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-   -   Very strange G36 pistol grip electrical glitch (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=86137)

theguy July 10th, 2009 20:57

Very strange G36 pistol grip electrical glitch
 
Well, i have been trying sort this one out for a few days now. I recently re-wired my JG G36. When i installed my new switch assembly, there were a few glitches, but i got it all worked out.

Halfway though a game last Tuesday it stopped working, i assumed that th battery had died, and as i only brought one with me that day, used my GBB for the rest of the night.

When i got home, i tried charging the battery, with no luck.

So, heres my problem. with the mechbox removed from the pistol grip/lower reciver, it works fine. When i put it back in, it doesn't. My first guess was that there were some wired getting pinched on odd angles, so i tried moving them around, with no avail. Finally, i got fed up, removed the base-plate from the bottom of the pistol grip and tried to connect the motor through the bottom, so no wires were running through the grip. Still didn't work.

This baffles me, and all of what i thought i knew about electronics, anyone have any ideas what might be up? I can post pics/vidoes if that would help.

Thanks guys,
-Ben

kalnaren July 10th, 2009 21:04

Is the battery on your G36 connected through an addition length of wire with the fuse on it? On the CA36, this was a piece of wire about 6" long that plugged into the wires from the mechbox on one end and the battery on the other.

theguy July 10th, 2009 21:09

You mean the length of wire that runs through the barrel assembly?

No, I am plugging the battery directly into the mechbox.

theguy July 11th, 2009 11:59

Bump? Anyone?

Sorry for the early bump but i really need to get this working by the end of the weekend...

DarkAngel July 11th, 2009 12:42

Take an ohm meter and find out the source of your problem. Sorry but we cant do that over the forums. They are a good investment and usually a cheap one goes for 20 bucks at home depot

ybrik July 11th, 2009 15:57

Check for continuity:
Red wire:
-Put one probe of a VOM (Volt-Ohm-Milliameter) on the red wire of battery connector, and the other one the motor terminal.
-Press the trigger, there should be a continuity.
-If not, there's a problem.

Black wire:
-Same as above, only thing is you don't have to have to press the trigger to check its continuity.

You might also want to inspect the wires for strip along its length. It could also be shorted on the gearbox, check wirings on switch assembly.

theguy July 11th, 2009 16:31

Hmm, okay, ill pick up a VOM, i think my dad might have one somewhere...

As for the wiring and trigger contacts? They all look good to me...

deep in the bush July 11th, 2009 17:23

I had same issue then replaced the trigger assembly
 
I checked all wiring and it turned out to be a dirty little connector inside the trigger assembly.

It can also be the wires getting pinched in the handle as you reload. Make sure the wires are in the correct grooves in the handle above the motor. There are two small gaps for the wire to run through.

I hope this helps too.

theguy July 11th, 2009 17:27

Yeah, i see those grooves. The reason i dont think that there is an issue with the connectors is that when the mechbox is out of the lower, it works just fine. When i slide it back in, there is a definate point where it stops working, about right as the trigger passes through its hole in the reciver. When i move the mechbox back up an inch, still half in the lower, it works fine.

Same thing, even with it connected through the botom of the pistol grip.

Gah!

Kos-Mos July 11th, 2009 17:58

You can have a partially broken wire. Basically, it would be the insulation that hold the connection. When you fit the mechbox in the receiver, the insulation moves and disconnect the wires.

Check for a weak/cold solder too. Sometimes they will "stick" to the metal tab, but no electric connection is present. This can be detected by gently moving the wires close to the solder point. If it detaches, there is the issue. Also, cold solders are usually a dull white/pale gray instead of shiny.

theguy July 11th, 2009 18:01

Hmm, okay, ill double check the sodder points. I'm thinking that the most likely spot for there to be an issue is with the motor connectors.

theguy July 11th, 2009 22:13

UPDATE:


This... is... so... wierd.


I completly removed my entire motor cage from the botom of my gun.

So, I am just firing the motor, but nothing inside the gearbox actually moves when i pull the trigger. When the motor is removed, and placed about a foot away from the lower reciver and the rest of the mechbox, it fires perfectly fine. When i start to slide the top half of the mechbox into the lower reciver, while still holding the trigger, the motor just keeps spinning. When i get the mechbox about 80% into the grip, the motor suddently stops, even though there is no change in the wiring. move the mechbox back up a few centimeters and the motor kicks back in.

I'll post pics in a second.

Man... im totally baffled.

Mikhail July 11th, 2009 22:18

Sounds like broken connection at or after the motor electrical points...try flexing the wires going to it...see if you can cause it OUT of the grip

theguy July 11th, 2009 22:20

i think your misunderstanding me.

At this point, the motor isnt connected to the mechbox, it is out of the grip

No wires at all are inside the grip right now! in fact, no wiring or connectors are in contact with the lower reciver at all

Mikhail July 11th, 2009 22:24

Ah yes....so loose connections at the trigger switch then? Leave it out of the lower, with the switch held on, and flex the electrical wires to see when the motor stops...sounds like there is a flexed break in the external wires...or flex AT the trigger switch is causing an interruption.


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