Quote:
Originally Posted by suzenonest
Even with a fully charged 9.6 NiMh battery, after 5 min of shooting, there's not enough juice left to fully pull back the piston. After some research, I'm concluding it's because this spring is shooting closer to 440-450 fps.
So i'm thinking to either swap back to original spring, which was only shooting approx.360-370fps, or get a stronger battery/motor.
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How's your shimming?
Do you know how much charge your battery actually holds? Ferrous magnet motors are not suited for pulling high-powered springs and are remarkably inefficient at doing so. You're most likely over-drawing from your battery. You basically answered your own question: Consider a stronger battery and/or motor. Also, you may look at using a FET and/or upgrade your wiring to increase your electrical efficiency.
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzenonest
I'm also thinking about going back to the stock piston head/cylinder head + spacer, since I've been reading that the silent piston head/cylinder head is just a gimmick, and I cant have corrected AoE with the silent combo.
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You can get a sorbo for silent piston heads.
http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...products_id=10
Alternatively there are other methods of correcting AoE (plastic washers on your piston head)
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzenonest
I've also read of other mods, like shaving the tappet plate to allow the air seal nozzle to seat farther in the hop up.
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How's your air seal in the first place between nozzle and hop rubber? If your fps is consistent and is hovering around your rated FPS, then this mod is unnecessary.
If you don't own a chrony and aren't able to test all of the changes I'm talking about, then this discussion is moot. Shot-to-shot consistency is the key to accuracy and range. If you can't stabilize the FPS of BBs coming out of the gun with zero hop-up, how do you expect to be able to test consistency of hop-up rubbers? All of my personal AEGs have a maximum variance of +/- 2fps (most of them 1fps), a "good" build should not swing by more than 3fps either way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzenonest
it would be nice to get more range out of this gun. Otherwise I'd rather play a gun that isnt so long lol
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There have been a lot of discussions about increasing overall range, most suggestions have been to:
* Establish a consistent perfect seal starting from your piston head o-ring all the way to your hop rubber
* Get a better hop rubber (R-hop, REAPS, PDI W Hold, etc.)
* Use heavier ammo (.3g+ BB)
* Increase FPS (see below)
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzenonest
it would be nice to get more range out of this gun. Otherwise I'd rather play a gun that isnt so long lol
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I hate to beat a dead horse but a long gun (>455mm) != increased range. AK owners have known for ages that 455mm length barrels are the most efficient length barrel out there and watched as Armalite fanboys ran out to buy 509, 590, and 650mm length barrels because they thought 363mm wasn't long enough.
High FPS also does not = increased range either. Time to target is obviously longer and the shots seem to "float" to their target but my 400fps, 363mm R-hopped M4 outranges my much higher-powered 509mm "DMR" noticeably. We can get into a discussion about joules of energy upon target impact when using a 400fps gun vs 450+fps gun at 250 feet and whether the target will "feel" the shots at such extreme ranges, but I think that's outside of the scope of this topic.