JG G36C wiring issues
 

I've had this JG G36C for about a week now after buying it from Toronto Airsoft and having them replace the spring so that I can play CQB games; 350 fps on a modify m90 spring.

One thing I noticed is that the gearbox sounds different when I'm connecting it directly to the gearbox versus the extra wiring that goes to the hand guard with a fuse in it (came stock).

http://youtu.be/x4Z1jspjTsA

Connected directly to the gearbox, it sounds high pitched, fast, and crisp.

Connected to the fuse wiring, it sounds lower pitched, slower, and i don't know... bad.

Another thing I'm concerned about is that the fuse is actually starting to burn out (refer to attached pic).

Any suggestions?

It sounds like the gearbox isnt shimmed correctly. Sounds like a lot of motor wine from your gun. That may cause more resistance perhaps which would show on the fuse. Just a theory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAZzCID-MWI

I did originally try to replace the spring myself and shim the thing, but when I couldn't close it back I just gave up and took it to TA for them to do it for me.

Another thing is that I don't want to take it apart again because part of the lower receiver is cracked where the pin holds the gearbox in with the lower, and I'm afraid it's going to snap completely if i try to take it apart again. The pin was in there TIGHT, though, so I can't blame it for breaking.

So I should use the bevel-pinion method?

shimming is off. Why you don't hear it when you have it directly plugged in is because the fuse and extra connector add resistance to the electric circuit.

Sometimes when things run slower, you can hear the issue better. It's like a wheel out of balance on your car.. you can only feel it at certain speeds go faster or slower by a bit and the resonance goes away.

Fix the shimming.

Then fix the wiring.

So does toronto airsoft have crappy gun docs or something?

a spring change is a spring change... not a shim job and a spring change. IF the shimming was untouched, factory shimming isn't that great from most manufacturers.

After hearing it in the video... try adjusting your motor height up and down. It's sounding like high pitched pinion/bevel meshing. If you can't get the higher pitched whine out then it needs a shim job.

As you adjust the motor height up or down the cycle will get higher or lower pitched until it starts to get higher again or if you go too low you'll get a bit of a grind as the pinion leaves the bevel gear entirely. You want to find the quietest pitch that is in the middle.

Also if you orient the gearbox so it's on its left side and shoot a few cycles vs right side vs normal shooting orientation, does the pitch change at all? If it changes without changing the motor height, then the shimming is too loose and the relationship between the 3 changes as the gear facess start resting on each other.

If the pitch doesnt' change before or after messing with the motor height, then the shimming is likely too tight. Gears are generally shimmed loose from factory.

ding ding ding ding you should buy the lottery

jordan was right on the money on this one

http://i62.tinypic.com/zj6mhv.jpg

I had previously fucked up shimming and did the method where you get everything as low as possible, instead of adhering to the pinion-bevel method.

As well, it wasn't TA's fault for this. I had only asked them to do a job that I failed to do. I only asked them to install the spring and that was only because I had spent 10 hours (no joke) overnight fiddling with the damn trigger assembly.

After getting 2 extra sets of hands, I managed to put back everything after 1.6 hours, it sounds much better but I'm not going to invest another 12 hours into reshimming and fixing anything inside until it breaks.

Also, there happens to be some movement in the motor case, maybe 5 mm's worth that can make a little sound after each trigger pull. Now can anyone tell me if that is normal?

I'll post some sound clips later tomorrow.

the g36 motor cage is weak. The lip under the pinion on the motor side where the spring sits in is not very strong or deep what can end up happening is the lip can break or the motor can just move side to side very easily. The only way to fix it is the cnc aluminum g36 motor cage. The pot metal ones are all shitty.

Also that pinion is not happy.

V3s when shimmed too low at the bevel will just wreck the pinion. If you've shimmed it as low as you can go then there's your reason things aren't sounding happy. Bevel to pinion is the proper way to ensure all your gears are happy. Shimming just the gearbox without taking the pinion into account just means you'll strip a bevel or the pinion.

So i did it bevel-pinion this time...

It sounds... better?

http://youtu.be/N_wrMCXbVnQ

still hearing some higher frequency gear whine suggesting something is tight.

Trying to find a video of a stock aeg shimmed properly lol... it's harder than you think.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfZfB_90tCo

It's a v2 but you can hear the difference. All you hear is just the motor with a bit of gear noise. This gun probably has a sorbo pad which is the dull thud when the pistion hits the cylinder head.

Also try taking the video farther from the gun in a room with less hard surfaces... like carpet.


This was mine before a better spring (it double cycles in semi because of a worn out spring)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hC_qsyBE6j4

It's harder to hear the motor/gears because it's shorter gears with a neo motor and 11.1V lipo but for that split second you can hear the motor wind up, there's no whine or howl from the gears. But this video was filmed in my basement with the camera about 2 feet away on my work bench which is bare wood with wood wall, so it sounds a lot louder than it does in person.

I would re-shim it but considering how it took me 2 hours to put it back together with 2 extra sets of hands I think I can live with it for now.

Aside from shimming, any suggestions on a workaround to the wiring resistance? I read that the stock JG fuses are bad but I'm not sure if that's the cause for the difference in sound.

I explained why there's different sounds. More resistance means less power getting through so it's slower. Only rewiring with fresh wire to eliminate the extra connector and removing the fuse will restore full power to the motor.

I've done everything right from pinion to bevel shimming where if i stick in the motor it doesn't push the bevel up but leave a hairline of play for down movement, and shim everything to that.

The only thing I haven't touched is the motor height which is adjusted by an Allen key that is so small my sets don't come in that variety. So far it seems to be a fraction of a mm lower than optimal height...

(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻)

http://youtu.be/u_8kW8hX4hc

It's often hard to tell how a gun sounds through a video because different microphones pick up different degrees of screechiness. When you tried to shim it, did you test shimming with every gearbox screw in?

In my experience stock JG G36s sound pretty decent despite the non existent stock shim job.

I guess it's like trying to fix a car problem by describing the sound!

I tried with every screw in including the motor cage and even the tappet plate. I actually had to remove shims because the tappet place was pressing down on the sector gear and made it too tight.