Replacing Motor Gear
 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=10870
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=10873

For those who have experience removing and replacing the motor gear what tools and technique do you use?

I bought a gear puller for R/C cars from my local hobby shop. It cost me $15 and I've used it about 10 times now or so.

To re-install the gear, I made a little jig with a pin protruding from it and I rest the motor shaft on it while I tap the gear on with a hammer. That way, you won't break the end bells of the motor as significant force is required to install the new gear.

But I'm all for using the correct tools, but just never got around to ordering them.

thanks McGuyver, if you are a really big Mcguyver fan
http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56794/
http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56793/
http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56792/

Here is what I did
 

ASC Link
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...=pinion+puller

Those are the tools I use, but I find the setting tool just a bit too short to do long shank motors. You have to use the plates to carefully press manually for a bit to set the gear in place, then thread in the screws, a turn or so on each side, until the gear bottoms out. Like Mac, I haven't got around to getting the porper tools as in longer screws.

I put a vise grip around my old gear and used a small punch to punch out the shaft thru the gear.

To install the new gear all I did was lightly tapped it with a hammer.

For those who might say I was stupid to do this, save your breath because I had no access to a gear puller or a gun doctor at the time.

And it is still running great to this day.

It was on my TM MP5 SD5.

I did the same , only I heated the gear to make it easer. When it came time to put it back togeter I put the motor in the freezer for 30 minutes and heated the gear lightly, press fit! Works for me!

HAHAHAHHAHA

sorry... just that the "tool" from WGC.....almost 40$ US plus shipping.

Here is the best thing.... cost half the price... works like a charm.

http://www.gwsus.com/english/product/other/gp.htm

You can go to any hobbyshop and ask them for the standard version.

to put it back, the hammer trick is fine. the pinion won't go in wrong anyways. Just make sure you start it straight.... and that the other end of the motor shaft sits on something hard.

Yeah, one of our local player bought one thinking that. It broke in half without budging the gear. It's no where near strong enough to pull an AEG gear off the shaft.

ah well...

not tried yet since I have not changed my motor.

I do know that it took out a steel pinion hot press fitted on the shaft when cold. There is a way to use it to prevent damage to the tool.... but still I agree that brass is not the best material to use for that kind of tool.

Or you could just go to a superior Classic Army replacement motor where the pinion gear is secured via a set screw.

Seriously, CA motors are in fact better than TM. The TM motors are built to be completely non-user servicable with those tabs bent in to keep the end bell in place. On the CA you can remove it with two screws. The CA motor also has bearings in it - FOUR on the long model - versus none for the TM. It's still not as good as a Systema or other high performance motor, but if you're interested in motor maintenance the CA is an excellent piece of equipment.

I can post some figures if you want about efficiency increases after lathing the commutator and soldering the brush braids.

they are compatible with TM gears?

Fully. Just make sure you get the correct length for your gun and they should be a drop-in replacement.

Efficiency increases? COOL, can you show us how? Do you have pictures showing how to do it?

unless you have a high quality com lathe, it is useless for you to know.

A commutator would need to be cut every 2 battery packs to stay efficient, and the brushes changed at the same time.

Then break-in the new brushes....will be good for an other 2 packs.
It is good for R/C cars racing, but for airsoft.....

Only thing is that bearings are always good, so you better go with the CA motor then....wich makes me think about it...

I might end-up having a TM motor to wind....just to make a kick ass powerfull motor.

*edit* soldering the brushes will defenitly help though. I will do it tomorrow while I am building my MOSFET switch bridge.... might get about 5 RPS just with that.