Any Tech-experienced Marui P226 Owners?
 

Hey,

Just wondering if anyone can describe how the double-action trigger on the TM P226 works, or even show pictures of the parts affected. I have that new Skeleton Sidearms P226 and it only fires in single action, which I could see being a small problem in a situation such as: primary jams up while under fire, pull out GBB and -whoops hammer's not back trigger doesn't do anything now-. I want to compare a functioning DA trigger assembly to my current one to see if it can be modified to work.

Thanks,
Gabe

Didn't know that about the SS P226. That's kinda stupid/sucks.

I've worked on the P226/P229 but sorry I don't have any advice on the SA/DA components.

ive taken a KJW 226 down to the nuts and bolts, and i know what parts are for the DA function, but its kinda hard for me to describe the parts... are you coming to TAC this week or any games in the GTA at some point? maybe I could show you

I can try to get out to something this year but I don't have proper gear to game, so I guess I'd be there as an observer. Also I'm not sure if any of the fields around Toronto are okay with having a 16/17 year old around. If I can I'll let you know, thanks.

they usually dont mind if 17 year olds are around, just most won't let you play, watch all you like
Im actually picking up somebody elses TM 226 to swap frames on it at TAC this friday, so that would be a good day :)

I think I'm actually picking up parts for the P226 tomorrow, lol. Maybe sometime in the future I can come check it out though.

Rack the slide, then decock the hammer using the decocking lever thingy (not sure of what it's actually called). Does it fire now? If so, well, you're firing in double action, from my knowledge of SA/DA.

Someone can jump in and correct me if I'm wrong of course - I don't actually have experience with any P226's as of yet.

Yep I tried that because I figured it might work since it would need a round chambered anyways, at least on RS, but the hammer doesn't move back nor is the trigger pull DA heavy.

Check the Blow Back Valve Blocker, if they copies the TM's to a T and are using cheaper plastics, this use to be a problem on some of the earlier P226 versions when they first came out. You will need to take your slide off, pop out the barrel and hopup unit, then the nozzle inside the nozzle theres a little itsy bitsy screw which holds the valve blocker in becareful when removing it as it is holding in you valve and a small spring so dont loose it. Check for hairline cracks in the blocker. It cause all sorts of issues on mine when I first got it, till I swapped it out for a Guarder enhanced one. Larges issue was not recocking and wasting gas.

Here a break down repair manual of the TM's so you can identify parts:
http://tech.airsoftcanada.com/TM/TM%20-%20P226/

The valve blocker is on page 1 - P226-17

Ill try to describe as best I can
Remove slide
Remove right side grip
now, inside you will see the trigger bar with a spring pushing up on it, a piece of pot metal with a little semicircle in it in the upper portion of the opening, thats the sear, and under and behind that is the hammer, now on the bottom of the hammer there should be a small lip that the trigger bar pulls on to fire in DA, its hard to see without knowing what you're looking for, theres also a prong on the trigger bar that goes to meet that lip, so either of those parts could be broken/omitted/worn off
ill see if I can take a pic of it

in this pic i have the trigger pulled and the hammer partially cocked so the parts are visible,

Thanks both of you, I'll have a look at it ASAP and report back, probably tomorrow. I actually saved all 4 of those exploded parts diagrams from ASC at about 4 o'clock today Bloodsport, lol. Pretty awesome to see that this site still hosts all those diagrams even though half of them were uploaded almost 6 years ago.

Double posting to update: turns out the screws on the grip panels don't actually do anything. Either the female threads in the frame were made of separate pieces and came loose, or were never functioning in the first place. I'll look for a way to get them off, but a 100% Marui compatible claim should mean a full clone... Not pleased.

Odd's are that is still a Mauri clone, the first time I took my grips off my TM the "thread" holes were a seperate piece and come loose thus not releasing the screw. I put some locktight around them and no issue after that. Then again I've also since replaced the whole frame with metal.

If it's not SA/DA it's not a 100% clone, which sucks.