. Hacksaw to the rescue!

Oh, and the shells are WAY too tight, not just a little like you said? Any techniques for removing material inside the holders?

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...k/IMG_2687.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...k/IMG_2690.jpg

Roughneck January 7th, 2009 22:15

Ah.. I forgot that you're using the TM original pistol grip.. the saddle will over lap that one. I have the G&P stock on mine which comes with a new pistol grip.. it doesnt flair out like the TM one does. You can cut that off with a saw.. but you'll want to epoxy the saddle to that backing plate as it keeps everything flat.. without it, the saddle will bend and you'll have a hard time getting shells in and out.. even after modding it.

As for the shells being tight, you'll have to use a file or dremel to open up the holes a bit. As I stated before, you'll want to remove a bit of the lips to open the gap in the holes (guestamate about 2-3mm on each side of the gap, keep testing the shells as you go). If you look at my pic, you'll see how much material I've cut out.

Styrak January 7th, 2009 22:23

I'll want to epoxy the shell holder part to the metal slab? You sure? It seems pretty damn solid with the 6 screws.
And is cutting off the lips/fingers the only thing you did, or you do have to file inside as well?

Roughneck January 7th, 2009 22:30

If you're cutting the back end off of the plate and saddle so it doesnt overlap the flair on the pistol grip.. you'll be removing two of the screws.. this is the only reason I mention using epoxy there.

I filed inside the shell holders as well, use a fine grid sandpaper to smooth everything out when you're done.. or it'll tear the stickers off the shells.. which isnt something that I really worry about.. but you might.

PS.. sorry about being pretty foggy on all this.. it's been 6 or 7 months since I went thought it.


EDIT: You're losing only one screw hole.. never mind the epoxy part.. I just took a closer look at the picture.

Styrak January 7th, 2009 22:31

Oh no man, it's all good information.

And nooooooo, I'd just be cutting at the yellow line, all screws would be intact as you can see :p

Roughneck January 7th, 2009 22:39

Bottom line, the whole thing is trial and error.. just keep checking with a shell.

Styrak January 7th, 2009 22:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roughneck (Post 893587)
EDIT: You're losing only one screw hole.. never mind the epoxy part.. I just took a closer look at the picture.

Which is only used on the real steel, so I'm good :D


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