Quote:
Originally Posted by turok_t
Michael,
I can answer some of your questions:
From my experience, Guarder has two kinds of hammer springs: One ... is sold with the recoil rod/spring as shown here:
I believe this to be very accurate, and i think your "guess" is correct in the below photo. THANK YOU!!
Based on your pictures, this is my guess:
2) have you ever found doubling up a recoil spring to be beneficial? this is simply out of curiosity.
Yes, you can do this to increase the ROF by using a second stage spring in series with your primary recoil spring. Or you can use a full length recoil spring with a 1/2 to 1/3 of another spring. However, you will need the plastic "C" clip to fit between the springs. The more springs you put, the more you short stroke the gun will be. However, if you put too much, your slide will not lock when the magazine is empty, and you may have issues chamber the next round. You can use one of the aftermarket upgrade guide rods (Shooters Design, Guarder) and use two springs fitted between the "C" clip.
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i am sorry i did not mention that i have a DRS from the factory (all my questions are almost ALWAYS based solely on a G26/G27 as i like subcompacts (see my sig), and of course have upgraded it to a Guarder Stainless/Brass guide rod assembly, and have a polished factory unit as well. i just took this pic to illustrate (i'm terribly visual as a whole, so sorry for all the pics.)
my question was based on an idea of slide return: i don't so much care about the strength of the front screw post on the frame, nor am i using anything for competition of any sort. i simply plink, and build these for my son. he loves them, and i love tinkering: win win if you ask me!
back to the reason for my question: i LOVE a HARD HITTING slide as it returns to battery. Having owned many a RS (G26, G27, PPS 9mm, PT111 Mil Pro 3rd gen, XD sub compact 9, Hi Point C9, SR9c, etc) one of my all time favorite features of a side arm is the positive, heavy THUD of a slide returning into battery after loading, releasing the slide lock, etc.
now, that does certainly add an amount of vanity to my firearm experience, but the real reason is the forward motion of a slide can actually cause a person to drop a pistol easily, as the natural purchase on said pistol is less monitored by (let's just say, a 10 yr old child learning proper firearm control and safety) the user as recoil is absorbed by a stronger hold on the grip. (i hope this makes sense)
with all that being said, i would like this pistol to INCREASE the forward "COIL" (if RE- Coil is backward movement, i'll use COIL as forward... makes sense to me lol) thus my asking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e-luder
3) have you ever fitted an aluminum BBH and consequent Piston Head from a G17 into the smaller G26 counterpart? this is something i have always pondered.
Yes, A Glock 17 piston head should fit the G26.
Remember, the G26 was the father of the Marui Glocks. The Glock 17 was based on this design.
It like how the KSC Glocks were the very first iteration of the System 7...uhh...system(?). lol.
I think the only discernable difference in their piston head designs were that a G26 used the "piston cup" rather then the more modern piston head with the o-ring seal.
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wonderful. i have the piston head with O-Ring installed you speak of, of course i still have the stock, and guarder versions of the "cup" as well. (these seam to have WAY too narrow a diameter to properly seal the Airsoft Surgeon loading nozzle/BBU. so i never use the stock cup.)
what intrigues me is the length of the head on the G17 aluminum piston position. see the RED section here....
now, this to me fills the rear of the BBH better than what the G26 uses, in turn leaving less OPEN space, and therefore no room for air to go aside from FORWARD to the BB, as well as pushing the BBH (and therefore slide) back with more force. in theory, this could increase not only FPS, but also felt recoil and coil as mentioned above. another win win if my theory is correct.
oh, one more thing that JUST HAPPENED....
i was lucky enough to get my slide stuck on the frame. yeah, it appears the hammer/sear are in the upright position, making the slide stuck on. this just occurred as i was taking the photo above.
so now i have to figure out what really made this happen, get it apart, and fix the issue. all this for a darn pic. FML.