[lurkingknight]

toptechs are a bit of a pain in the ass when it comes to doing work inside the gearbox. I don't like them because of the blowback system adds a fair amount of complexity to taking the gun apart.

the CMs are entry level, and the only thing that really separates the toptechs vs everything else is the unique blowback gearbox. All other g&gs use the same gearbox and are compatible with all aftermarket parts, whereas the toptech has parts in the blowback system and gearbox shell itself that are proprietary to g&g and there are no aftermarket replacements for those. CMs have plastic receivers while the other lines use cast metal receivers.

Some of the newer g&g guns of the non toptech lines have mosfets built in. They're ok for stock and close to stock use but hey're not great for going nuts with upgrades.

From an aesthetic point of view, pick what you want, from a budget view, the CM is a very reliable starter gun that is mechanically identical to the other non toptech guns and leaves budget for other things. If you want metal bodies the TR line is the higher end without getting into the complicated blowback system.

As a gun tech, I would pick the simplest option mechanically and install my own mosfet that is speced to take higher end upgrades and replace things as they are needed when they break.

I'm not sure if all g&gs are being built with their crappy mosfets or not, but your best bet if you want a CM is to look for the older ones without mosfets. Not having one just means the trigger contacts may burn up or carbonize from the arcing but they should last a year or two. There is a field local to me that uses CMs as rental guns and they've lasted a whole year of gaming every weekend.

in the 400~+ price range VFC would be a better choice in terms of overall quality. The gearbox shells in vfcs are much nicer.


One more thing I will add is that most factory installed mosfets are specced pretty low and can barely handle the amperage spiking in airsoft guns which is why they burn out. Their constant draw might be just barely good enough to meet the requirement, but the initial spike when you pull the trigger can be 4-5x the amp draw of what it ends up settling down to as a constant draw.