Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokanee
I would like to know how large the pile of gold is you sleep on at night that you are talking about having custom gears manufactured and tempered to boot?
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Anyone can temper a metal so long as it's not alloy. Then it gets expensive, there is frequencies involved, and usually some extra steps to ensure the product keeps it shape, and is on the cusp of fusion where the material breaks down into liquid state.
To fabricate a gear box, all it takes is a good knowledge of welding, measurements, and machining. Knowing the basics for an electrical circuit doesn't hurt either, and well what you can't make.(gears) You buy
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What I meant by build or make a gear box. Is I will have to assemble a gear box for my Masada (upgrade from the A&K to something more reliable and efficient), while getting measurements for a current standard V2 Gearbox. There will be nothing custom about it other then maybe some AoE and what pieces I decide to use, Lonex, madbull, Hurricane etc, etc. As I understand the value of precise measurements rather then a used/worn measurement.
Which, can benefit those that do maintenance on there AEG's. As this brings me to my first pieces I am going to pick up.
Update 1:
As I have done some additional hunting for this project, I have managed to pick up a fully assembled box to really get the standard sizes. I switched from an E&C Box to Army Force, as I find the quality for the shell is up, however the Spring guide IMO isn't, I will get the standards form this box to start the drafting part of the project. Which will also give me a base to start messing around with some custom ideas in CAD.
From the build side of the project I am going to start piecing together a strong gear box. Again, I am not going for RoF world records or Highest FPS. I am going for something that's provides long battery life/time, that can be used for either in or outdoor games and is reliable and robust.
Again, it has the simplicity like Lonex. It fits 8mm bearing/bushings and changing wiring layouts. It's also a QD gear box, which means the spring can be changed to suite the game requirements. It also doesn't cost 108$ and isn't forged and then CNC machined, which is a lot of time and money and can weaken some parts depending on how the product is molded and then milled, thus this keeps the price down.
Update 2:
So, I picked up these two little numbers, for the gear box. Now, I am measuring things out off of the original parts from the complete gear box that I have received. Which is an Army One Transform Gear Box. I am changing things as I see the need to, making tolerances tighter and parts more efficient to utilize the full KE of the spring. As well as adding a bearing to the Back of the piston head like many other companies have done. Other things for example, like the PX Piston/Ram. I will be measuring, because I like the overall design. Which is something I do approve of and is things I would do myself to reduce friction. Sadly theirs is polymer. Mine would be teflon.
I am a firm believer of full metal internals, however there are a few pieces “I” feel should be left as plastic.
The air nozzle, which pushes bbs in to the hop-up/chamber of the airsoft rifle. The tapper plate, as this allows the gear box to cycle and act as a good mid ground if there ever is a fatal error inside the gear box or out. The selector plate as this allow almost no current to pass, causing a short and the trigger components for similar reasons like the selector plate.
Knowing that, it should be very simple to figure out what I would like to see made out of metal.
On a side note, I am aware that some pieces like the piston ram should be made out of light materials as this allows faster response from the spring and easier friction on the slides. I like the ideas of rams like the Madbull PX, and other Hybrid Plastic rams with metal teeth, but at the end of the day much like a heavier projectile, it will have more KE at the end of the compression, and expansion of the spring.
And much like a car cylinder, metal will force air out of chamber creating higher compression in tighter gaps, through the nozzle and make that bb fly.