Airsoft Canada - View Single Post - Ares L85A2 overhaul- what to expect?

ThunderCactus · July 26th, 2016, 13:01

UGH post got deleted by login timeout. So annoying.
Anyway, didn't see this post come up till now, sorry for not replying earlier.

Google search for a list of what's proprietary in the ARES mechbox. Ideally you don't want to buy the same plate with the same problems.

Always upgrade broken parts. If they broke, it's usually because they're crap.
Metal is not an ideal material for an air nozzle, they can scuff the BB in loading, affecting accuracy. Just about every aftermarket company makes a plastic air nozzle with an O-ring.
If the cylinder head is metal, it should be fine. If it's plastic, upgrade it.
Just about ever piston head out there is vented. The vents are on the piston head face, which allow air to rush in and press the O-ring against the cylinder wall causing a dynamic seal. When the piston is moving back, there's no seal, so the O-ring doesn't drag on the walls. The alternative is an UNvented piston head, which maintains a static seal, but increases wear on the O-ring, and can be unreliable.
Before you ask, BB suckback is a RARE symptom of another problem, but never happens under normal circumstance.

Bearings are usually on the back of the piston and spring guide. Springs torsion as they compress, so the bearings are there to allow it to twist freely. Allegedly this increases shot to shot consistency, but more practically it further compresses the spring netting an extra 10-15fps.

Most important things for a new gun; shim the gears properly, do a compression check and replace any parts to fix leaks, and upgrade the hop rubber.
Stock barrels CAN be okay, just make sure it's not bent (just roll the barrel on a flat surface) or has a bad finish inside.
Shimming the gears will reduce noise and wear, and can increase battery efficiency.
Achieving perfect compression will increase shot to shot consistency (sometimes drastically) and allow you to get the most power out of your spring (efficiency).
And the hop rubber is the largest contributor to range and accuracy. Stock rubbers are most generally crap. Flat hop and Rhop are the best, but you can just use a maple leaf or firefly rubber and get consistent 200ft accuracy.

Use the heaviest ammo you can without loosing range for the best range and accuracy. So if you're shooting around 400fps, you'll probably want to run .28s
And another common mistake; DO NOT use silicone oil to clean the barrel. Use a degreaser. The BB ideally doesn't touch the barrel as it's travelling through it, so it doesn't need to be lubricated. And a thin film of silicone will only result in attracting more dust and dirt.

Use a light film of synthetic grease on the cylinder. Too much grease will cause compression issues and barrel fouling. And greases containing petroleum will eat the O-ring (as most companies don't use synthetic Orings).

Firing the gun without a spring in, although HIGHLY not recommended, doesn't always result in damage. The main gear is sectored, and designed to release the piston at the rear position. So without the spring, the gear will simply shoot the piston to the back, then spin freely. Damage from this will usually be on the release tooth.

July 26th, 2016, 13:01	#7
ThunderCactus Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture! Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2007	UGH post got deleted by login timeout. So annoying. Anyway, didn't see this post come up till now, sorry for not replying earlier. Google search for a list of what's proprietary in the ARES mechbox. Ideally you don't want to buy the same plate with the same problems. Always upgrade broken parts. If they broke, it's usually because they're crap. Metal is not an ideal material for an air nozzle, they can scuff the BB in loading, affecting accuracy. Just about every aftermarket company makes a plastic air nozzle with an O-ring. If the cylinder head is metal, it should be fine. If it's plastic, upgrade it. Just about ever piston head out there is vented. The vents are on the piston head face, which allow air to rush in and press the O-ring against the cylinder wall causing a dynamic seal. When the piston is moving back, there's no seal, so the O-ring doesn't drag on the walls. The alternative is an UNvented piston head, which maintains a static seal, but increases wear on the O-ring, and can be unreliable. Before you ask, BB suckback is a RARE symptom of another problem, but never happens under normal circumstance. Bearings are usually on the back of the piston and spring guide. Springs torsion as they compress, so the bearings are there to allow it to twist freely. Allegedly this increases shot to shot consistency, but more practically it further compresses the spring netting an extra 10-15fps. Most important things for a new gun; shim the gears properly, do a compression check and replace any parts to fix leaks, and upgrade the hop rubber. Stock barrels CAN be okay, just make sure it's not bent (just roll the barrel on a flat surface) or has a bad finish inside. Shimming the gears will reduce noise and wear, and can increase battery efficiency. Achieving perfect compression will increase shot to shot consistency (sometimes drastically) and allow you to get the most power out of your spring (efficiency). And the hop rubber is the largest contributor to range and accuracy. Stock rubbers are most generally crap. Flat hop and Rhop are the best, but you can just use a maple leaf or firefly rubber and get consistent 200ft accuracy. Use the heaviest ammo you can without loosing range for the best range and accuracy. So if you're shooting around 400fps, you'll probably want to run .28s And another common mistake; DO NOT use silicone oil to clean the barrel. Use a degreaser. The BB ideally doesn't touch the barrel as it's travelling through it, so it doesn't need to be lubricated. And a thin film of silicone will only result in attracting more dust and dirt. Use a light film of synthetic grease on the cylinder. Too much grease will cause compression issues and barrel fouling. And greases containing petroleum will eat the O-ring (as most companies don't use synthetic Orings). Firing the gun without a spring in, although HIGHLY not recommended, doesn't always result in damage. The main gear is sectored, and designed to release the piston at the rear position. So without the spring, the gear will simply shoot the piston to the back, then spin freely. Damage from this will usually be on the release tooth.