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-   -   G36c problems (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=19750)

Zekk05 January 14th, 2006 17:41

G36c problems
 
I just received my new G36c a while ago, (my first AEG) so naturally Im not too familiar with the problems that one might encounter.

However,
after charging and loading a battery, loading up a mag, flippin the safety and pulling the trigger... all I hear is a very very feint clicking sound and thats it. I pull the trigger, and when it hits a certain point (probably the point at which the BB would be fired) I just hear / feel a click inside the gun and nothing happens. The guns never been fired before (in my possession).

I think it could merely be a blown fuse somewheres in the AEG? I dont have the tools to test the fuses at this time, so I cant really be sure. Any help would be appreciated. :)

Kid January 14th, 2006 17:44

Check the fuse and the motor connections. Just wondering... to be sure, not that I'm making assumptions, but what brand is your rifle? TM? CA? other?

Zekk05 January 14th, 2006 17:46

was just about to eidt the post adding that. its a TM.

one other thing i forgot to mention as well: after about 10 minutes the battery was getting quite hot, progressivly got hotter.

Kampfer January 14th, 2006 18:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zekk05
was just about to eidt the post adding that. its a TM.

one other thing i forgot to mention as well: after about 10 minutes the battery was getting quite hot, progressivly got hotter.

after 10 minutes as in after plugging in the battery and do nothing or as in holding the trigger down for 10 minutes?

Q: what kind of battery? and how long have you had it.
Q: Is your AEG upgraded?


The fuse is inside the battery compartment and you shouldn't need anything to test it. Check your manual. You can visually check if your fuse is blown.

Zekk05 January 14th, 2006 18:12

10 minutes of letting it sit there, it heated up.

Battery: McNair1200 mAh, ni-mh rechargable battery (8.4 v) (brand new)
Gun: stock

Fuse doesnt look to be blown, but Im not well educated in that field, so for all I know, it could be.

Digital_Assasin January 14th, 2006 18:28

Something is seriously wrong with the wiring then. Take the battery out and take the gun to a gundoctor or someone that is familiar with AEGs and have them look at the wiring.

Was the G36C new or 2nd hand?

Kampfer January 14th, 2006 18:31

So your batter just heat up on it's own. (before pluging it into your gun.)
Look around / borrow another battery from a friend.

Q: Does your charger charge nimh batteries?

If your motor makes a click when you pull your trigger then your fuse and wires are fine.

Quote:

I pull the trigger, and when it hits a certain point (probably the point at which the BB would be fired) I just hear / feel a click inside the gun and nothing happens.
So your gun cycles. it just doesn't have the power to cycle completely. Your piston has been compressed and will require more Amperage to get things moving again. Use a ni-cad / other 9.6v battery to push through the cycle.

Zekk05 January 14th, 2006 18:53

- new gun straight from Rangers.
- charger does charge nimh batteries

gundoctor.. curses. means waiting more before I can shoot the cat.. i mean, yaah :(

tomsoderman January 14th, 2006 20:04

why dont you send it back to rangers. I am sure they would fix it for free if the gun didnt work out of the box

Zekk05 January 14th, 2006 20:07

I will email them, but the problem is that ive had the gun for a month already. The charger for the batteries just took forever to come in.

Mantelope January 14th, 2006 20:23

If it's a new gun, chances are your battery is the wrong polarity. If it's getting hot, TAKE YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER. Hot means bad means damage.

Zekk05 January 14th, 2006 20:59

- finger wasnt on the trigger. it was sitting there and just getting hot. and as soon as i felt that it was getting pretty warm, i removed it.

mcguyver January 14th, 2006 21:10

that mean's you have a parisitic current draw somewhere in the gun and it's a big one too (heat means lots of draw). the only place where exposed wiring has contact points is at the battery terminal connections and at the motor. the switch has both "+" connections, so it's not likely there. you may have chafed insulation where the wiring routes in/thru the mechbox and causing the "+" conductor to make contact with the "-" conductor. this would also cause your problem. carefully inspect all your visible wiring to see if the insulation is intact with no cuts or exposed conductors. if everything is ok then your problem must be internal. as your motor attempts to turn (the clicking sound you hear) your problem is not likely there as your motor is getting some voltage. if the short was there your motor would get nothing. as for an internal problem, have someone with some experience look at it for you.

Duff January 14th, 2006 21:16

if the battery was too much draw would the fuse not blow?

mcguyver January 14th, 2006 21:46

not if the draw was less than 15 amps. a small chafe in a wire can lead to a small contact point with enough resistance to cause a battery to discharge significant current without blowing a fuse. a discharge like the one above may be only 3 or 4 amps, enough to heat the battery, but not enough to blow a fuse.


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