Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderCactus
As far as airsoft motors go: The faster the motor is, the more amperage it needs. If you're using a small stick battery, you're likely not getting enough amperage to the motor, which is causing the voltage to drop. And if that's the case you should stop testing it immediately before your batteries burst into flames.
I've got a setup using a 30k motor and 13:1 gears, and an 1800mah 20-40C lipo couldn't even handle it. By the time the battery got down to 11v, successive shots in semi would make the voltage drop to where the mosfet thought it was dead.
Second, if he sold you a 35k motor knowing you had 14:1 gears, he doesn't know enough to know that's a terrible combination.
People like to go by magnet strength, but it's not the end all be all. Neodymium magnet motors have more torque and more stopping power, but a 28tpa ferrous magnet motor is going to have WAY more torque than a 14tpa neo magnet motor, given the same wattage.
With 14:1s, depending on your battery, you should be running either an 18k or 22k motor.
If you've got small 1200mah 25C stick batteries, 18k
A lot of us running 13:1, 12:1, and even 10:1 gears use the 18k motor.
Lower rate of fire (which we don't care about), but much faster semi auto trigger response.
The only think you need to know about motors over 30k is; don't use them. They're completely pointless.
The higher speed motors date back to the days of everyone using high torque gears like 26:1, when you needed speed.
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Thanks for all that. The motor was for the raider. I just tried it in the 556 to see if it would be slower in there too.
My watt meter says my stock 556 motor pulls 21 amps during full auto. My batteries should be able to give 30 to 50 amps and their internal resistance is really low.
I guess I'll try some 5000mah airplane batteries I have. They will not be the week point. Thanks again, I'll update after the test