[ILLusion]

What is this slide catch that you're using? If it's stock, there should be no reason why it wouldn't fit the hole in the hop up chamber.

The original rear sight *should* fit... I can't tell you where to fix if you're not identifying the specific areas that aren't fitting. There are a number of areas that *may* require fitment when it comes to Shooters Design slides and the rear sight.

Regarding no drill scope mounts, there aren't many left available. I'm only aware of drill in mounts at this point. Most drill-less mounts are sold out everywhere.

The "sear spring" or also called the "leaf spring" (what you're calling the "trigger reaction pin"), if you want to make the trigger react faster, you'll need to identify what actions you want to increase speed.

There are two major characteristics responsible for trigger response: Trigger Pull Length, and Trigger Weight.
This can be further broken down in to six minor characteristics that combine together to affect the two major characteristics above, and each of these minor characteristics need to be looked at in order to understand how to speed up trigger response time:

1) Pre-pull take up: This refers to the distance you need to pull the trigger before you get to the release stage that will cause the sear to disconnect from the hammer hooks. This is not adjusted via the leaf spring, but rather, by pulling back the distance of the trigger stirrup either by adding material to the front of it, or by adding material to the back of it where the sear disconnect lever contacts. In essence, you want to remove as much of the initial take up as you can from the trigger pull. Some shooters prefer to have it there, I do not. To me, it's wasted pull distance, but that's me. Individual shooters have individual preferences. Many shooters like to keep the take up there as a safety feature to prevent accidental discharge, as the second stage of pulling the trigger means you are releasing the sear from the hammer hooks. There is a balance on how much to take up. Too much, and the sear may not safely engage the hammer (resulting in unintentional full auto fire), OR, the sear disconnect lever won't have enough room to do its job.

2) Trigger pull backslop: This refers to the distance the trigger is allowed to continue pulling after the hammer hooks break from the sear. This is generally done via adjustable triggers that have a set screw in them. By lengthening this screw in to the pistol grip, it restricts how far back the trigger can be pulled. Too little, and there will be a lot of travel after the hammer breaks. Too much, and you won't be able to break the hammer. Again, the point is to remove unnecessary trigger travel distance.

3) Stage-2 Pull: This refers to the second stage of the pull on pistols like this. This is the definitive action that causes the sear to move and allow the hammer to break free. Only highly experienced 'smiths should be altering the stage of this pull, as an incorrectly angled hook can cause a very dangerous pistol that may result in accidental discharges from something as simple as bumping the pistol, dropping it, or it can even result in unintentional full auto fire. A hook that has been shortened too much can also do this if the angles are not correct. I won't go in to detail on how this is done, as I don't want people to start messing around with guns and making them unsafe. But if you understand what I'm saying thus far, then you should have the knowledge to change this characteristic.

Combined together, the above three minor characteristics will affect the length of the overall trigger pull. Experienced 'smiths can create a trigger pull that is less than 1mm in length. That'd be like tapping on an electronic switch.


4) Contact friction: This refers to the amount of friction between all moving parts responsible for the release of the hammer when a trigger is pulled. Experienced smiths can go further and polish all contact surfaces, such as the sear, hook, disconnect lever, trigger stirrup, trigger, and even grip area where the trigger/stirrup contacts. The smoother the surfaces that move against each other, the less effort, energy, and thus; weight will be required to pull the trigger.

5) Trigger reset time: This refers to how fast the trigger springs back forward when you release weight on it. This is affected by the RIGHT most prong of the leaf spring. The further forward you have this prong, the faster the trigger will reset to the original condition. However, pushing it forward with greater weight will also mean an increased trigger pull weight. It is up to the tuner/'smith/shooter to decide where your balance is with this. If all movement points are extremely smooth and parts move effortlessly, not much weight will be needed to push the trigger back to reset.

6) Sear reset time: This refers to how fast the sear is able to safely and reliably catch the hammer when the slide blows back to cycle the next round. The shorter the hammer hooks are made, the faster and stiffer a sear must engage the hammer to avoid any accidental discharge. This is adjusted via the MIDDLE prong of the leaf spring. Bending it forward will increase the speed and tension the sear will engage the hammer hooks. However, pushing it forward with greater weight will also mean an increased trigger pull weight, as more effort will be required to break the sear clean. It is up to the tuner/'smith/shooter to decide where your balance is with this. If all movement points are extremely smooth and parts move effortlessly, not much weight will be needed to push the sear to engage the hammer hooks.

Combined together, the above three minor characteristics will affect the weight of the overall trigger pull. Experienced 'smiths can create a trigger pull that requires less than half a pound to break the hammer. Many 'smiths prefer not to make triggers this light, and you will almost NEVER find a duty/carry pistol with a trigger pull this light for safety reasons. This is dangerous, and should only be done by experienced 'smiths. Most duty pistols have a factory setting that is 4 pounds or heavier. Airsoft is significantly lighter than that.


Whenever doing any hammer work, PLEASE test fire many times WITHOUT ammunition loaded to ensure safety. The last thing I need is people accidentally discharging in safe zones because I put up information on how to make their gun "race ready." If anything, it could get you disqualified from a match quickly, if you do this type of work haphazardly.