Airsoft Motor Dyno
 

Hello,

I am new to ASC, I am an established member of the MAA - Minnesota Airsoft Association.

I have noticed your site has for more technical info then many other boards. And thus I would like to contribute.

Here is what I have:

Eagle Force MD01 Dyno

This device measures:

RPM, Amp Draw and CONS - Motor Efficiency (lower is better), this is an arbitrary number and is only for ballpark references. Other arbitrary factors is motor noise and heat after run.

I pinned the voltage at 9V, motors spin up to a 9V draw in various times and then I let it run for a 20 seconds straight.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/...1a1d848fbf.jpg

Motor 1 - Sacrificial Lamb

ICS Infinite - Long Type

RPM - 25400
Amp Draw - 2.12 Amps
CONS - 17
Noise - High, screetchy whiney motor
Heat - Very warm to the touch.

TM EG-3000HC (High Cycle)

RPM - 32800
Amp Draw - 2.92 Amps
CONS - 3.5
Noise - Low, it hummed with a slight pitch that reminded me of a dentist drill.
Heat - barely warm to the touch.

Result the Current King for Speed!

And now the motor you are waiting for....

G&P M170 Devil Jet

RPM - 0
Amp Draw - 18.7 AMPS
CONS - 0.0
Noise - None
Heat - None, slight vibration at 1.4V @ 17amps like the motor was trying to spin up.

Results - DOA like a cheap ACM motor. Note: It was very hard to turn even by hand. Magnet was really powerful, like Angelina Jolie to Brad Pitt on the set of Mr. and Mrs. Smith. When 4" away it latched onto the EG3000 like...well AJ on BP....

I will be contacting my distributor about the bad G&P M170.

Eagle Force EF1300 - Long Type

RPM - 27500
Amp Draw - 1.55 AMPS
CONS - 7.5
Noise - Mild, a louder harsher dentist drill type noise.
Heat - Mild, warm to the touch
Result - A great motor, very efficient due to it being hand assembled, but is it worth the price around $85.00. Good motor to reference the TM EG3000HC.

Ares/Shooter, Super Torque - Long Type

RPM - 26100
Amp Draw - 3.61 AMPS
CONS - 25
Noise - Mild, but of a different pitch, more of a thump type of pitch.
Heat - Mild, warm to the touch
Result - Definitely a super torque class motor. Magnet was very strong, hard to turn by hand, could be a cousin to the G&P M170...but this one works out of the box and at a lower cost over the G&P by ~$10.00 USD

I will be modding my G3 grip to allow my to Dyno a working motor in a AEG system. Then I can do instant spring swaps by pulling out the spring guide and run tests with different springs.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/...f873ff0b3b.jpg

And then I will put a chrono with an RPS counter on the front.

Anyone want me to test a certain type of motor?

JG "Black, no label" - Long Type

RPM - 25700
Amp Draw - 2.72 AMPS
CONS - 9
Noise - Medium, a bit schreeky
Heat - Mild, not warm at all
Result - A fairly efficient motor, that is not as high pitched as other motors.

Chaoli "Mirco" Motor - Long Type

RPM - 21300
Amp Draw - 2.27 AMPS
CONS - 2
Noise - Medium, a not annoying at all
Heat - Mild, not warm at all
Result - Another surprising motor, being fairly low RPM it is quiet.

Classic Army Blue Label High Torque/Performance - Long Motor

RPM - 29300
Amp Draw - 3.39 AMPS
CONS - 23
Noise - Loud, high pitch, whiney motor
Heat - Medium, was arming up quickly.
Result - A high strung stock motor that is poorly refined.

Classic Army Red Label High Torque/Performance - Long Motor

RPM - 29400
Amp Draw - 4.75 AMPS
CONS - 6.5
Noise - Medium, high pitched
Heat - Mild, warming up, but not as bad as the blue label motor.
Result - The refined sibling to the CA Blue Motor.

Test with replacement motor!G&P M170 Devil Jet

RPM - 34000
Amp Draw - 4.7 AMPS
CONS - 50.0 (Holy Moly!)
Noise - Medium High, shrieky high pitch
Heat - Moderate, was getting warm to the touch quickly.

Results - When I first powered up the motor nothing happened, as the voltage ticked up and the amps increased I thought I had another DOA motor. Then the motor kicked in and started spinning up. It was shrieky like the ICS motor, slight high frequency vibration when topped out at 9.0V. A motor at the edge and holding together, no refinement, how long it will last...that is to be seen.

One of the things you don't have (and can't measure I guess) is torque. That may be more important for some people than RPM.

Systema Magnum.... G&G Strong motor

Hey, that is great information.

I would like to see info on the cheap Chinese clone motors (what you find in Dboys, JG, Cyma, etc.).

Also the VFC EG1300. Seems like a good motor to me but I would like to see hard numbers.

Correct, I cannot measure torque directly...but I can measure it under a simulated load. When I gather and finish modding all my parts, I will be putting those numbers up.

Updated with 4 more motors. My RL dyno is nearly completed.

Any update on the G&P Devil Jet M170? Is it replaced? Any chance to compare it to the Planet AE1000?

I currently run RiotSC's DSG with a Systema Magnum and getting approx 40ROF. I'm looking at upping it and deciding if I should go for a the G&P Devil Jet or Planet AE1000. Goal is for 50-60ROF @ 1J with 0.2g BB's.

Just got the replacement G&P motor two days ago...but I was waiting for my Dyno parts. Seems the gun owner hasn't made up his mind to sell me his SAS yet. I can run it quick on the old format and give you numbers.

And I think I will right now.

Updated!

Thanks for the test Guges.

I must say that the RPM's somewhat low for the G&P M170 Devil Jet. I've read elsewhere that Systema Magnums are 43,000 whilst Planet AE1000+ are around 48,000.

Very nice! Very informative as well! Hope to see you do more tests!

Thanks for sharing! I would like to see results for the G&P M120/M140 and TM EG700/EG1000 motors if you could.

Magnums are typically around 6-8amps out of the box current draw
G&P M140/M120 around 3-4A after they get tuned

Definitely some good info man, especially for those of us running SW-COMPs!!

You really need more complete info to make any meaningful comparisons.

Like electrical power (voltage x current), shaft power is the product of two variables: revolution rate x torque.

With a good dyno setup which output torque, rpm you can calculate shaft power and compare it to electrical input voltage x current to determine electromechanical conversion efficiency. If you measured a free running RPM at given voltage (zero torque output) outside the gun to see if you were running your motor at highest power output by measuring the ROF of your gun. Work out the motor RPM by multiplying the ROF by the gear ratios up to the motor. For maximum power output in a DC motor, you'd be running at half the free running RPM of the motor. There's something there at least.

Such as the incredibly extensive testing they do on airsoftmechanics forum :)