Generally speaking, what will break first inside an AEG?
 

From reading some post here and from my experience of a "semi-engineer", I believe every machines, include AEGs, will break, it is just a matter of time.

I am curious about which interanl part(s) are easier or faster to break, in a decent quality stock AEG, for example, a King Arms M4 (or things of similar quality). Assuming the maintance is reasonable, the BBs are good quality ones, the battery is 8.4V Ni-MH, and the gaming style is reasonable (by reasonable I mean not holding the trigger too much more than necessary).


I am talking about internal parts, falling and breaking receiver/stock/external barrel don't count. :x:

piston
tappet plate
gears
anti-reverse latch
motor
front of gearbox shell (section holding the cylinder head)

more or less in that order.

This.

Thanks!
Is the order going to be similar on a lower-quality AEG (CYMA, JG, etc)?

Based on my experience, Cyma mechbox's are quite tough, It's the hop-up and cheap feeling furniture (stocks, grips,etc) that are garbage.

If its a V2 box and you use it in winter with a pretty stiff spring, there's a good chance the front of the shell will go first. Or even if you're using a really stiff spring, any season. That's why they sell reinforced ones.

Not a breakage per se but sometimes the trigger switch contacts get oil/grease on them and/or a high power battery is used that causes a lot of arcing. Eventually the contacts get gunked up and stop being conductive and need to be cleaned (sanded).

generally piston rack is the first to go.. but it depends on the materials of the components...

a cylinderhead is unlikely to break unless it's plastic and you have a metal piston head.. or vice versa... Then when you have both metal, it could lead to a V2 gearbox shell cracking at the front.

If the piston has a steel tooth rack, then it's likely that the gears or bearings that hold the gears break. But there have been cases of the entire steel tooth insert slipping out of it's position and causing all sorts of mayhem. That's why some guys super glue or epoxy it into place.

If you have an aluminum piston, it's a good chance that the rack doesn't break, but the pickup tooth and the entire back end of the piston tears off.

gear breaking can be teeth coming off, axles bending or shearing completely off.
Bearings can bend and not spin freely or spin off axis. That's why some people use bushings.

The front of the gearbox shell coming off is normally a v2 issue, v3, v6 and v7 aren't as common... if at all. But the potential is still there because of the cylinder window.

the front of my TM V3 gearbox broke clean off after 2 years of use with a 400 fps spring.
my friend's PTS ACR gearbox (V2/V3 hybrid) broke within a year on a 350 fps spring... (light usage, wasn't even gamed. most shooting was done for testing only)

In my experience the first thing that broke was my patience.

GBBR FTW!!!

second was my bank account!

that's already broken. broken for a loooong time.

(TㅅT)