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.::RA-Tech WE M4/M16 Steel Bolt Tutorial::.

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Old November 13th, 2012, 20:20   #16
Danke
 
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I just got a recently restocked RA-Tech bolt from airsoftparts.ca. I could not close the receivers. This was the complete bolt with the aluminum nozzle and was installed with the RA-Tech steel trigger pack.

Removed the bolt catch and the receivers closed & the bolt cycled. I made a couple passes with a small sanding wheel on a dremel tool and re-installed the catch. The gun now runs fine. A tiny bit of drag on occasion when you pull the charging handle but it doesn't bind up solid.
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Old November 14th, 2012, 17:02   #17
turok_t
 
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Yup I had to do this every single time when when installing a brand new bolt into the gun. The pointy part on the bolt catch needs to be sandy down
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Old May 1st, 2013, 11:58   #18
pinksoda
 
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Amazing mod! With the newer stock bolts and plus this mod no need to spend $100 for a steel bolt. Plus less strees on the gun when stock. Also you don`t need a dremel for the stock bolt since it easier to file. Thanks for this mod!!! BTW where to get vltor upper?
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Old May 1st, 2013, 22:49   #19
turok_t
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinksoda View Post
Amazing mod! With the newer stock bolts and plus this mod no need to spend $100 for a steel bolt. Plus less strees on the gun when stock. Also you don`t need a dremel for the stock bolt since it easier to file. Thanks for this mod!!! BTW where to get vltor upper?
Its a real steel upper which you can source in canada
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 04:53   #20
pinksoda
 
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Did you have to mod the trigger box to fit?
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 19:03   #21
turok_t
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinksoda View Post
Did you have to mod the trigger box to fit?
yup, look at my thread below:

http://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=122347
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 21:11   #22
MaybeStopCalling
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Alternately you can just mill the cuts into the upper receiver, which is what I did. Came in useful when the plate protecting the valve knocker snapped and I had to replace the screws and the plate.

You may need to do some minor fitment sanding as well... I had to bore out the takedown lugs on the upper to reduce the stress on the lower receiver. It's still snug but at least I can now push the pin out using my finger. Then again I had a receiver from a company known for snug tolerances.
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Old May 3rd, 2013, 21:20   #23
T@NK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Synergy View Post
Alternately you can just mill the cuts into the upper receiver, which is what I did. Came in useful when the plate protecting the valve knocker snapped and I had to replace the screws and the plate.

You may need to do some minor fitment sanding as well... I had to bore out the takedown lugs on the upper to reduce the stress on the lower receiver. It's still snug but at least I can now push the pin out using my finger. Then again I had a receiver from a company known for snug tolerances.
this.
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Old May 5th, 2013, 02:13   #24
turok_t
 
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I decided to mod the plate that houses the valve knocker as I didn't want to risk damaging any RS parts (especially the upper receiver), and besides stock WE parts are more accessible. I could easily manipulate the plate from any angle using a table vice grip and make the necessary relief cuts to accommodate the RS upper receiver. Also, you need to either mod the "wings" on the hop up chamber or the neck of the RS upper since there is only one cut at the 12oclock position. You need to ensure that the hop up chamber does not rotate in the upper receiver or else it will break the front end of the nozzle when it returns to battery.
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Old October 4th, 2017, 17:24   #25
turok_t
 
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all links back up, not sure if RAtech changed the design of their bolts, but tutorial is back up for anyone interested
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