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Con Murder May 17th, 2009 19:59

SIG 552 Info
 
Hey I got a cybergun SIG 552 commando about 8 months ago and now would like to pull it apart and tinker abit. Anyone know if there is a tutorial? Video would help most, I'm a visual learner... And does anyone know its stock specs? Metal bushings? Hop up upgrades and TBB on my list anything else to improve its efficiency in the nozzle seel or something? I don't want a new spring or motor yet not until its needed. Also wondering if its a long or short piston and how much a few inches on the inner barell would effect its performance.
Thanks guys, any info would aid me biased or not.

Con Murder May 17th, 2009 20:00

Oh ya I forgot, can I replace the orange flash guard? Is it threaded at the end?

Huron May 17th, 2009 21:03

For the flash hider, it does come off, and the barrel is threaded 14mm CCW. That means you have to twist the flash hider clockwise to loosen it (facing the muzzle). It's a bitch to get it off of that model though, at least my brother's was.

shadow_matter May 18th, 2009 08:22

This is the link I used as a learning tool for disassembly. 552 upgrades are time consuming to say the least.

http://www.858airsoft.com/howtos/sig552disam.html

Rotting May 18th, 2009 23:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 989276)
Hey I got a cybergun SIG 552 commando about 8 months ago and now would like to pull it apart and tinker abit. Anyone know if there is a tutorial? Video would help most, I'm a visual learner... And does anyone know its stock specs? Metal bushings? Hop up upgrades and TBB on my list anything else to improve its efficiency in the nozzle seel or something? I don't want a new spring or motor yet not until its needed. Also wondering if its a long or short piston and how much a few inches on the inner barell would effect its performance.
Thanks guys, any info would aid me biased or not.

First, just to quote another guy, he said the orange tip was a bitch for his brother. Was for me too on my Cybergun 552. Got it off with some vice grips finally after trying with my teeth unsuccessfully. But yea, you can replace it with any 14mm CCW flash hider/silencer, or a 14mm CW given you have the adapter to do so.

The only tutorial I've come across is the one that was posted. Seems to be the only one out there. The first time you do it, you'll probably get frustrated, unless you're patient (I am not patient with minor details).

For stock specs, I had mine shooting roughly 350-360FPS out of the box. It drastically requires rehaul though. Everything is plastic. Nozzle, piston, piston head, bushings, shims, everything. If you're a first time mechbox worker, I suggest bringing it to a local smith and requesting to watch him do it. That's how I learned. I've heard that apparently the Cybergun mechbox is a 7mm reinforced mechbox, but I've also been told it's just a standard 6mm mechbox. I'd need someone else to nay or yay that one for me.

As for upgrades, the hop-up in it is probably better off in there. From personal experience, I purchased a G3 full-metal hop-up (There is no SiG series enhanced hop-up, but the G3 does confirmed fit inside with a little bit of modification, minus the extra screw that holds the plate in the magwell) and I've had nothing but problems since. Once I finally get off my ass and unsolder the motor again, I'm putting the stock hop-up in there. The bucking sleeve I'd suggest replacing, just simply because personally mine was thin like tissue paper, and I didn't really trust it, heh.

As for barrel upgrades, I'm personally upgrading to a 455mm barrel because to me, the Sig 552 was at a loss for accuracy due to the 247/248mm barrel. I've heard other people saying that a barrel upgrade in a SiG 552 made a world of difference. Just make sure if you increase your barrel length, that you get the porperly ported cylinder.

Depending how large your budget is, invest in a HurricanE metal body, or invest in a new plastic reciever set. The rear of the stock plastic lower reciever seemed to have a tendency to crack right behind where the screw is holding the stock in place. My body cracked, as well as a friend's. If you can find someone parting out a JG or TM SiG 552, jump on it. Also I'd be cautious of how much stress you put on the pistol grip. I've seen people throw their gun (M4, AUG, AK) to the ground like it's made of rubber and it'll bounce and the grip is solid like a rock. When mine hit the ground, and the ground was covered in snow, it cracked like an egg, albeit my body weight also was on it. They're hard to come across, since most international and national retailers don't carry them.

Also, the sling it comes with is trash. For the love of God, don't use it. I nearly lost my gun in a river because the damned sling snapped.

Out of box performance? I'd say it's a good starter gun, with a lot of potential upgrade ability. A lot of people often overlook the SiG 552 because it's not a mainstream weapon, and at times can be more expensive than upgrading say an M4 or AK. I wouldn't get discouraged, though. It's a very aethstically pleasing gun, especially if you manage to get the 43rd magazines, and can compete with more popular model weapons given the time and effort put forth to compete.

Buzzrexx May 19th, 2009 01:00

If you do anything, shim the gears!

The 552 can also be a bitch to take apart (rather to put back together) as the selector gears on the lower receiver need to be in the precise position. with the plastic receiver, it is possible to fold the sides out of the way to pull the trigger/handgrip/mechbox assembly out. Just be careful.

Mine performed okay out of the box, except that the hopup was shit. I fixed that by changing just the rubber and bucking.

I gamed it in cold weather and blew up the piston, so then I completely re did the whole mechbox, and barrel.

I made my barrel extend just up to the end of the flash hider; you could also put on a supressor and go way longer. But just like Roko said, make sure you get a matching ported cylinder when changing the length of the barrel.

put in a Prometheus M100 spring, also a new air nozzle. Shoots consistent 350 and bang on target every time, too.

Con Murder May 19th, 2009 15:58

Thanks dudes. Really was wondering about the 6mm or 7mm mechbox. Now that I know it needs complete overhaul I think its Priority number one. But how much better is the Jing Gong? I can find one... Is it worth grabbing that instead of upgrading?

By the way, I love the SIG and will not put it down even though I got a JG M4S! haha!

Con Murder May 19th, 2009 16:03

Oh ya I worked on my M4 gearbox fine. I also work on guitars, amps and effects pedals so I am not afraid or impatient. The m4 had the but plate to tight (most likely from shipping it, DAMN CANADA POST!) but I took the whole thing apart in search of stripped teath anywhere! haha
Looking forward to making all my M4 friends fear the Swiss!

Roko, thanks for taking a half hour to write up some help for me... What are the 43rd magazines? I know the mags link up but 43 linked... together? Explain a little.

Buzzrexx May 19th, 2009 21:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 990556)
Roko, thanks for taking a half hour to write up some help for me... What are the 43rd magazines? I know the mags link up but 43 linked... together? Explain a little.

The 43 round magazines are the real-caps for this gun. They are translucent, and have fake bullets in them, like a P90 or G36 mag. So they are needless to say, hard to get in Canada, but look totally cool.

Rotting May 20th, 2009 02:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 990556)
Oh ya I worked on my M4 gearbox fine. I also work on guitars, amps and effects pedals so I am not afraid or impatient. The m4 had the but plate to tight (most likely from shipping it, DAMN CANADA POST!) but I took the whole thing apart in search of stripped teath anywhere! haha
Looking forward to making all my M4 friends fear the Swiss!

Roko, thanks for taking a half hour to write up some help for me... What are the 43rd magazines? I know the mags link up but 43 linked... together? Explain a little.

These are the 43rd magazines.
http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper...rch_43%20round

They definitely make the 100rd look like crap (the 100rd mags do not have fake rounds in them), but the problem lies that this is a restricted item, so in other words don't try to import it them yourself, it will most likely be seized at customs. If you want to order a couple 43rd SiG Series magazines, I believe you can custom-order them from http:\\www.airsoftparts.ca easily.

Saying these are hard to find is a vast understatement. The G36 and P90 are a dime a dozen, and while we're on the topic of guns with mags that have fake rounds in them, the AUG as well. The SiG on the other hand (550/551/552) isn't as popular, and as a result, less people have the mags for it, even the 100rd magazines. But, rest assured, if you do manage to purchase some 43rd magazines, they are head turners. The SiG series 43rd mags are very clear, and you can see the fake rounds very well, where-as the G36, P90, and AUG all seem to have quite a bit of tint to them. However if you plan to paint your gun to match a certain camo, I'd say just ge tthe 100rd mags. They're cheaper by the pack, and you can also paint them to make your gun. I wouldn't recommend the 43rd mags with a camo-painted gun. It just didn't look right to me. Also, they're a pretty penny. Last time I got a quote from AirsoftParts, it was going to cost me roughly $240.00 for 4 43rd mags. I guess it depends how much you want them.

Also to answer your question, the Cybergun SiG 552 is a rebrand of a JG SiG 552. The JG is of higher quality, but most of the really expensive upgrades, or just the more expensive upgrades, are still going to be required regardless of model. Personally, since you already have the Cybergun SiG 552, I'd just stick with that and upgrade it. If you end up fully upgrading it, it won't matter which company made it.

Buzzrexx May 20th, 2009 09:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roko (Post 991059)
Also yo answer your question, the Cybergun SiG 552 is a rebrand of a JG SiG 552. The JG is of higher quality, but most of the really expensive upgrades, or just the more expensive upgrades, are still going to be required regardless of model. Personally, since you already have the Cybergun SiG 552, I'd just stick with that and upgrade it. If you end up fully upgrading it, it won't matter which company made it.

+1

...And if you do the right upgrades, you can stick a Lipo battery in it like i did, for beautiful response and ROF

Con Murder May 20th, 2009 12:32

Thanks buzz, I was really wondering how I would get my SIG to pull a strong spring. That battery compartment just has no room, or at least I can't figure out how a 9.6v would ever fit! I was considering making a custom battery that I would kind of wrap around and stuff... But I knew that was a bad idea.

At any rate I know I need a good charger made for them, is that all I need for Li-po? Oh a list of internals required as well for that upgrade.
Do you guys know the piston and cylinder needed, as I plan to extend my barrel (6.03) to M4 size under a silencer.
Last question, when I do the TBB should I do the piston, nozzle cylinder and hop up rubber all at once or can the piston and cylinder wait?

Styrak May 20th, 2009 13:23

Piston doesn't need to change (they're not gun-specific). Don't know if you'll need to change the cylinder. What's your barrel length right now?

Rotting May 20th, 2009 13:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 991241)
Thanks buzz, I was really wondering how I would get my SIG to pull a strong spring. That battery compartment just has no room, or at least I can't figure out how a 9.6v would ever fit! I was considering making a custom battery that I would kind of wrap around and stuff... But I knew that was a bad idea.

At any rate I know I need a good charger made for them, is that all I need for Li-po? Oh a list of internals required as well for that upgrade.
Do you guys know the piston and cylinder needed, as I plan to extend my barrel (6.03) to M4 size under a silencer.
Last question, when I do the TBB should I do the piston, nozzle cylinder and hop up rubber all at once or can the piston and cylinder wait?

If I remember right, a M4 barrel is 363mm. When you do that upgrade, you also should upgrade the cylinder. The SiG's default barrel is only 247mm/248mm long, and uses a Type-2 ported cylinder. With a 363mm, you should match the cylinder with a Type-1 ported cylinder.

EDIT: Also, larger batteries in a SiG 552 can be accommodated for by one of two ways. The first is taking out the battery holder inside the hand guards (There are 5 screws that hold it in place, and they are easily accessed). This does expose the inner barrel a bit, but not to the point where the battery would damage it. Commonly this is done to make way for a 9.6v battery pack. The other option is an external battery pack. A lot of people use an external battery pack in the shape of a PEQ III (or was it II?), and this way they can hold a 11v li-po battery in there. Personally, when I upgrade to a larger battery, I will end up going for the PEQ battery pack. With no battery in the handguards, I now have more than enough room for a MOSFET setup. Since the SiG552 is a fairly packed gun, it would be a bit difficult to fit a MOSFET in any other place.

Buzzrexx May 20th, 2009 22:42

here's my setup on my Sig 552:

-DeepFire titanium tooth piston (I put in good quality metal piston, piston head, and cylinder head with the sorbo pad in order to handle the speed and shock of the Lipo battery. Otherwise it will wear out very quiclky.)
-Modify aluminum piston head
-Modify aluminum cylinder head
-Sorbo Pad
-Prometheus M100 spring
-Modify air seal nozzle
-Shim kit (VERY IMPORTANT!!)
-Modify double-groove stainless bushings
-Mechbox lubed up good with Super Lube
-new Hop up rubber & bucking
-Madbull tightbore barrel
-11.1V Lipo battery (fits beautifully in the battery compartment; you will need a Lipo specific charger for the battery; Huang has them for a decent price.)
-custom made metal upper rail

http://8kffpg.blu.livefilestore.com/...0552%20-02.JPG
(please excuse the colouring- came through kind of funny on the photo)

Also note- when putting the gun back together, don't overlook the need to properly adjust the motor depth. If the mechbox is properly shimmed, it will sound smooth, but you will need the motor gear to properly mesh for this. First make sure the gun fires and the motor is not grinding at all. Then slowly move in or our with the adjusting screw, and fire shots in semi. You are looking for the spot where you don't hear any gear turning sounds, only a SNAP. Or the closest thing to it.

Gunny_McSmith May 21st, 2009 13:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzzrexx (Post 991624)

Also note- when putting the gun back together, don't overlook the need to properly adjust the motor depth. If the mechbox is properly shimmed, it will sound smooth, but you will need the motor gear to properly mesh for this. First make sure the gun fires and the motor is not grinding at all. Then slowly move in or our with the adjusting screw, and fire shots in semi. You are looking for the spot where you don't hear any gear turning sounds, only a SNAP. Or the closest thing to it.

should it do that sound on any well shimmed gearbox, when you ajust the motor? (for exemple on a version 2 mechbox....)

cuz I'm not really sure how it should sound a well ajusted motor on my hk416...

Styrak May 21st, 2009 13:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palucol (Post 991936)
should it do that sound on any well shimmed gearbox, when you ajust the motor? (for exemple on a version 2 mechbox....)

cuz I'm not really sure how it should sound a well ajusted motor on my hk416...

As quiet as possible (definitely no grinding sounds!), that's the perfect spot.

Rotting May 21st, 2009 13:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzzrexx (Post 991624)
Also note- when putting the gun back together, don't overlook the need to properly adjust the motor depth. If the mechbox is properly shimmed, it will sound smooth, but you will need the motor gear to properly mesh for this. First make sure the gun fires and the motor is not grinding at all. Then slowly move in or our with the adjusting screw, and fire shots in semi. You are looking for the spot where you don't hear any gear turning sounds, only a SNAP. Or the closest thing to it.

Personally I'd be careful with this. My Cybergun 552's motor depth adjustment actually doesn't work. Not sure why, it just doesn't work. I don't know if this is a general flaw with all the Cybergun 552's, or if it's just mine that decided to be a hunk of crap. The screw turns and turns and turns, but no adjustment is made. I'm considering just superglueing the damn thing to the little square and fixing it that way.

Con Murder May 21st, 2009 17:42

Oh man well now I have my options ahead of me. A full rebuild for my guns intestines huh? This is starting to sound like a real hobby (the kind that gets you in debt, late for work, dumped or divorced):)

Buzzrexx May 22nd, 2009 01:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 992063)
Oh man well now I have my options ahead of me. A full rebuild for my guns intestines huh? This is starting to sound like a real hobby (the kind that gets you in debt, late for work, dumped or divorced):)

Don't feel like you have to do all that I did; it was just to suit the gun to my personal needs, as well as I'd rather take it all apart once and do the job right the first time. And try to avoid those nasty things, though debt IS manageable. This is a hobby, not an addiction...or is it?

Con Murder May 22nd, 2009 14:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzzrexx (Post 992432)
This is a hobby, not an addiction...or is it?

Ya... That question surfaces from time to time. I have financed guns for most my squad... At any rate I plan to get the hop-up, tbb, nozzle, piston and cylinder done by July. Then get the spring gears and motor to my desired point.

How Tight a barrel for say M4 size (I'm covering it with a silencer) and is madbull goona be alright or should I hold out for something else? I was thinking 6.03 or 6.04 so will I want one over the other?

Rotting May 22nd, 2009 14:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 992645)
Ya... That question surfaces from time to time. I have financed guns for most my squad... At any rate I plan to get the hop-up, tbb, nozzle, piston and cylinder done by July. Then get the spring gears and motor to my desired point.

How Tight a barrel for say M4 size (I'm covering it with a silencer) and is madbull goona be alright or should I hold out for something else? I was thinking 6.03 or 6.04 so will I want one over the other?

I used to use a 247mm 6.03 Tightbore Madbull, and I've ordered a 455mm (M4 length, I believe) 6.03 Tightbore Madbull. I'll post my personal liking of it on Tuesday/Wednesday when I recieve the parts. I assume it'll work out just fine. I love my 247mm tightbore, and even after the accuracy upgrade, I'm still keeping that barrel for a CQB parts loadout.

Con Murder May 22nd, 2009 15:19

Ya another thread has helped me decide on 6.03 as well, do you use regular bbs or specialized 'precise' bbs? As well 0.20g or 0.25g?
I tried both but only noticed a difference in range, and groupings at a distance. I like 0.25g groupings but I like range as well.

Buzzrexx May 22nd, 2009 21:31

I use only .28 BBBastard or Madbull BB's for indoor and outdoor; I have MadBull 6.03mm tightbores in both of my AEG's. I find it a good balance that keeps accuracy for long distances while still travelling far. I suppose a .20 BB would go farther, but what good is it if you can't control where it goes?

Con Murder May 23rd, 2009 02:56

Thanks alot dudes goona order this stuff monday so... any idea if the box on the SIG is 6mm or 7mm?

Buzzrexx May 23rd, 2009 09:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 993005)
Thanks alot dudes goona order this stuff monday so... any idea if the box on the SIG is 6mm or 7mm?

6mm

Con Murder May 23rd, 2009 11:19

Thanks Buzzrexx time to spend money!
ordered from airsoftparts.ca
G&P Zombie Killer Silencer
MA 6.03mm Stainless Tightbore 363mm
Mad Bull 60 Degree Normal Bucking Hop-Up Rubber Set
Modify Cylinder Set - M4A1/M4RIS/S-System/SR-16

Con Murder June 13th, 2009 22:55

Sorry to take so long putting in my upgrades.
Got my tbb in and tried it with the new madbull hop up and it shit a brick, just spits them like 20 feet. The stupid hop up is like less than a mm thicker yet it moves the diameter what seems like a cm! ARG! But ya put the old black one on and it shoots beautifully, the stock black one is an h-nub and I heard good things so I'll game it until it fails. The Zombie Killer silencer is dope! and gives it a distinct sound, no suppression though. Have yet to open the mech box but I'll post afterwards, anyway I have no gear greese or cylinder greese so I guess this noob needs schooling!

Rotting June 14th, 2009 01:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 1006927)
Sorry to take so long putting in my upgrades.
Got my tbb in and tried it with the new madbull hop up and it shit a brick, just spits them like 20 feet. The stupid hop up is like less than a mm thicker yet it moves the diameter what seems like a cm! ARG! But ya put the old black one on and it shoots beautifully, the stock black one is an h-nub and I heard good things so I'll game it until it fails. The Zombie Killer silencer is dope! and gives it a distinct sound, no suppression though. Have yet to open the mech box but I'll post afterwards, anyway I have no gear greese or cylinder greese so I guess this noob needs schooling!

Personally I used the blue Mad Bull bucking sleeves you're talking about. In a SiG's hop-up, they don't fit. They're too thick. Even dabbing some oil on them doesn't effectively get them in, and the only time I got one in, it gave me problems. I'd highly suggest just sticking with the black one for now. I'm not entirely with it when it comes to buckings, but for the most part a lot of people recommend the Gaurder Clear bucking sets. Apparently they work like magic, but it also says below 400fps, so until you upgrade to at least 350fps with 0.20g BBs, I'd hold off on the clear bucking, as from what I've heard with Amos, if you have a mismatched bucking in accordance with your FPS, you get some messy accuracy.

Con Murder June 14th, 2009 12:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roko (Post 1006976)
Personally I used the blue Mad Bull bucking sleeves you're talking about. In a SiG's hop-up, they don't fit. They're too thick. Even dabbing some oil on them doesn't effectively get them in, and the only time I got one in, it gave me problems. I'd highly suggest just sticking with the black one for now.

Thanks Roko, I tore one of the blues then greased the second to slide in. Although I couldn't get the C-clip to go on I still assembled the unit and had the shittiest range (20ft if lucky) so I cleaned my hop with Isopropynol and tried again. I work and gig part time so it was like tore the first one, wait a few days. Put in second, wait a few days. Find out it sucks, wait, replace, wait, find out its a success then post! Ha ha!

Anyway Roko I read your thread and was wondering if you used anything in the silencer to steady the barrell or if it just floats. My 363 mm is floating and I think I want it more stable, any suggestions? Oh ya I will be painting and posting pics once grease gets to me... Maybe wait a few days between...

Con Murder June 17th, 2009 14:49

I put it all in and the range has increased alittle but my fps is noticably lower, has to be cronod again. The stock spring was attached to the metal piece of the piston/head so I had to cut the nub off. I really dont think that made this drop, but because the cut portion was a bit sharp I turned it around. Is it the backwards spring? Also I am still using the stock spring guide. I did all the lubing with white lithium, could this be a problem as it is a bit viscouse?

I am planning to get silocne, a m100 spring, a SIG 552 nozzle and a spring guide to rid me of this problem. Or is a simple solution available to me here?

Got the painting done and it looks nice, thinking of doing the mags... but they are highcaps and I like to know how full they are. Could tape off a stripe perhaps.

Rotting June 17th, 2009 15:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Con Murder (Post 1008846)
I put it all in and the range has increased alittle but my fps is noticably lower, has to be cronod again. The stock spring was attached to the metal piece of the piston/head so I had to cut the nub off. I really dont think that made this drop, but because the cut portion was a bit sharp I turned it around. Is it the backwards spring? Also I am still using the stock spring guide. I did all the lubing with white lithium, could this be a problem as it is a bit viscouse?

I am planning to get silocne, a m100 spring, a SIG 552 nozzle and a spring guide to rid me of this problem. Or is a simple solution available to me here?

Got the painting done and it looks nice, thinking of doing the mags... but they are highcaps and I like to know how full they are. Could tape off a stripe perhaps.

Should replace those parts (nozzle and spring guide) anyway if you have the disposable incoming available for it. The stock ones are a piece of junk, I could literally chew through them like jello. As far as the dilemma you're in, I have no experience with mechbox rebuilds yet. Hopefully someone else will be of some assistance, heh. I'd also say go for midcaps. If you're like the bulk of players, they hate hearing BBs rattling around in the cargo compartment of a highcap, heh.

Con Murder June 17th, 2009 16:33

Well I emailed airsoftparts.ca and it turns out that thecylinder head is v2 (an m4 kit remember) and the nozzle is missmatched. Goona grab those the spring guide and a spring. What can the stock motor pull? ROF is not a big deal at this point so I would like 380fps but could settle for less. Oh and 8.4v is what I'm using, any sujestions for a 9.6v? Like nunchuck or any specific configuration? The G&P twin battery looks like it might fir (airsoftparts.ca) but I dont know, any sugestions?

Buzzrexx June 17th, 2009 16:38

Super Lube is a better grease to use; search the forums- there's a thread on where to find it.

Right on with the m100 spring and nozzle. Just make sure the mechbox is properly shimmed (take your time) ESPECIALLY before using a lipo. (BTW the stock piston will probably shatter with a lipo, so just wait to use a lipo until you've upgraded the piston and cylinder head.

Con Murder June 18th, 2009 02:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzzrexx (Post 1008918)
Super Lube is a better grease to use; search the forums- there's a thread on where to find it.

...just wait to use a lipo until you've upgraded the piston and cylinder head.

Ya I know, I went to home hardware and knew only the white lithium was safe... But still I read heptane or petrolium distilliates on everything. Speaking of Super Lube, it has heptane (if I saw it at home hardware like I think I did) and thats a petrolium derivative thus I left without. I'll read the thread again to see whats what.

Anyway Buzz I got that M4 cylinder set by modify and believe it will suffice, what spring is the max the motor can pull? I wouldn't mind a m110 but the m100 is the fps most my friends would like us to play at. But I like the way a high power and heavy bb combine.
I need a charger for lipo so I am thinking about just a 9.6v battery. This is uncomfortable cause I don't know what will fit for sure, where a lipo would be no problem. Thing is even though I plan to get the mosfet I really can't afford to upgrade all at once you know wallet deflates. What would be smart? I need a secondary battery for obviouse reasons and one that will be able to pull the spring I get. Will my 8.4v pull the m100?

Con Murder August 6th, 2009 13:18

Got the gun fully painted and rocking, chose two mid-caps to aid me as the 43rds are expensive. Now that its slamming over 350 fps my friends have more to fear! The biggest increases to performance were when I put in the nozzle, tbb and ballbearing piston head. For some reason they did all the real improvements and the spring being upgraded only increased the speed of my shot, accuracy and range were done by the previously mentioned parts. Will post pics when my sisiter can take them.

iggim109 August 7th, 2009 01:46

hay I'm have queastion about the sig 552.
is it possible to put m4 Collapsible Stock by any chance???
I mean if U take a look at kings arm sig 556 they already has m4 Collapsible Stock, and so far I found 2 converter for m4 Collapsible Stock.
So is it possible???

Con Murder August 7th, 2009 02:16

It seems the 556 is a bit more like an armalight in desighn. For the 552 you would have to have a product that clearly said it converted the collapsable stock into the m4 varient. With out it clearly identifiing that as its purpose the answere is no they are not compatable.


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