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New to airsoft, a few questions...

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Old March 15th, 2016, 14:39   #31
Curo
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Guys like Thunder, Ricochet, Biorage, Red dot and myself have been doing this for a while, weve seen what works and what doesn't. Fact is playing the role of a sniper isn't terribly useful vs AEGs

If OP wants to play as a sniper then go ahead, but its not the optimal starting point. If he wants to get a G&G its an okay platform, with okay quality control. for every story I hear of someone loving their G&G i hear of one failing in a few weeks.

I rarely ever hear that for VFC, plus allot of the low end G&gs come with allot of plastic internals, subpar grease, piss poor shim jobs and plastic bodies.

a $300 dollar VFC will come with a meh or okay shim job (could probably use a shim or two but nothing catastrophic) , okay grease, stronger internals, and metal externals. Basically your getting what you pay for. In the end, G&G combat machines have made this sport accessible to new players every where, but you get more bang for paying more.

Airsoft is simply like that, the better stuff costs more.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 14:46   #32
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I talked to the guy who AV'd me here (Do that) and followed his advice. Bought nice foot gear, goggles etc then did a long series of trades to end up with a G&G combat machine and a Marui.

Used both, and here's what I'd say.

G&G's are great. Reliable, easy to use. Great starter. Think of it as a nice Corolla.
Nice VFC's, Marui's etc etc are a nicer car. Like a BMW, more expensive, but nicer to drive. Both will still get you from point a to point b. One's just better at it.
From everything I am reading G&G is a great entry level gun that should be pretty dependable. Not anticipating a lot of play unless my group really gets back into it all.

Looking for simplicity and the model I am looking at seems to be a good package with a reliable gun that I could upgrade a bit if I wanted higher FPS. I do not care about how fast it shoots, in reality I would prefer it to be single shot only, would/will never use full auto. Thanks for all the great advice everyone, it is much appreciated!
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Old March 15th, 2016, 16:01   #33
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Originally Posted by wonderings View Post
From everything I am reading G&G is a great entry level gun that should be pretty dependable. Not anticipating a lot of play unless my group really gets back into it all.

Looking for simplicity and the model I am looking at seems to be a good package with a reliable gun that I could upgrade a bit if I wanted higher FPS. I do not care about how fast it shoots, in reality I would prefer it to be single shot only, would/will never use full auto. Thanks for all the great advice everyone, it is much appreciated!

honeslty 360-400fps with .20s is all you need (just up your weight to .25 or .28 for outdoor play) and youll be fine, too much higher and you risk injury and tbh FPS does basically nothing for accuracy.

also thats 400 FPS with .20 gram bbs no 400 fps with .28 gram bbs, there is a huge difference in joules (energy) there.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 16:17   #34
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FPS isn't always a great indication of accuracy.

My Marui fires way slower then my G&G but is more accurate.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 16:20   #35
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Originally Posted by Twelvecarpileup View Post
FPS isn't always a great indication of accuracy.

My Marui fires way slower then my G&G but is more accurate.
Marui = Marui magic.

Their guns just shoot far ootb,.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 16:26   #36
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Marui = Marui magic.

Their guns just shoot far ootb,.
Yep, it's kind of shocking to see. When I first got into it, the first thing I wanted to do was up the FPS of everything close to the limit of my field because I thought it'd be accurate. Talked myself out of it, took in a Marui shooting under 300fps and had no issues with range. Really knocked me out of the FPS mindset.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 19:41   #37
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Hop, barrel, muzzle energy consistency, and BBs make accuracy.
Hop, BBs and muzzle energy make range.
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Old March 16th, 2016, 14:34   #38
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Thats why my only AEG is an old stock marui, never going to upgrade it past the slightly upgraded hop up, thing is 280 fps of laser. Heck I had this DMR setup scar L once that I got tuned down to 320 for a winter indoor season and the thing shot better than most anything.

Heck I got a kill one game with a 140 fps famas (oh airseal leaks) I could shoot ppl an inch from the barrel and theyd still barely feel it. Not to mention you could run faster than the BB after a few feet.

FPS is nice, but isn't the end all to be all. I normally try to keep my guns around 350-370 with .20s cause then they can be used outdoors and in (almost all games alow ballpark 370-380 fps on field now a days.
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Old March 16th, 2016, 17:33   #39
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Originally Posted by Curo View Post
Thats why my only AEG is an old stock marui, never going to upgrade it past the slightly upgraded hop up, thing is 280 fps of laser. Heck I had this DMR setup scar L once that I got tuned down to 320 for a winter indoor season and the thing shot better than most anything.

Heck I got a kill one game with a 140 fps famas (oh airseal leaks) I could shoot ppl an inch from the barrel and theyd still barely feel it. Not to mention you could run faster than the BB after a few feet.

FPS is nice, but isn't the end all to be all. I normally try to keep my guns around 350-370 with .20s cause then they can be used outdoors and in (almost all games alow ballpark 370-380 fps on field now a days.
I once shot a man with a springer TM glock. The one where you have to manually pull back the slide everytime to shoot.

The guy was like "aww come on..." upon realizing what happened, shoulder shrug and head tilted down and everything with disappoint.

Granted it was about 20 feet away. TM's shoot pretty well out of the box.
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Old March 16th, 2016, 19:42   #40
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G&G is cheaper than a marui, already has a metal body, stock internals can handle 380fps, has tougher internals, has better resale value.

The marui is great if you leave it as is, but unfortunately it only excels at filling the niche role of "stock CQB gun".
It hasn't been a good long term investment since you could get a full metal 380fps gun for under $400.
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Old March 17th, 2016, 08:50   #41
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I went to a local store yesterday after work and looked at the G&G CM16. Really surprised at how solid it felt, not sure why I expected them to feel really light and flimsy, but that is what I thought. I am going to go with that gun to start, just shopping around now for the best price.

I guess what I need to know now is what batteries do I need? I see a variety of battery options but no clue what is right for this gun. This is the gun I will be ordering:
https://triggerairsoft.com/shop/GG-CM16-Raider-L.html

this is the charger I would be buying (if it works)
https://triggerairsoft.com/shop/FE-FY2200.html

What do I need for a battery??


Thanks

Last edited by wonderings; March 17th, 2016 at 08:56..
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Old March 17th, 2016, 10:14   #42
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Nice gun you got there! Lots of 'rail estate' too...

I just run a 9.6V nunchuck in my guns. No hassles, works fine, no risk of explosion. Set it and forget it.
So are they pretty universal the batteries? The list I see for batteries is:
LiPo 11.1V
LiPo 7.4V
Ni-MH
Li-ion

No idea what the differences are or even what improvements you get say going from a 7.4V to a higher V.
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Old March 17th, 2016, 10:44   #43
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Li-po's will deliver too much juice for your gun's guts. They're also a bit of nuisance to handle and store. You can't just leave them lying around. They need attention and do pose a burst risk. If you don't need a Li-po, don't bother, really.

I run just ordinary 9.6V Ni-Mh. They have little or no memory, don't care how they're stored, readily available and cheap. If you need more performance, optimize your air system and leave the juice alone. I have a G36 shooting 428fps with a 9.6V Ni-MH and it only has a 110 spring! Make it more efficient...otherwise it's no better than running a big block in a Toyota. No point in having all that power if you can't put it to the ground.
Yah I don't need anything fancy, again just something that works and is dependable and simple. Do most guns come with a battery? It is not listed with the model I am looking at.
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Old March 17th, 2016, 10:59   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wonderings View Post
Yah I don't need anything fancy, again just something that works and is dependable and simple. Do most guns come with a battery? It is not listed with the model I am looking at.
99% of guns do not come with a battery, mainly brands like CYMA, etc do.

Even if they do come with a battery and a charger, it is recommended you toss them ASAP.

You may want to order batteries and a charger from hobbyking though.
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Old March 17th, 2016, 12:18   #45
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Originally Posted by Zeroroaster View Post
Li-po's will deliver too much juice for your gun's guts. They're also a bit of nuisance to handle and store. You can't just leave them lying around. They need attention and do pose a burst risk. If you don't need a Li-po, don't bother, really.

I run just ordinary 9.6V Ni-Mh. They have little or no memory, don't care how they're stored, readily available and cheap. If you need more performance, optimize your air system and leave the juice alone. I have a G36 shooting 428fps with a 9.6V Ni-MH and it only has a 110 spring! Make it more efficient...otherwise it's no better than running a big block in a Toyota. No point in having all that power if you can't put it to the ground.
Current lipos (quality products), are not unstable and are certainly the way to go. Lipos have definately come a long way, but they are light, well balanced, don't get memory, small and work well in colder weather than any others. It's imperative however that you have a good balance charger to go with them.

Hobbyking carries Turnigy-Nanotech lipos for under $10 US a piece and they are extremely solid. Just make sure to order from on the US warehouse option, or else you may be waiting awhile for your order. Also, they carry the IMAX B6 balance charger (as stated above), it's also very reliable and does a great balance charge.
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